Wednesday, October 18, 2017

Before enjoying my Turkish Köy Kahvaltısı near Bodrum, I was introduced to a Turkish mother who sat on a cushion weaving a large carpet with homespun wool.

Her nimble fingers moved quickly across the old wooden loom. She made double knots using different colored yarn, but she had no pattern. Every design she made was done by memory.
Engin Başol, owner of Etrim Hali Carpets located in the small village of Etrim, about 24km from Bodrum, introduced us to his mother, Ümmüham Başol, who was currently weaving the carpet for us. His family roots in the area date back 500 years.

Engin Başol, along with his father, Mehmet, run the Turkish carpet business which is a cooperative made up several local villages enabling women who can weave to sell their rugs. The younger Başol, who spoke English, explained that they are trying to preserve the local traditions such as carpet weaving.

“I feel like it’s a dying art as the younger women want to move to the city and then they marry Bodrum men. They leave the village life behind them,” Engin Başol said.

As he leads us through the main building, I am amazed by how many Turkish carpets and kilims fill each and every single room. They are stacked on top of each other or rolled up in corners, on the floor or on a bench. The bright colors and different patterns are astounding. Although I already own two Turkish kilims, I wished I had more time to buy another one or maybe even two.
Ümmüham spends two months making a wool double knotted Turkish carpet (the fluffier kind of rugs that can be mistaken for Oriental rugs) that measures approximately 1.5 meters in dimension while a flat-weave kilim takes three weeks. She also hand-dyes the wool yarn using only natural ingredients such as flowers, roots and spices. She shows us the yarns hanging outside on hooks to dry while cows and chickens laze about in the yard nearby.
To me, buying a Turkish carpet or kilim is a personal experience. When we lived in Turkey, I took several friends to buy Turkish carpets from the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. When I finally purchased my own, I spent about two hours looking at dozens of different styles. And even though I love my kilims, I don’t know the story behind them.

Getting a Turkish carpet or kilim from Etrim village and the Başol family is a memory that would last forever.

If you’re visiting the Bodrum area, feel free to call Engin Başol so you can enjoy a traditional Turkish breakfast and see the carpets for yourself. It’s also a good opportunity to visit and learn about a Turkish village in person.

Location:
Etrim Hali Carpets is located next to Doğa Restaurant & Köy Kahvaltısı
Etrim Mahallesi köyüaz
Pınarlıbelen, Muğla, Turkey 48400

Best to call ahead to make group reservations.  +90 532 602 6769

(I was the guest of Etrim Doğa Restaurant & Köy Kahvaltısı, but all the opinions expressed here are my own.)
My Traveling Joys

Friday, September 29, 2017


On the weekends when we lived in Turkey, I loved going to have a traditional Turkish breakfast – where the meal is like an event.

And if you ever get to experience a Köy Kahvaltısı (village breakfast), especially with a group of friends, the meal can last for hours and feature dozens upon dozens of Turkish specialties. On my recent trip to Bodrum, I experienced exactly that at Etrim Doğa Restaurant & Köy Kahvaltısı, located in a tiny, traditional Turkish village up in the hills about a 40-minute drive from the main city. The meal is cooked by the sister of Engin Başol, who owns the attached Etrim Turkish Carpet cooperative with his father (more about that business in another post).
  
In Etrim, you are served a fabulous, traditional, Turkish village breakfast with the warm and generous Turkish hospitality that I miss so much. There’s no menu, and the dishes keep coming out of the kitchen. Plus, you are sitting in a tranquil setting with the fresh country air and perhaps a few (really) free-range chickens pecking at your feet.
A Turkish village breakfast is meant for sharing with friends!
Just look at the spread we enjoyed!

Lokma is a Turkish fried sweet dough that is covered in a simple syrup. I guess you could call lokma a kind of doughnut or sweet fritter as we would in the United States. Lokma is often served as a dessert (sometimes garnished with cinnamon, sesame seeds or coconut) or as an accompaniment to coffee.

Zeytinyağlı Taze Fasülye – Mediterranean-style green beans and tomatoes cooked in Turkish olive oil.
çiçek dolması are courgetti/zucchini flowers that are stuffed with aromatic rice with herbs and onions. These stuffed, edible flowers are a specialty in the Aegean region of Turkey. I love them!
One of my favorite Turkish treats are sigara börek – cigar-shaped savory Turkish pastries stuffed with feta cheese and herbs, and cooked until crisp. Delicious!
Otlu börek – a new-to-me Turkish pastry is delicious baked pastry made from thin sheets of  yufka (phyllo dough) and layered parsley, dill, green onions and a mixture of wild greens.
Ezme – a delicious spread of tomatoes, onions, peppers and herbs with a red pepper paste. Spread a generous dab of this on some freshly baked bread.

Fresh tomatoes, sliced cucumbers, black and green olives, spicy green peppers and Turkish cheeses.
Zeytinyagli Sarma – Stuffed grapevine leaves with aromatic rice, although the filling sometimes changes and different herbs are used.

And of course, rounding out all this amazing food is unlimited glasses of hot çay (Turkish tea).

As you can imagine, going out for Köy Kahvaltısı is a leisurely activity and best not to be rushed. You could easily spend a whole afternoon in the village of Etrim when you visit Bodrum!


Location:
Etrim Doğa Restaurant & Köy Kahvaltısı
Etrim Mahallesi köyü
Pınarlıbelen, Muğla, Turkey 48400

Best to call ahead to make group reservations.  +90 532 602 6769
Social media: Instagram and Facebook 

(I was the guest of Etrim Doğa Restaurant & Köy Kahvaltısı with a group of Turkish bloggers, but all the opinions expressed here are my own.)

My Traveling Joys

Monday, September 18, 2017

Merhaba!

I’ve just returned from a wonderful, but all too short long weekend in Bodrum, Turkey. I can’t believe it’s been more than three years since I’ve visited my favorite “homeland.”

I was a guest of Slow Food Bodrum and participated and taught a baking class as part of the 3rd Annual Karaova Grape Harvest Festival. It was a fantastic foodie event that I’ll have to tell you about in more detail soon.
But first, here’s the recipe I made for the event and I’m sharing with you now. You can use any kind of fruit in the tart – Turkish figs, grapes, pears, berries – you name it. Also, if you live in Turkey or can get your hands on them, feel free to use ground up apricot kernels – which give the tart a yummy almondy flavor!

Afiyet olsun!
Joy

Joy’s Basic Sweet Tart Dough 
Yields: approx. 2 tart shells 9-10-inch size

255      g.         butter, soft 
200      g.         granulated sugar 
¼         tsp.      salt 
2          ea.       large eggs 
500      g.         flour, sifted 

Using a stand mixer or hand blender, cream together the butter, sugar and salt with a paddle until smooth.  
Add eggs, one at a time, scraping down sides of bowl until mixture is smooth. Add the flour and mix on low until incorporated.  

Shape dough into two flat disks and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill for at least 30 minutes before rolling out. 

Using a rolling pin, roll out dough on a floured surface and cut into a circle. Line the selected tart pan with baking paper and lightly spray with a non-stick spray. Press the dough into the selected tart pan. Allow to chill at least 30 minutes before baking. (This step will prevent the tart from shrinking during baking.) 

Dough scraps can be pressed together, refrigerated and reused one more time.

Fragipane Filling
For 1 tart shell

230      g.         butter, soft
230      g.         granulated sugar
230      g.         ground almonds/hazelnuts (mixture is nice) Or you can substitute ground Turkish apricot kernels. In Turkey, these apricot “seeds” are much cheaper than nuts.
3          ea.       large eggs
50        g.         plain flour
Optional:         lemon or orange zest, finely grated
Approx. 1 kilo fresh fruit such as figs or plums

Cream butter, sugar and ground nuts together.
Add eggs and flour and zest, if using. Cream until well blended.
Spread over the bottom of a tart shell. Layer fruit on top.
Bake at 170C for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Cover the top of the tart with aluminum foil towards the end of the baking if the top is getting too browned. The tart is done when you insert a skewer or knife tip into the center of the tart and it comes out clean.

Serve tart at room temperature.
This is one of the tarts I made while in Bodrum using the ground up apricot kernels.




Wednesday, August 30, 2017

Daytrip from London

When London actually has some summery sunny days, many Londoners escape the city and flock to Brighton Beach – just a 50-minute train ride away on the south coast in Sussex.

One hot Sunday in July we did exactly that. After dropping off our bags at our hotel, we walked across the street to the beach – a very rocky place indeed – and found a somewhat less rocky place to lay out on our Turkish towels. We opened our bottle of Prosecco from home and took in the scenery around us.
Brighton Beach (the polar opposite of its namesake in Australia) was not what I expected. In fact, after taking in the scene, the noisy boardwalk and cheesy amusement park area, Brighton Beach reminded me a lot like the Atlantic coast of New Jersey, which, by the way, has much better (sandy) beaches. I’m probably going to offend some local Brits here, but I was not a fan of Brighton. It was super crowded, too touristy, and most shocking of all, it was dirty.

After beachgoers had a day and night of partying here, the beach was filthy!
However, on the positive side, my husband and I actually had a day off together, and it was sunny – two rare occurrences. We intended to make the most of it.

Eating Seafood by the Seashore
After bubbles and sunbathing, we ventured along the boardwalk in search of food. I didn’t simply want fish and chips, but some proper seafood. We stumbled upon The Salt Room because it had good reviews online and available outdoor seating. This modern British restaurant absolutely blew us away with its perfectly-cooked seafood! We shared: grilled octopus with white beans, pancetta and seaweed; raw scallops with elderflower and lumpfish roe; raw tuna with kalamansi, chili and sesame; half a dozen Jersey oysters; and halibut with peas, verjus and jersey royal potatoes. Wow!

We probably ordered one dish too many, but everything on the menu looked so good that we couldn’t resist. I highly recommend a visit to The Salt Room! After all that food and wine, I needed a nap.
For dinner, we ate more oysters and delicious seafood dishes at Plateau, a French-inspired wine bar that features natural wines, located near the Lanes.
Walk Along the Boardwalk
Much of the town is centered on the seafront promenade which is lined with bars, cafés, shops and amusement arcades. If you fancy some old-fashioned arcade fun, then head to the historic Marine Palace and Pier, opened in 1899. I quickly peaked inside the funfair, but the hordes of children and tourists led me to make a quick exit.

Cycle next to the White Cliffs
After my husband left Monday morning, I had a free day to explore before I took an evening bus back to London. (Note: Southwestern is notorious for cancelling trains, so be prepared for backup transport options like the National Express buses.) After sunbathing for awhile, I got motivated to rent a bike. Brighton Beach Bikes is located in one of the arches on the west side of the Pier and staffed by a super friendly guy. Soon, I was on my Californian cruiser. A one-hour rental costs £6, or £9 for two hours.

Heading east from Brighton Pier, I pedaled past the marina and along the paved Undercliff Walk, which features the stark white chalk cliffs on one side and the English Channel on the other. It was a peaceful and enjoyable ride. I made it to the historic village of Rottingdean (about 4 miles), but I was too hot and sweaty to explore. Instead, I parked my rental bike on the beach and enjoyed an ice cream cone from Molly’s, a small café in front of the beach.
Shopping and Street Art in The Lanes and North Laine
I’m not much of a shopper, but I did enjoy browsing through the vibrant-colored and funky shops located in The Lanes and the North Laine. The latter is a bit more bohemian/retro chic and offered several pub and café options too. Perhaps, if the sun wasn’t beating down on me, I would have enjoyed shopping at one of the 300 unique shops along here.

While Brits may love the seaside town of Brighton, I think there’s a lot more of the U.K. I want to explore before rushing back here.

My Traveling Joys

Thursday, August 10, 2017

Daytrip from London

A rainy day in London is the perfect time to write about our also wet weekend get-away to Bath back in February. We spent nearly 48 hours in this historic city and found plenty to keep us occupied, although I have heard of tourists seeing this great city in just one day. If you have the time, I would definitely recommend spending a whole weekend in Bath. Read on to find out why.

Canary Gin and Wine Bar
The Canary Gin and Wine Bar is the go-to destination in Bath for gin lovers as its home to the famous Bath Gin Company. Oddly enough when I asked for a vodka cocktail I was told that this was a gin bar. Duh! Well, I had a glass of wine because gin is hubby’s drink of choice not mine. The bar has a cool atmosphere and is definitely good for a drink IF you like gin cocktails.
Stay at a Historic Hotel
Luckily, hubby decided to cash in some credit card points so we stayed two nights at the Francis Hotel – MGallery Collection, a beautiful townhouse in the heart of historic Bath. The hotel occupies seven of the nine original townhouses, built between 1728 and 1736 and designed by English architect John Wood the Elder who is credited with the city’s great architecture. Wood designed the surrounding townhouses to look out onto Queen Square in the middle. He even lived at No. 9 because it had the best views of the square, and this townhouse is now the entrance to the Francis Hotel.
Bath Abbey and Bell Tower Tour
Don’t miss your chance to see historic Bath from above by taking one of the hourly Bath Abbey Bell Tower tours! After climbing up more than 200 steps to the top of the tower, you are rewarded with spectacular views of the city even on a wet, windy day like we had. You’ll also be able to stand on top of the Abbey’s vaulted ceiling and sit behind the clock face.
Three different churches have occupied the site of today’s Abbey since 757 AD. The present-day church was first repaired in 1616, additional structural changes made in the 1830s, but the most significant changes occurred in the late 19th century. From 1864-1874, Sir George Gilbert Scott transformed the inside of the Abbey with Victorian Gothic architectural details and replaced the ancient wooden beam ceiling with the beautiful stone fan vaulting instead.

Cute Coffeeshops
Just because you’re not in the big city anymore doesn’t mean you can’t find a decent cup of coffee in Bath. We popped into Cascara for two flat-whites, but the nearby Society Café would have been a good option too.
The Roman Baths
Visiting the 2,000-year-old Roman Baths in Bath is definitely the city’s most popular attraction. On Saturday morning, the queues to get inside wrapped around the building, but then we learned a trick. We stopped by the Visitor’s Information building and learned we could buy a triple-play Museum Saver ticket to the baths, the Victorian Art Gallery and the Fashion Museum for £21.50, saving us £7, and allowing us to skip the line. Bloody brilliant!

On the next day, we arrived about an hour after the museum opened because we wanted to avoid the crowds, especially in my photos. I love some good ruins and the Roman Baths did not disappoint. The Romans founded the city of Aquae Sulis around the natural hot springs and built the great bathing and socializing complex in 70 AD.
Today, nearly 1.2 million liters of steaming spring water, reaching 46 °C (115°F) still fill the bathing site every single day. (The steam makes for fantastic photos!) The Romans believed that this was the mystical work of the Gods, but we now know that geothermal energy increases the water temperature miles below the surface. Then, under pressure, the heated water rises to the surface through cracks in the limestone and fills the Great Bath. Inside the baths, you’ll even find remains of the ancient heated rooms and the plunge pools. Allow yourself at least 2 hours to see everything in the Roman Baths and to take photos.
Crossing Pulteney Bridge
Like the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy, the Pulteney Bridge is one of a handful of historic bridges in the world with shops built into it. We also found a good cup of coffee here at the aptly-named Bridge Coffee House. The bridge, completed in 1774, provided a much-needed non-waterway connection to the newly-built Georgian town of Bathwick on the other side of River Avon. The bridge, one of Bath’s well-known images, also is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Explore Georgian Architecture
Since Bath is known for its Georgian architecture, it’s fun simply to wander through the city and find these notable buildings. Besides the townhouses on Queen Square, don’t miss The Circus and the Royal Crescent.

The Circus, named for the Latin word “circus,” which means a ring, oval or circle, was built between 1754-1768. Originally called the King's Circus, the three buildings were designed by John Wood the Elder, but he died less than three months after the first stone was laid and his son helped finish the plan. Interestingly, the same dimensions of Stonehenge, 318 feet in diameter is seen in The Circus because Wood was convinced that Bath had been the main center of Druid activity in the U.K.
Just a few blocks away, you’ll find The Royal Crescent, a row of 30 impressive terraced houses laid out in a sweeping crescent overlooking a large grass field. Designed by the Wood’s son, John Jr. and built between 1767-1774, this 150-meter long, Grade I-listed building is noted to be one of the greatest examples of Georgian architecture in the U.K. At No. 16, you’ll find the luxurious 5-star Royal Crescent Hotel and Spa, which also has a wonderful Afternoon Tea menu, but you must book weeks in advance. Sadly, we missed out, but we did peak into the beautiful spring gardens out back.
Sip on Afternoon Tea
I think there are at least 10 places where you can have afternoon tea in Bath. You can read about our high tea experience at the Bath Priory here.
Dress Up at the Fashion Museum
Who knew that a Fashion Museum could be so fun and that even my partner would like it? Apparently, the Fashion Museum in Bath is one of the world’s top 10 museums of fashionable dress. There are more than 160 dressed figures wearing clothes from the past 400 years – from historic Georgian ballgowns to simple cotton dresses to cutting-edge fashions by some of today’s leading designers.
The museum also is housed in part of the Assembly Rooms, another Georgian building designed by John Wood Jr. in 1769, where locals used to gather to dance, drink tea, play cards and listen to music. Entry to the stately Assembly Rooms is included in the Fashion Museum ticket.

Would you like to visit Bath? 
Or if you’ve been, do you have any tips for Bath?

I'm obsessed with photographing doors whenever we travel. Here's a small sample from Bath, UK.
My Traveling Joys

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