Showing posts with label Taksim. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Taksim. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

It only took us three years to do something nearly every first-time tourist does in Istanbul.

Before we moved from Istanbul last year, we made a bucket list of things we still wanted to do in the city. One of those items was riding the historic tram that trundles down the pedestrian-only Istiklal Caddesi in Taksim.
You cannot miss the historic Tünel Tram in the Taksim neighborhood in Istanbul.

I always pooh-pawed the idea of taking this tram. For one, it’s always crowded; and two, it was something ONLY tourists did. I was never a true tourist in Istanbul. I moved to this historical, cosmopolitan city in 2010 as a first-time resident, newly married, and without ever seeing it in person.

Of course, I ended up doing many touristy things over and over, especially when friends came to visit us. However, riding this tram was never one of those things. Not riding this tram while living in Istanbul perhaps is comparable to never setting foot in Times Square if you had lived in NYC like we once did.

The historic red and white Tünel Tram runs down Istiklal Caddesi (once called the Grand Rue de Pera) from Taksim Square to Tünel Square – a distance of 1.64 km (1 mile). The tram was first introduced in 1875, taken out of service in 1961 to be replaced by buses, and was revived again in 1990. Today, the trams carry an average of 6,000 passengers daily!
If you do decide to take the tram, I can’t promise you will arrive at your destination any quicker than if you just walked the 15 or 20 minutes. The ride is relatively slow as the conductor must constantly ring the bell to make the pedestrians move out of the tram’s way. However, the ride offers tourists and residents alike a quick view of life on Istiklal Cadessi, and maybe you will shave a few minutes off your commute.

For us, riding the historic Tünel Tram was just another item crossed off our Istanbul bucket list!
If you’d like read more about Istanbul during the late 1900s as the Ottoman Empire was waning, I can highly recommend a historical fiction book called, The Sultan’s Seal by Jenny White. Her book follows the main character, Kamil Pasa, a magristrate over the Pera and Galata neighborhood, as he tries to solve a murder mystery. The book goes into great detail about the old neighborhoods of Taksim, Galata and Pera. It’s a fantastic read!

“A horse-drawn tram clangs along the (Grand Rue de Pera), carrying matrons from the new northern suburbs into town for shopping…Kamil surveys the early morning bustle of Istanbul’s most modern quarter. Apprentices balance nested copper tins of hot food and trays of steaming tea, hurrying toward customers waiting in shops and hotels…,” excerpt taken from The Sultan’s Seal.

Monday, March 25, 2013

I don’t know why it took me so long to discover one of the most darling Turkish gift stores in Istanbul.

Located in the heart of Taksim, just a few steps from bustling Istiklal Caddesi, you’ll find the small storefront of Nahıl Dükkan. Here you can buy all kinds of homemade gifts, such as aprons, table cloths, lavender sachets, children’s toys, coin purses and natural soaps, and support a great cause.
Since 2008, Nahıl Dükkan in Istanbul has been selling products made by low-income women in Turkey. The store is supported by Kadın Emeğini Değerlendirme Vakfı (KEDV), a non-profit organization, established in 2003. KEDV’s goal was to establish a platform from which women throughout Turkey could sell their handicrafts, which would then help empower them economically. The Istanbul store also sells vintage and second-hand clothes and books.

The word Nahıl means to help each other and also is the name of a tree which symbolizes bereket, a Turkish word that translates loosely as bountiful blessings. 

At Nahıl Dükkan, I stocked up on several lavender sachet bags featuring cute designs such as the historic Tünel tram, Turkish tulips, Galata Tower and cats for only 4 tl each. I always like to keep a variety of gift items at home so I quickly can put together small gift bags for friends.
In addition to these lavender sachets, I found a sweet purple cloth-covered headband for my niece.
I also picked up a darling handmade cotton apron with a hand-stitched angel on it for only 30 tl. I love aprons! I try to buy one wherever we travel to remind me of that destination. My collection includes ones from our trips to Bologna, Rome, New Orleans (where we were married) and of course, Istanbul.
Nahıl’s bright designs are a mix of modern and traditional, with all items being handmade and hand-loomed. You’ll find some beautiful, colorful Turkish peştemal (light hamam towels), hamam accessories, hand-embroidered scarves, Turkish olive oil and natural olive oil soaps, which are made in Mardin, a city in southeastern Turkey. If you’re a tourist, this a wonderful place to buy some Turkish “must buy” gifts to take home – at reasonable prices - and to support a great cause!
These larger lavender sachets will make great gifts for my kitty-loving friends.
And if you live in Istanbul like I do, you should definitely stop by Nahıl Dükkan to see what homemade items you can’t live without too!

Happy shopping!

According the website, KEDV has established a number of workshops and cooperatives throughout Turkey, assisting more than 10,000 women and children, with a focus on low-income areas that have limited economic opportunities. The profits from these projects are then used to provide children’s education materials, to open new children’s nurseries and handicraft workshops and support social entrepreneurship.

Location:
İstiklal Caddesi, Bekar Sokak No.17, Beyoğlu
(0212) 251 90 85 
www.nahil.com.tr 

Saturday, March 16, 2013

There are few places I return to time and time again to eat at in Istanbul.

Selvi Lokanatası – a non-descript Turkish buffet-style restaurant located off of Taksim Square – is one of those places I have frequented many, many times. And it’s one you should put on your list if you’re looking for an inexpensive, home-cooked meal while you’re in Istanbul.

When I was taking Turkish lessons at Dilmer, I stopped in for lunch at least twice a week at Selvi. At least I would eat a delicious meal before I started crying again or pulling my hair out over my dreadful Turkish homework.

What I like about Selvi Lokantası is the food is always fresh, there’s a nice variety of menu options, the service is fast and friendly, and there’s always soup on the menu. I love soup even when it’s 90 F outside! It’s one of places where you simply point to the food that you want even if you don’t speak Turkish. However, usually, one of the workers speaks a little English.
Just walk up to the counter at Selvi Lokantası and point to what you would like to order.
Breakfast service starts at 6:30 a.m. with two kinds of soup in the summer and four kinds in the winter, or a traditional Turkish breakfast also is available. Lunch service begins at 11 a.m. The sign says the restaurant also serves dinner until 1 a.m. to catch the late night revelers in Taksim, but I haven’t been by that late. At that time of night, I’m more in the mood for tantuni or a late-night döner kebap.

Selvi Lokantası is a longtime family-owned restaurant. In the 1950s, the father, Ayvaz Hacızade, started out with a pudding shop and later started his first restaurant with his four siblings. In 1970, the restaurant was the first to introduce the idea of self-service in Turkey. (You go up to the counter, select your food, place on it on a tray and then you pay.) Today, the son, Metin Hacızade and his wife, Çiğdem, run the restaurant. Apparently, the family has even used the same butcher for 40 years.

Recently, my husband and I stopped at Selvi for lunch at 11:45 a.m. The buffet trays looked like they had just been refreshed. The four soup kettles were steaming hot. I ordered one of my favorite Turkish soups - mercimek çorbası (lentil soup). The employee pointed out the main dishes, which ones contained tavuk (chicken) or dana (beef). Our total bill, including drinks, was under 30 tl. A great bargain!
When you’re done eating your home-cooked Turkish meal, one of the friendly employees will usually come around and offer you çay. I have even stayed long enough to drink two glasses of çay. I like to leave a few lira on the table for the good service.

The restaurant is always busy with neighborhood locals stopping by for a quick lunch and the occasional tourist. If you arrive during the noon rush hour, you may even have to wait for a table.

Selvi Lokantası is one of those foodie gems that I’m glad I found in Istanbul

Location: 
Katip Mustafa Çelebi Mah., Sıraselviler Cad. 6/I, Cihangir, Istanbul.
If you exit out of the Taksim metro stop at the square, turn left down the street by the Burger King and row of döner kebap places. Selvi is about 10 doors down from the corner.
Phone: +90-212-293-8964

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Have you ever gone from nowhere to nowhere?

Well, that’s kind of what my husband and I felt like this weekend when we took the teleferik at Maçka Park in Istanbul.

Riding the teleferik (cable car) has been on our Istanbul “bucket list,” and we finally got to cross it off after almost three years of living here. Although the 3-minute ride did offer some great views over the park, I can tell you that you aren’t really missing much if you don’t get to ride the teleferik.
What’s odd is where the teleferik is located, and the fact that it doesn’t connect to or even near another mode of public transportation. But this is hardly surprising here in Istanbul. I’ve had several moments where I thought the city planners (or lack thereof) didn’t think or plan the public transportation stops/connections very well. Burası Türkiye!
Looking out from my "pod" over Maçka Park.
If you walk down from Nişantaşı heading toward the shore road, you will run into the Maçka Park starting point of the teleferik. Using your akbil or with a 3-lira jeton, you can hop on one of the space-ship looking pods. Each pod can hold six people.

We timed our ride so it would be close to sunset and shared our pod with two couples. It was çok romantik! Actually, I can see how young children would really enjoy this short voyage.
The ride takes you about 300 meters above Maçka Park, also called Demokrasi Parkı, which is a pleasant enough park with wooden benches, jogging paths and plenty of greenery.

The ride ends (or also begins depending on you look at it) in Taksim near the Taşkışla” building of Istanbul Technical University. The Grand Hyatt Hotel also is located on the other side of the street.
A night view of the Taşkışla building of the Istanbul Technical University.
For university students rushing to class, I can see how this cable car provides a convenience to avoid walking all the way around the park – about 10 minutes or so. I wish I had this option when I lived in Nebraska, but my campus was as flat as a pancake.

Seriously, taking the teleferik is one of those only in Istanbul moments I’m glad we experienced together. And the short ride offers a unique panoramic view of this city that I love and will miss greatly!

The cable car, which opened in 1993, runs daily from 8 a.m.-7 p.m.
This is the Taksim entrance/exit of the teleferik in Istanbul.
Here you can see the pulley and brake system that helps operate the teleferik.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

It seemed only fitting to end where we had began.

When my American friends arrived two weeks ago, I introduced them to Istanbul via Taksim and Istikal Caddesi. We walked down this pedestrian-only, bustling street, stopping to see the sights such as Cikek Pasajı, Balik  Pazarı, Church of St. Antoine and Galata Tower.
The building of Church of St. Antoine dates to 1913. However, the church
was first established in Istanbul in 1725. 
Last night, Jason and I decided to take our friends back to Taksim for a farewell dinner. We went to a small cafe that we like off of Istikal, feasted on simple etli dürüm (meat wrap sandwiches), patates tava (French fries) and izgara tavuk (grilled chicken) and drank Efes beer. We chatted about the past two weeks we’ve enjoyed together and all the traveling we’ve done. (Luckily, I have a 2-week break to relax before the next set of friends arrive.)

For “dessert,” we were able to talk our friends into trying some yeşil elma nargile (green apple-flavored tobacco in the hookah). Normally, I don’t smoke, but I do enjoy the nargile every now and then when we go out in Istanbul.

Taksim is always full of life and was a fun way to send off our friends back to the states.

Iyi yolcular!
Nightlife on Istikal Caddesi. Next time, I need to get a photo that really captures
the bustling activity here.

Sunday, July 10, 2011



Today, hubby and I are enjoying a lazy Sunday strolling through Taksim. We stopped at Cremeria Milano, near the Sishane metro stop on Istikal Cad. This small gelato shop is a recent discovery for me thanks to a long-time resident and friend.

My 2-scoop cone of Tirmisu and caffe' was delicious! Perfect for this warm day. A little pricier than my normal dondurma shop - 7tl vs. 2tl. But oh so worth it!

Afiyet olsun!


Tuesday, March 22, 2011

I never tire of eating grilled kebaps here.

We’re always up for trying a new kebap restaurant - well, at least new to us. So this weekend, we met another couple in Taksim to dine at Zübeyir Ocakbaşı. This grill house comes highly recommended in the small, local guidebook called Istanbul Eats

Luckily, our friends had stopped by the other day to make reservations because the restaurant’s two floors were packed the whole time we were there. The focal point of our dining room was an ocakbası, a long hearth topped by a copper hood. Here, the meat is placed on long, metal skewers and grilled over hardwood coals. Next time, I’d like to request a table closer to the grill because I always enjoy watching my food being cooked. 

A view of the grill with skewers of kebaps placed on top.
Like every Turkish meal, we started with a round of mezzes and selected two of the book’s recommendations. Kabak salatası (pumpkin salad) was more like a dip instead of a salad made from mashed pumpkin and yogurt. Secondly, we chose the Gavur Dağı Salatası - a combination of chopped tomatoes, parsley and greens with pomegranate molasses dressing and olive oil. We quickly made good use of the “refillable” basket of flat breads on our table and dug in.
Gavur Dağı Salatası

Thirdly, we also had the common, popular patlıcan közde (grilled eggplant) with onions, garlic and tomatoes.

For our entrees, we selected three kebaps that we could share. These included: kanat (chicken wings), pirzola (lamb chops) and kaburga (lamb ribs). Everything was perfectly grilled and had a hint of that charcoal-goodness. We probably could have eaten more, but we didn’t necessarily need it either.

The plate of meat! A few grilled veggies usually are added too.

During our meal, somehow we started talking to the young child (about 6 or 7 years old) at the table behind us. That’s about the level of my Turkish skills! He was an entertaining kid and was showing us various pictures he had drawn.

After our delicious meal, we wandered across the street to U2, ironically an Irish pub, to toast a pint with our friends and celebrate a belated St. Patrick’s Day. If you’re in the neighborhood, I’d definitely recommend stopping by the kebap restaurant.

Reservations recommended.
Zübeyir Ocakbaşı
Bekar Sokak 28
Beyoğlu, Istanbul

Monday, January 17, 2011

Eating amazingly fresh seafood is one of the joys of living here in Istanbul!

I usually make it to one of the “Balik Pazar” about once a week. I probably should shop there more often since we are practically surrounded by water from the nearby Black Sea, Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. (I blame it on my carnivore-like tendencies since I grew up in the Midwest.)

This past weekend, I finally had recovered enough and felt like my normal self. Luckily, we also had visitors coming from Bulgaria and they wanted to eat at a fish restaurant. One of my girlfriends whom I worked with in New York City is originally from Bulgaria and happened to be visiting her family back in her hometown.

Of course, Jason and I were happy to show off our city! Taksim – is the best place for guests to experience Istanbul’s varied nightlife at its best. On Saturday night, the main street of Istiklal Caddesi was completely full of people!

For dinner, I had made a reservation at Asmalımescit Balikçisi, Asmalımescit Mah. Ve Sofyalı Sk. No: 5/A in Tünel-Beyoğlu. (I think the restaurant has been renamed to Rakici Asmalımescit.) This was my first reservation I made entirely in Turkish! I was quite proud of myself! For the most part, I just had to know my numbers.

For mezes, our server brought out a large tray full of approximately 15 small white dishes. We selected a yogurt and pursulane dip, cold octopus salad, patlıcan salatası, mackerel, and some other type of fish. Of course, we also started the meal off with raki, the popular Turkish anisette-flavored liqueur.


The restaurant was full of people – all Turkish, which we saw as a good sign! And everyone was drinking raki too! The menu was in English and Turkish. For the most part, we try to practice our Turkish as much as possible.

Çoban Salatası and a fried liver meze.
On the menu, Jason was happy to see “hamsi” which are small anchovies. He’s been dying to try the hamsi - a Black Sea seasonal fish. October is the beginning of the hamsi fishing season, and it continues through the winter months here. These silvery, tasty morsels are lightly fried. Jason said they are like “fish French fries” and you must eat them while they are hot. (I had previously tried hamsi twice at a small restaurant in Yenikoy.)


Apparently, I have a lot to learn about this little fish. Just this morning, one of my local friends told me that I need to learn how to make hamsi with a fresh tomato sauce. There’s another Turkish recipe where the hamsi are deboned, filleted and stuffed with various goodies. Well, I’m happy to learn. Sign me up!

The rest of us ordered the “levrek” or sea bass. This fish is always fresh and light. All it needs is a little bit of fresh lemon juice.


Dinner lasted nearly three hours, and the raki kept flowing. It was fun to catch up with my friend and learn about Bulgaria from her, her brother and his wife. It sounds like Bulgaria would be good weekend trip for us, especially during the winter months for skiing. It looks like we can drive to some of the ski resorts in about five to six hours.
My friend, Rosalina, and me
Hopefully, we can cross another country off of our list and experience a different cuisine!

Afiyet Olsun!

This isn't the best photo, but at least you can get a general idea of how crowded the streets are at night.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Murano chandeliers drip with crystals.

Glass domes over the lobby let sunlight dapple inside.

The foyer is lined with refurbished Carrera marble and gold-leaf decoration.

Yesterday, I was lucky enough to dine in a place that has a unique, intriguing, and dare I say, almost boisterous history. The Pera Palace Hotel, recently opened after a 2.5 year+ and $30 million renovation, was the location for the Christmas Luncheon of the International Women of Istanbul.


When I received the invitation over a month ago, I immediately sent in my "yes" response. I wanted to peek inside the hotel and see what the fuss was all about. When I first arrived in Istanbul in July, the hotel still was under construction. I remember walking by, seeing the impressive marble columns outside and wondering what the place had been.

According to local history, the Pera Palace Hotel, originally founded in 1892, opened for the specific purpose of hosting passengers arriving on the Orient Express train. Over the years, the hotel was witness to many spy games and hosted several popular personalities in its time. (You can read more about the hotel's history here.)

Writer Agatha Christie is said to be inspired by the hotel and used it as a backdrop in her stories. It is rumored that she wrote “Murder on the Orient Express” here. Author Ernest Hemingway drank in the Orient Bar while possibly penning his next novel. King George V and Greta Garbo were regular visitors to this place. Alfred Hitchcock, and Winston Churchill also stayed here. Kemal Ataturk, founder of the modern Turkish republic, stayed while he prepared for the Turkish War of Independence. “Ataturk’s Suite,” room 101, is now preserved as a museum. 

For our lunch, we started with a glass of hot mulled wine. It was fun to walk around and talk with several women I’ve met before and to meet new faces as well. It’s such a lively and welcoming group of women.



After an hour, we finally all sat down (imagine trying to get 180 ladies into the same room to sit down) and proceeded onto the appetizer of stuffed zucchini blossoms with goat cheese.


Before the entrée arrived, I switched to a glass white wine. The meal was a pistachio-crusted salmon filet on bed of creamed leaks served with fondant potatoes. The rich dish was fairly tasty, but the neon green pistachio dust, which also covered the chicken entrée, was a bit much.


Later on amongst all the gossiping, dessert – a baked cherry and almond tart - arrived. It was good, but I had three complaints. The tart’s crust was too thick and heavy. Two – cherries aren’t in season so I can only assume a canned filling was used. Three - I despise mint sprigs being used as a dessert garnish.


After my luxurious lunch, I walked through Taksim Square and Nişantaşı, and stopped at several places so I could finish my Christmas shopping. Yes, it was a rough day.

The hotel was decorated with Christmas trees and ornaments.
Outside view of the Pera Palace Hotel.
I wish I had taken more photos inside the hotel, but there were so many people milling about that it was difficult. 

Next time, I hope my husband and I can enjoy a drink at the famous Orient Bar or we can take in an afternoon tea.