Tuesday, January 10, 2012



Walking through the winter rain in Sultanahmet creates a different perspective of the area compared to daylight hours.

You notice the New Year's lights twinkling in the distance outside vacant storefronts.

Cobblestone sidewalks devoid of people seem to disappear.

Rain puddles catch the changing shadows of the historical buildings after sunset.

There's an almost supernatual silence that settles into the neighborhood at night. In contrast, daytime is filled with boisterous interruptions from tourists and vendors alike.

If you can, walk through Sultanahmet at night in the rain and see how your perception changes. Don't forget to stop and admire the Blue Mosque.


Sunday, January 8, 2012



This week, I've been running all over Istanbul to show our first guests of 2012 an insider's view of this magnificent city.


Here's a glimpse of our week:


Random Turkish marching band in Taksim.


Eating fried mussels as a snack near Cicek Pasaji.


Meeting an art historian and a new friend.


Discovering the antique neighborhood of Cukurcuma.


Dancing after midnight in Taksim.


Photogenic street cats everywhere we went.


Capturing the "golden hour" along the Bosphorus.


Continuing to impress the Turkish shopkeepers with my language skills.


Eating a variety of kebaps and kofte nearly every day.


Pointing out the sights in Istanbul (I make a pretty good tour guide.)


Sharing the raki and balik experience followed by nargile with our U.S. friends .


Helping my friends buy a true kilim in the Grand Bazaar.


Sharing the joys of Istanbul with our friends - priceless!

Tuesday, January 3, 2012


Who wouldn't want to wake up to a freshly baked pound cake for breakfast?

Our first guests of 2012 arrived today, so I figured I should bake a special treat for them. I've been dying to use the candied kumquats I bought at the Yalıkavak Pazarı near Bodrum. I decided to make a variation of my favorite Meyer Lemon Pound Cake and use kumquats and mandalina (mandarins) in place of the Meyer Lemons.

The candied kumquats had an intense citrus flavor similar to candied orange peel, but a bit more unique. The only other way I've candied and preserved kumquats is in a simple syrup. I love the flavor of kumquats, but I hate all the tiny seeds.
Sliced candied kumquat. I did have to remove the larger seeds as I was slicing.
If you are fortunate enough to find candied kumquats or make them yourself, by all means, then use them in this recipe. Otherwise, candied orange or lemon peel also will work wonderfully here. I especially liked seeing the bright orange slivers throughout the cake slices.

We couldn't wait to try the pound cake, so we each enjoyed a slice for dessert tonight. The pound cake will probably make its way around the breakfast table too. Tangy, citrusy and delicious!

Afiyet Olsun!

Kumquat, Mandalina Pound Cake
(Adapted from “The Dessert Bible” by Christopher Kimball)

Ingredients:
8          oz.       (250 g.)            unsalted butter at room temperature
1 ½      c.         (350 g.)            granulated sugar or vanilla sugar*
3          ea.                                zest of mandalina (mandarins), finely grated
5          ea.                                large eggs at room temperature**
1 ¾      c.         (260 g.)            Turkish all-purpose flour (use only 1 2/3 c. if in the U.S.)
2          T.                                 fresh mandalina juice
scant 1/2 c.      (100 g.)            candied kumquat or orange peel, diced small

Glaze:
As needed                               powdered sugar and fresh mandalina juice

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F/175 C.
2. Grease or pan-spray a standard metal loaf pan. Set aside.
3. Place the butter into a metal mixing bowl. Using a hand mixer or a stand mixer beat the butter until smooth and creamy.
4. Gradually add the sugar and beat until the butter turns almost white and is very fluffy, about three to five minutes.
5. Next, add the mandalina zest. Then, add the eggs one at a time, mixing until incorporated. The batter should look smooth.
5. Add the flour in three parts, folding it into the batter with a large rubber spatula, making sure the batter is well mixed. Lastly, add the juice and the candied citrus.
You should end up with a perfectly smooth cake batter.
6. Pour batter into the prepared pan. Bake the cake for 1 hour. The top will split open and be nicely browned. Insert a toothpick or metal cake tester to see if the cake is done. If not, continue baking and check every five minutes. (My cake needed to bake 10 more minutes.)

7. When cake is done, run a knife around the edges and turn out onto a metal cooling rack. Let cool for about 1 hour before adding the glaze.

To make the glaze:
Add approximately, 1 cup of powdered sugar into a small mixing bowl. Then, slowly drizzle in mandalina  juice and whisk until the glaze is thoroughly combined. Adjust the consistency of the glaze by adding more sugar or more juice as needed. Pour over the top of the pound cake after it has cooled.

* I make my own vanilla sugar by grinding dried, leftover vanilla beans with granulated sugar in the food processor. Sift to remove the larger pieces. You can substitute vanilla sugar in most baking recipes.
**If the eggs are not at room temperature, place them in a bowl of hot water until they feel warm. Cold eggs could make the batter look grainy and separated.

Monday, January 2, 2012

Yesterday, we started the new year with a simple, soul-satisfying Turkish-Italian soup.

Technically, you only need two ingredients to make this soup inspired by our Italy trip to Bologna last year. Perfect since we didn't have much in our apartment!

From the freezer, I pulled out a bag of leftover turkey stock (from Thanksgiving) and a half-kilo bag of manti - small Turkish raviolis or dumplings. These dumplings, usually made from seasoned ground beef or lamb and wrapped in egg pasta, are served with a garlic-yogurt sauce in Turkey. However, I had a different idea in mind for my manti.
The Turkish manti are about 1/2-inch in diameter, and they freeze well.
There's a tiny corner shop in Nişantaşı that sells fresh manti and yufka. The shop is located down the street from Migros on Ihlamur Nişantaşı Yolu Sokak. One kilo of manti costs 15 TL. Of course, you can always find manti sold at your neighborhood pazar too.

See, the manti reminded me of the tiny tortellini often seen floating in steaming bowls full of tortellini in brodo - a traditional soup in the regions of Bologna and Modena in Italy. (Read history of the tortellini soup here.) Our favorite flavor-packed tortellini in brodo was eaten at Trattoria Anna Maria in Bologna.
We had a lovely meal at this Bolognese trattoria - filled with pork and Italian wine!
This photo doesn't do the soup justice! The tortellini often is filled with a mixture of seasoned
ground pork, Parmesan cheese, egg and spices
. 
Since the soup is based on a rich, flavorful stock, you must start with a homemade stock for best results. I knew my leftover well-seasoned turkey stock, boiled down for two hours from the turkey carcass, would best be utilized here. You certainly aren't going to find a capon at your local butcher here in Turkey or even in the U.S., so make a stock from a chicken or turkey instead.

Bring the broth to a boil and plop in the little dumplings. In a few minutes, your soup will be ready to serve. Hopefully, this will help cure my winter cold I brought back from the U.S.

Afiyet olsun!
What's for dinner? Manti in Brodo at our home in Istanbul.
Manti in Brodo/Turkish Ravioli in Broth Soup

Ingredients:

1          T.         sunflower oil
1          large    onion, small diced
4-6       ea.        garlic cloves, chopped small
500      g.         manti or tortellini
3          L.         homemade chicken or turkey stock
Garnish:           freshly grated Parmesan cheese
In a large stockpot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic, saute' until softened, about five minutes.

Add the stock and bring to a boil, covered with a lid.

Then, add the manti or tortellini into the boiling stock. Let simmer for 7-10 minutes. The manti will float to the surface when done cooking. Season the stock with salt and pepper, if necessary.

Serve the soup immediately in warmed bowls, topped with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

When we visited Singapore last month, we were told we must try the chilli crabs and the black pepper crabs.


Our friend Danny, a native Singaporean, enthusiastically explained we must eat these crabs specifically at Jumbo Seafood in the East Coast Seafood Centre. When a native person tells you where to eat, you listen!
Diners enjoying lots of seafood at Jumbo Seafood in Singapore.
We hailed a taxi, ordered the crabs and drunken prawns, hammered away at our crabs and had a finger-licking-outrageously-messy good time! Even our taxi driver told us Jumbo Seafood was one of the best places to eat these crabs in Singapore.
Jumbo Seafood's Chilli Pepper Crabs
Gigantic crab claws dipped in the black pepper paste.
Now, I’ve tried Maryland’s Old Bay-style crabs several times, but these crabs were so different. I preferred the spicy black pepper crabs while hubby liked the chilli crabs best. Then we sopped up the yummy juices with steamed Asian buns.

Lucky for us, Jumbo Seafood sold take-away spice packets in the restaurant. We bought a box of each spice blend so we could whip up these tasty Asian crabs at home. (Unfortunately, it looks like the spice packets are only sold in the Singapore restaurants. Make friends with someone to get your own.) Since I’ve never seen crabs in Turkey, we decided to bring the spices with us to the U.S.

During our whirlwind driving tour on the East Coast, we stopped in Baltimore and bought 2 dozen Maryland crabs in Fells Point.
On Christmas Eve and Day, hubby and his brother steamed the crabs here in North Carolina. 
Great photo opp! But our nephew was like "do I have to?"
The crabs enjoyed a brief moment of freedom before they were dropped into the steamer basket.

Then, Jason proceeded to cook up the spice mixes on the stovetop. For the chilli pepper crabs, he mixed ketchup, soy sauce, two eggs, cornstarch and water with the spice blend while the black pepper mix only required chicken stock and soy sauce.
Chilli pepper Maryland crabs
Christmas Day - Hubby shows off his Singaporean-Maryland crabs.
As you can see, the crab mixture we made looks nearly identical to the crabs we enjoyed in Singapore. One major problem is the size of crabs we bought in Maryland – they were small. Eating these crabs was difficult because they were a lot of work for just a little bit of meat inside.

Unfortunately, Jason and I were the only ones who preserved at picking away at the crabs for awhile. The majority of the family tried a few of the crabs while others refused to try them at all. Raw and steamed oysters were the clear winner over our Singaporean-style crabs.

Sigh! Well, at least we tried to share some new flavors with our family members.

In Singapore, Jumbo Seafood Chilli and Black Pepper Paste retail packs are available at Jumbo Seafood Singapore restaurants located at East Coast Seafood Centre, Serangoon Gardens Country Club, Riverside Point, The Riverwalk, Singapore Indoor Stadium, NSRCC, Dempsey Hill and Singapore Food Festival Village at Clark Quay.

Monday, December 26, 2011

North Carolina – I just had a yabanci moment here.

Although the sun was shining brightly, the weather was deceiving. This morning, we took our niece and nephew outside to enjoy the beach. They pulled off their socks and ran on the beach. I was thankful to enjoy some beach time rather than the chilly weather we had in Nebraska.
Christmas greetings from sunny and beachy North Carolina!
I picked up a few seashells along the seashore and tucked them in my pocket. I’ve collected a good handful of shells and polished stones from our travels in Turkey.

Well, let’s just say once the coastal winds whipped through our hair I was wishing for my winter coat, and the kids definitely should not have been barefooted. The locals were more bundled up than us. Oops!

We had to cut our relaxing walk on the beach very short! And the kids got carried back to the house for the most part.

Hopefully, the temperature will warm up so we can enjoy our last few days with family on the beach.
A little backlit - nice long pier along the beach in Kure Beach, NC.



Footprints in the sand

Sunday, December 25, 2011

Our Carolina Christmas tree. Sorry, couldn't get the photo to post correctly.

Today has been filled with presents, cookies, food, family and friends.

Just wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas from our current location in North Carolina. Hope everyone's day has been sweet and delicious - no matter where you are in the world.

Merry Christmas!