Monday, February 13, 2012


If you need a simple and just adorable recipe for Valentine's Day, you must try this meringue recipe.

These cutesy Red and White Meringue kisses are easy to make. It's just one of the recipes I've been teaching in my Valentine's Day baking classes this past week. Basically, you are just working with egg whites and granulated sugar and a bit of food coloring.

For best results:
  • Always work with room temperature eggs.
  • Use a clean metal bowl. Wipe clean to remove any traces of oil that could prevent your egg whites from whipping up fully.
  • Preferably, use a disposable pasty bag because the food coloring may discolor it otherwise.
I'm sure you're sweetheart, children or best friends will appreciate these tasty minty treats.


What are you baking for tomorrow?

Afiyet olsun!
Plain meringue kisses just as spectacular as the dressed up version below.
Red and White Meringue Kisses for Valentine's Day
Yields: about 65 1-inch kisses

3          ea.        (90 g.)              egg whites from large eggs
1/4       tsp.                               cream of tartar
3/4       c.         (175 g.)             granulated sugar
pinch                                       salt
1/4       tsp. or to taste                mint extract (nane essence)

Tools:  small paint brush, pastry bag with large star tip and red food coloring paste

Preheat the oven to 200 F/100 C. Line the cookie sheets with baking paper, set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk the egg whites together with the cream of tartar and salt until frothy.

Then, gradually add all the sugar, about 2 Tablespoons at a time, beating on high speed until the meringue forms stiff peaks. Add in the mint extract toward the end.

Take a small paintbrush and brush 4 thin stripes of red food coloring paste on the inside of the pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch open star tip. Fill the bag with some of the meringue. 

Working close to the tray, hold the pastry bag straight up and down and then pipe the kisses about 1-inch apart on the tray.

Bake for about 90 minutes or until the meringue appears dry, and are the kisses are firm. Store in an airtight container; they will stay fresh about 3-4 days.

Optional: drizzle with melted dark or semi-sweet chocolate.
If you like the combination of mint and chocolate, simply drizzle your finished meringues with melted chocolate.

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Elbow-deep in flour, sugar and sprinkles this week, I thought I'd at least post some photos. (My Valentine's Day baking classes started today and will continue through the 14th.)

On Sunday, we took advantage of the short-lived sunshine and walked along the Bosphorus - all the way from Üsküdar to Kadıköy. Last week, I hibernated inside our apartment except for the single day I captured some snow photos in Sultanahmet. I needed to get OUTSIDE!

The weather felt like a warm, spring day, and people were everywhere! I took a ton of photos, and we both soaked up the rays while we enjoyed our çay.


It was almost 5 p.m. when we walked across the bridge that spans over the train tracks by Istanbul’s Haydarpaşa Garı (Train Station). This castle-looking structure, dating from 1906/1908, is the first and last stop in Asia, depending on how you look at it.
Apparently, Haydarpaşa was an important link in the railway chain of the Kaiser's "Berlin-to-Baghdad" railway scheme, part of the German Empire's Drang nach Osten ("Drive to the East") during the late 19th century.

Soon, Haydarpaşa will close for renovations, and some people fear it probably will be turned into a hotel down the road. Let’s hope the building’s structural integrity will remain and not be forsaken for modernity (as has been the latest case for an ancient palace in Sultanahmet.) (Sadly, as of June 19, 2013, I’ve learned the last train used the station, and it will be converted into another shopping mall. See this article: Haydarpaşa Train Station is Closing with New Terminal.)


When you catch a ferry along the Bosphorus over to Kadıköy, Haydarpaşa is one landmark you can't help but notice. I often wonder about the thousands of people who have passed through here. Now, I'll just have to continue to wonder as another historical building closes.

Thursday, February 2, 2012


Surviving Istanbul's worst winter in 30+ years

Dressed in three layers of tights, two woolen hats and one winter coat, yesterday I ventured into Sultanahmet with my camera.

I wanted to take some photos of Istanbul's most-visited historical buildings covered in a white veil of snow. This was the quietest I have ever seen Sultanahmet!
The Ayasofya covered in snow!
Apparently, I still looked like a tourist and was stopped by several Turkish men while I treaded carefully on the snowy roads. No, I don't want to buy a carpet. I live in Istanbul, and I want to take pictures of the snow. Yes, the view is çok güzel.

The snow fell quickly. Then, it stopped, and the sun came out for awhile. But the snow would start up again and the wind would start blowing. In between, the snow coming down like dollops of  fluffy meringue, I snapped as many photos as I could.

Over by the Küçük Ayasofya Camii (Little Hagia Sophia Mosque), five young, local kids recruited me for a friendly snowball fight, and I built a small snowman for them. The oldest gal, about 12 years-old or so, spoke a little English and she told me they've never had so much snow to play in Istanbul.
These were some of playmates in the snow yesterday in Sultanahmet.
I enjoyed the snow and walking through the eerily quiet Sultanahmet, but I'd like the sun to come back please!
The quiet Hippodrome and the Blue Mosque in the background.
I loved the way the sun came out when I was on this colorful street.

Turkish pride by the Küçük Ayasofya Camii in Sultanahmet. 
Abandoned in Sultanahmet
Taking a break from the snowstorm at Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii. 
These kids were quite the hams for my camera.
Then, the sun came out again by the Blue Mosque.
Some local street workers put the finishing touch on this snowman near
the Sultanahmet tramvay.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012


In early January, I had a whole week to show off Istanbul to my friends. This was just enough time to give them a taste, a chance to fall in love with the city and a desire to return someday.

So, imagine only having 1 day - basically 8 daylight hours - to see as much as one could in this magnificent city that spans 2 continents. 

You might say it's impossible and certainly unfair. How can you see thousands of years of history in just 8 hours?

Well, I did it. 

In October, I put together a tight, organized schedule and showed my husband's colleague, Hugh, the top highlights in Sultanahmet in just 8 hours.

I proved it IS possible, but it's certainly not the way I recommend visiting Istanbul. Heck, even after 19 months of living here, I'm still discovering new areas and pieces of the city's history.
  
Here's how to visit Istanbul in 8 hours:

1. Arriving in Sultanahmet
9 a.m. - Take the convenient tram and get off at the Sultanahmet stop. Arrive at Ayasofya around 9 a.m. to avoid the long lines. The mega tour buses show up between 9:30 and 10 a.m. and the ticket line grows exponentially. Take 45 minutes to admire this beautiful church turned mosque turned museum. (Note: our recent guests spent two hours in awe and taking photos inside Ayasofya.)

Inside the Ayasofya - taken from the second floor.
2. Hippodrome area
10 a.m. - Walk across the square and through the Hippodrome area near the Blue Mosque. Try to imagine the rowdy chariot races, javelin games and other ancient practices that took place here.

Starting at the northern end of the Hippodrome, snap some quick photos of the Fountain of Wilhelm II, the Obelisk of Tutmosis III (dating to 13th century B.C.), the bronze Serpentine Column and the Magnetic Column or the Walled Obelisk.
The Fountain of Wilhelm II was built in Germany and assembled in Istanbul in 1895. 
3. Blue tiles = Blue Mosque
Now, you must get in line to see the inside of Sultanahmet's most visited mosques - the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii). Pay attention to the times of ezan (Muslim call to prayer) because the mosque closes to visitors during that time for about an hour. Mid-day and late afternoon are two times to avoid, but the ezan changes from day to day according to the sunrise and sunset.
Even Turkish cats enjoy sunny themselves by the Blue Mosque.
Dating back to 1609, the Blue Mosque gets its nickname from the abundant use of decorative Iznik tiles in many shades of blue and green. The tiles feature traditional Ottoman patterns of lillies, lale (tulips, which is my favorite) and carnations.
4. Playing in the Palace
Around 11 a.m., you should find yourself heading toward the Topkapı Sarayı (Topkapi Palace). If you are lucky, very lucky, you will see the infamous green parakeets up in the trees in Gülhane Park before you enter the palace's gates.

You can run through this sprawling palace and the harem in just under 2 hours. I've been there three times now in the past year and have yet to see the palace kitchen! I don't understand why it's always closed. Frankly, the harem is my favorite part, and I'm disappointed you can't pay an admission solely for this section.
One of the many ornate areas inside the Topkapi Palace's harem section. 
5. Lunch is served!
It's probably getting close to 1 p.m. and your stomach is rumbling. One of my favorite lunch spots is back by the tram, Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta, Divanyolu Cad. No. 12. Since 1920, this köftecisi has been serving up moist and delicious meatballs. Ask for a side of spicy red sauce and some rice pilaf. Sometimes, I share a side salad with friends too.

6. Cool down underground
After a satisfying lunch, stroll over to the nearby 1,400-year-old Yerebatan Sarnıcı (Sunken Cistern or also known as the Basilica Cistern). Take about 30-45 minutes to snap photos of the 300+ columns and of course, the eerie Medusa heads at the end.
7. Bartering time
2 p.m. at the Grand Bazaar - In order to do the bazaar quickly, you basically need to know what you want to buy before you enter in this crazy maze. You also need help if you want to navigate the 4,000+ shops, 24 hans and numerous streets in and surrounding the bazaar. Most tourists don't have the time or language skills (luckily I have some Turkish skills), so you may consider hiring an Istanbul Personal Shopper like Kathy.
If you have room in your suitcase, you might want to buy one of these
 Turkish lamps at the Grand Bazaar.
At this point, we had a little over 2 hours to go, so we stopped at some of my favorite shops with Hugh's list in hand. We were on a mission to buy gifts for his wife, sister, mother and other family members. We chatted with the shopkeepers, enjoyed our complimentary çay, and our friend bought pashminas, evil eye knick knacks, jewelry, pistachios and a backgammon set.

8. One last stop
Congratulations! You survived a jam-packed day in Sultanahmet!

Even though it's 5 p.m., if you have time, make one last pit stop at Eminönü via the tram. Go inside the Spice Bazaar and say hello to my friend Bilgi at Ucuzcular. She has the most amazing spices and a peppy attitude!
End your busy day back by the Bosphorus and take some photos of the fishermen by the Galata Bridge.
There are plenty of restaurants under the Galata Bridge if you want to
 relax and enjoy the view with your beer.
Now, it's almost time for dinner and you have certainly earned yourself an Efes beer or two!

(Note: If you are visiting Istanbul during peak tourist season, such as the summer, I doubt this schedule will work for you. However, maybe it will serve as a rough guide of Sultanahet. We didn't have to wait in long lines since it was October, and I knew exactly where to go.)


Monday, January 30, 2012

Often while dining out, I get inspired to make my own version of a particular dish. Or I dissect said dish and figure out the ingredients and spices so I can replicate the food at home.

Recently, I enjoyed a light lunch with a friend at Kantin in Nişantaşı. This cute cafe is always bumping at lunchtime and serves an ever-changing menu focused on seasonal ingredients. For our first course, we both ordered the daily soup which was balkabağı çorbası (pumpkin soup).
Kantin's Turkish pumpkin soup was garnished with a dollop of yogurt, fresh oregano and ground black pepper.
For the last two months or so in Istanbul, I've often walked by small wooden stands set up in the streets or on sidewalks where a Turkish guy is cutting up fresh balkabağı (literally translates to "honey squash".) Usually, he must use a long, hand saw to cut through the tough, greenish-blue exterior.
Just off Valikonağı Caddesi in Nişantaşı, the pumpkin guy sets up his stall near the artichoke-peeling guy while across the street a second pumpkin guy holds his corner by the fresh juice guy. (I never understand the Turkish concept of setting up like-minded stalls literally right next to each other.)

Anyway, I bought a kilo of balkabağı at the Saturday pazar in Beşiktaş. I love the fact that the guys will cut AND peel the pumpkin for you! At home, I made a delicious, spicy, cumin-scented pumpkin soup, which only lasted 2 days, followed by a curry-based cauliflower soup. 'Tis the season for soup!

With the snow blowing outside here in Istanbul, it's a perfect time to make this wintery balkabağı çorbası. And, trust me, the fried garlic chips are worth the extra effort!

Afiyet olsun!
My version of  balkabağı çorbası at home in Istanbul.
Balkabağı Çorbası/Turkish Pumpkin Soup with Cumin Yogurt

Ingredients:
2          T.                                 vegetable or olive oil
1          med.                            onion, diced small
4-6       cloves                          garlic, roughly chopped
1          T.                                 cumin
1          kilo      (2.2 lbs.)          balkabağı (pumpkin), cut into 1-inch cubes
2          med.                            yellow potatoes, cut into small cubes
1          L.         (33. 8 oz.)        chicken stock or water
To taste                                   pul biber (red chili flakes), salt and freshly ground black pepper
120      ml.       (1/2 c.)             low-fat milk (Substitute whole milk or heavy cream for a richer taste.)

For garnish:                 Cumin yogurt - To make, stir in a good pinch of cumin powder and salt to (low-fat) yogurt and season to taste.
                                    Fried garlic chips (Note: mine only took about 30 seconds to fry. Strain immediately and place on paper towel to absorb extra grease.)

1.         In a large stockpot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute about five minutes, until softened.
2.         Add the garlic and cumin powder. Cook for just a few minutes. Then add the pumpkin and potato chunks, stirring with a large spoon and cook for a few more minutes.
3.         Then, add the stock or water. Add a dash of pul biber, salt and black pepper. Cover the pot with a lid and let simmer for about 20-30 minutes, until the pumpkin is soft.
4.         When finished cooking, add the milk. Using a hand immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings as necessary.
5.         To serve, ladle the hot soup into warmed bowls. Garnish with a dollop of the cumin yogurt and a sprinkling of the fried garlic chips. (Watch your husband eat said soup in amazement!)

Saturday, January 28, 2012


This will be a sweet opportunity!

In February, I will be teaching some special Valentine's Day-themed Baking Classes at my home. Get your girlfriends together for one of my daytime or night classes and learn how to make your own treats for your favorite Valentine and friends.

In this class, you’ll learn how to make an assortment of handmade gourmet cookies and sweet candies. You'll get to play with tons of brightly colored sanding sugars and sprinkles and melted chocolate in the kitchen.
I'll also whip up some homemade hot cocoa - which is sooo much better than the powdered stuff - for you to enjoy. Then, you'll get to take home your fancy goodies in a Valentine's Day-themed gift bag.

On the menu:
Homemade Hot Cocoa
Chocolate Shortbread Hearts with Sea Salt
Red and White Meringue Kisses
Conversation Heart Sugar Cookies
Black and White Dipped Cookies

The class will be part hands-on and part demo in my kitchen here in Istanbul. Directions will be given upon reservation. Cost is 50 TL per person.
Using royal icing, you can write your own sweet messages on the Conversation Heart Sugar Cookies.
Class dates:
Tuesday, February 7, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Thursday, February 9, 7-10 p.m.
Tuesday, February 14, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

If you are a member of the International Women of Istanbul, the Valentine's Day Baking Class is set for 10 a.m. Monday, February 13 at my home.

Later in the month, on February 25, I will be teaching a different chocolate-themed class at the Istanbul Culinary Institute. Please watch the school's calendar for more details.

I would like to offer baking classes on a regular basis, so if you are interested please let me know. Minimum of four participants per class. I also am happy to arrange kid-friendly baking classes for after school.

Happy baking!

Here is one of the delicious recipes that you will learn. It's just that right combination of sweet and salty together!
Chocolate Shortbread Hearts with Sea Salt
(Adapted from The Great Book of Chocolate by David Lebovitz)

Ingredients:
250      g.         Turkish pasta unu
50        g.         cocoa powder
1/4       tsp.      salt
230      g.         butter, at room temperature
125      g.         powdered sugar

Garnish:           sea salt and colored sanding sugar

1.         In a medium-sized bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder and salt.
2.         In a separate bowl, cream together the butter and powdered sugar, just until combined. Add the flour mixture and cream together just until incorporated.
3.         Divide the dough into two flat packets and wrap with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
4.         Then, on a very lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to about 1/4-inch (6 mm) thick. Brush away any excess flour using a pastry brush. Then, cut out heart-shaped cookies.
Note: Dough scraps can be rerolled once chilled again and cut into additional cookies.
5.         Place the cookies on a parchment-lined metal tray. Sprinkle sea salt and/or colored sugar on top. Bake the cookies in a preheated oven at 350 F/175 C for about 6-7 minutes until they are set.
Once the shortbread hearts are cooled, you can package them up and give them to a friend. Just keep a few for yourself too!

Thursday, January 26, 2012


As I searched through last year's photos, I realized how many I had intended to but haven't shared here on the blog.

So even though, I may be a tad late in doing a roundup of 2011, I wanted to share my favorite sunset photos taken mainly in Turkey and on a few other trips. I was surprised I didn't have any sunset photos from Alaçatı or Bodrum, but I think I must have taken a nap before dinner and missed out.

Hope you enjoy this photo essay!

§  In April, we drove to Edirne, about two hours from Istanbul. We paused on the Meriç Köprüsü to take this photo before we found nearby Emirgan Aile Çay Bahçesi and stopped for an Efes beer.
§  In May, while we celebrated my birthday dinner at Club Arma Restoran in Antalya, hubby took some photos here. I can't forget the sublime dinner we feasted on of levrek carpaccio and ahtapot izgara and the excellent service we received - including a special birthday dessert!
Even though the sun set behind us in Antalya, we enjoyed the sea view.
§  In July, we took our American friends on a 6-hour road trip to Bozcaada - a lovely island in the Aegean Sea along Turkey's western coast. Do as the locals do - bring a blanket and a bottle of wine to the far western edge of the island. Soon, you'll be sipping wine along the legendary Polente Feneri and watching the sunset behind the windmill farm here.
Perfect timing as a large ship passed by in the distance.
A view of the wind farm on Bozcaada, Turkey.
§  During Ramazan in the sweltering month of August, Jason and I took another Turkish road trip, which included stops in Cunda Adası, Foça, Bergama, Ephesus and Kusadası.
(Taken with my cell phone.) Day 1 on Cunda Adası.
Day 2: on the outskirts of  Foça - a small town about 130 km south of  Cunda Adası.
§  In September, I traveled with a girlfriend to Patmos and nearly got stranded on the island of Samos because of the Greek strikes. Please read: Strangers, Stranded in Samos for the harrowing tale.
Our boat was just coming into shore as the sun set by Patmos, Greece.
§  In October, we celebrated hubby's birthday in Fethiye where we had a fun, but short weekend jaunt. We walked down to the marina with a brown bag of Efes beer bottles and our camera. Drinking a beer in public while sitting on the boardwalk and watching the sunset is probably easier to do in off-peak season.
Seems like there are hundreds of sailboats in the Fethiye Marina.
§  For the Kurban Bayramı in November, we enjoyed watching the sun set over the Indian Ocean in Bali for the first time. This was an amazing trip!
Relaxing at the Nammos Beach club in Bali.
§  After I taught my baking classes in Bodrum at the Erenler Sofrasi, we stopped in the quaint, fishing village of Güvercinlik before heading back to Istanbul. Per Asli's recommendation, we ordered a levrek and çupra dinner with our Efes beer and then watched the fishing boats head to shore as the sun set.
The water was so clear and calm here in  Güvercinlik, Turkey.
Which sunset photo is your favorite? 

If you want to see more sunsets in Turkey, please check out Turkish Travel Blog and Turkey's For Life.