Happy Easter From Istanbul!

This weekend, many of our friends and family members are celebrating Easter with large dinners, chocolate bunnies and colored eggs.


Why should they have all the fun when we are thousands of miles away?


So we decided to celebrate Easter at home in Istanbul and share some of the holiday traditions with my husband's Turkish colleagues.


Celebrating holidays abroad isn't always easy. See last year's Thanksgiving Challenges post. But we're pretty good sports and make the best of everything as often as we can. 


First, I bought some Easter decorations and Greek egg-coloring kits from this small shop near the Ramada Hotel called Hobby Dekorasyon in the Pangaltı neighborhood. Thanks to another friend's recommendation, I found this shop. The staff is helpful, and the prices are reasonable. 

Second, I bought some Easter chocolates from Kahve Dunyasi. I'm surprised to see how many of the pastry and chocolate shops here in Istanbul are currently stocked full of Easter candy. Somehow, this traditional Christian holiday has worked its way into the Turkish world here. I'm guessing people are just partaking in the commercial aspect of  Easter and it's something fun for the kids to do.


Thirdly, we had to go to my friendly butcher guys at Kardeşler Kasabı in Beşiktaş and explain that we wanted a kuzu incik (lamb shank) to feed 8 people. But my version of a lamb shank and their version differed. 


So through our broken Turkish and some hand gesturing, my butcher just brought out the whole hind quarters of a male lamb. We just pointed out what part of the lamb we wanted and we got a beautiful 2.2 kilo leg of lamb. I can't imagine EVER getting this kind of service in the U.S.!


Jason found this cinnamon-cardamom infused recipe for Braised Lamb Shanks with Swiss Chard. He was in charge of making the lamb while I made hot cross buns, bulgur pilaf, my macaroni and cheese casserole, roasted carrots and potatoes with mint, parsley, dill and rosemary; and for dessert, individual ramekins with sour cherry clafoutis. We had a busy afternoon!

Our braised lamb shank about halfway through the cooking process.

But we got to share this delicious Easter dinner with Jason's Turkish colleagues and chat over wine. Then, we had fun coloring and dyeing Easter eggs.

Our Easter dinner table spread at home in Istanbul.

Happy Easter wherever you are!


Where to find seasonal and holiday decorations in Istanbul:

• Hobby Dekorasyon, Kurtuluş Cad. No:30 in Pangaltı, Sisli

Guess what we're having for breakfast for the next couple of days?

Our friend, Sinan, made Rastafarian-colored Easter eggs.

We used crayons to color silly faces and designs on the eggs before we dyed them.

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Sultanahmet at Dusk in Istanbul

Every time, I have visitors I fall in love all over again with Istanbul!

I'm spending my days showing off this wonderful city to my American cousins, who currently live in Switzerland. I sometimes surprise myself with all the historical tidbits I've learned here and now share with others. And I used to hate studying history 101 in college!

When you have visitors, they offer you a different perspective on where you live. They notice different things. They are intrigued, excited by and even jealous of things your city has or offers.

For example, my youngest cousin loved watching the jelly fish in the Bosphorus. Sometimes, it really is the little things in life.

Off to enjoy another beautiful day in Istanbul! This time, I'm packing my sunscreen.

Ayasofya at dusk in Istanbul

Blue Mosque at dusk in Istanbul

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Bosphorus, Çay and the Kiz Kulesi

In Istanbul, there are many outside spots where you can enjoy sipping your tulip-like glass of hot çay along the Bosphorus.

The breathtaking views along the Bosphorus never gets old to me! I love watching the boats pass by, men fishing along the Galata Bridge and families strolling along the waterfront.

My husband and I recently discovered a new location to drink our çay along the Bosphorus. One Sunday afternoon, we took a 10-minute ferryboat ride from Beşiktaş to Üsküdar – the quickest way to travel from Europe to Asia.

The seagulls soar right along the ferryboats.

Here, the vibe of the city instantly changes. The district of Üsküdar, Istanbul's oldest-established residential suburb, has a more relaxed atmosphere as well as being home to more traditional Turkish families. We saw few women who weren’t wearing headscarves and long trench coats.

Daily life in Üsküdar in Istanbul.

Along Üsküdar’s waterfront, the area is bustling with activity. Boats are arriving and departing about every 10 minutes. We strolled a bit through Üsküdar and then decided to follow the crowd along the waterfront.

Note: there are several mosques and a nice market area in Üsküdar that’s worth exploring if you have time.

After a 15-minute walk along the promenade south of Üsküdar, we discovered a busy çay bahçesi (tea garden) with one of the best views of Sultanahmet and the Kiz Kulesi (Maiden’s Tower). This small tower off the coast has existed since Byzantine times. You also can see the Topkapı Palace, Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque, the Dolmabahçe Palace along the European shore.

At first, I tried to hold my çay and take a photo at the same time. To the left is the Kiz Kulesi (Maiden's Tower) and Sultanahmet is in the far background.

This çay bahçesi is filled with wooden benches and stretches along the Bosphorus towards the bus station at Harem. We pulled up a front-row seat, ordered our çay and spent an hour both reading our books.

A view of the tea garden and it's bleacher-like seating.

At 2 tl per glass of çay and 1 tl for a simit, this is a very cheap way to spend the afternoon. Plus, the Bosphorus view is priceless!

Where is your favorite location to enjoy the Bosphorus view in Istanbul?

Fisherman along the promenade near Üsküdar in Istanbul.

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DIY: Homemade Blood Orange Soda

I just can't resist the sweet kanlı portakal (blood oranges) at my local pazar.

This weekend, we bought 7 kilos (15 lbs.) for 1.50 TL per kilo (about 45 cents per pound). Such a bargain!

I know the citrus season will be ending soon, so I'm trying to drink as much fresh blood orange juice and eat as many mandalina as I can. (See related posts about blood oranges here.)

The flesh of the blood oranges ranges from pale pinkish-orange to sunset to blood red.

Last week, I made a refreshing Italian soda of sorts with my pitcher of fresh blood orange juice. I added a bit of simple syrup to the blood orange juice and then topped off my glass with bubbly soda water. This is one of the simplest drink recipes I've done since I made the homemade ginger ale.

Take advantage of the refreshing citrus fruits while you can.

Soon, I'll be dreaming of fresh strawberry, peach and melon sodas!

Afiyet olsun!

For an old-fashioned feel, serve your blood orange soda in a small canning jar like this one. I found my canning jars at a Macro Center here in Istanbul.

Kanlı Portakal Soda/(Blood Orange Soda)

Ingredients:

1          c.         (210 g.)            granulated sugar

1          c.         (240 ml.)          water

As needed:      Fresh blood orange juice

                        Sparkling water (I used Uludağ Doğal Zengin Mineralli Su) or soda water

In a small pot, add the sugar and water. Cook over medium-high heat until the sugar dissolves.

Let the mixture cool until it is room temperature. Or make ahead, and cool in the fridge. (I always keep a small jar of simple syrup in the fridge for drinks and using in my desserts.)

To make a glass of blood orange soda:

This really isn't a recipe. I find the blood oranges differ so much in sweetness, so I would recommend adjusting the simple syrup and soda to your liking.

Approx. 2 to 1 ratio of juice to soda water.

Ingredients: 

Blood orange juice

Sparkling water or soda water

1-2 teaspoons  simple syrup

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Drinking Boza in Vefa in Istanbul

Trying new foods is one of the joys of living and traveling in a foreign country.

I'll try just about anything once. However, I had to pass on the fish eyeballs my husband tried in Little India in Singapore.

I'm also not a fan of Işkembe Çorbası - Turkish tripe soup. Apparently, this traditional soup is good after you've had one too many drinks, but I'll stick to the tantuni vendors off of Istiklal Caddesi.

Last week, I tried boza while exploring the Vefa neighborhood in Istanbul. I'd recently heard more about this strange Turkish drink thanks to Claudia over at A Seasonal Cook in Turkey.

Boza is made from hulled millet that is cooked with water and sugar and then left to cool and ferment. At first, I thought the mixture looked a bit like egg nog, which I love.

The bozacı ladels the boza from a large marble vat into individual glasses. The drink is then dusted with a liberal dose of cinnamon and garnished with dried chickpeas.

This guy loved showing off the boza to us!

I wasn't sure if I would like boza, but I wanted to try it.

Tip: Use a spoon.

Boza is tangy and slightly sweet and has the consistency of applesauce. That's why you need a spoon. The dried chickpeas add an interesting crunch as you "eat" this drink.

Well, I finished about half my glass and left it on the old marble countertop in Vefa Bozacısı.

Boza is an unique Turkish drink!

My verdict: boza is okay, but I'm not sure I'd try it again.

If you are visiting the nearby Süleymaniye Mosque, then you definitely must stop by the famous Vefa Bozacısı, opened since 1876. Vefa, near the Aksaray bus stop, is a quaint, ramshackle of a neighborhood that's worth exploring on its own. I took so many interesting photos that day.

As Claudia says, "Liking (boza) isn't the point." It's about experiencing a Turkish tradition.

And that I enjoyed.

What foreign foods have you tried and not liked?

These two workers at Vefa Bozacısı were kind enough to pose for some more photos.

The Vefa sign on a nearby sports club building.

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Spring Baking Classes Now Available

Since spring has arrived, I can't help but bake some of my favorite recipes with fresh herbs and even strawberries.

No fruit announces spring like strawberries do!

Yes, the strawberries are from the Antalya area greenhouses, but it's welcoming to see some color at the pazar.

So, I've decided to teach some spring-themed baking classes in April at my home. Learn to prepare an impressive spring brunch for your family and friends. I'll share several of my favorite spring recipes for a complete gourmet meal.

Spring Brunch Menu Class:

Strawberry-Mint Soda

Piped Almond Tea Cookies

Herbed Sablés

Individual Quiche with Seasonal Herbs and Kaşar Cheese

Strawberry Clafoutis - a rich French custard-like dessert

Here's a colorful version of my Piped Almond Tea Cookies dipped in chocolate and ground pistachios.

Class dates are:

Strawberry-Mint Soda

Tuesday, April 10, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Thursday, April 12, 7-10 p.m.

In the Spring Brunch Menu Class, you will learn how to make a classic French pâte brisée dough, which is used to make the Herbed Sablés and the crust for the quiche. Strawberries will appear in a simple fizzy soda and in a clafoutis dessert.

The class will be part hands-on and part demo in my kitchen here in Istanbul. Directions will be given upon reservation. The cost is 50 TL per person. Whatever treats we don't eat during the class, you will take home.

Herbed Sablés garnished with dill, parsley and sage.

But first, I'll end March by teaching a class with some of my sweet and savory favorites at the Istanbul Culinary Institute. This class will take place this Saturday, March 31, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., at the culinary school. Please contact the school to reserve a spot in this fun class!

Sweet and Savory Treats Class:

Cheddar Cheese Straws

Piped Almond Tea Cookies

Cinnamon and Sugar Biscuits

3-Herb Savory Biscuits

Crispy Cheddar Cheese Straws make a great snack or appetizer for a party.

Later in April, I am tentatively teaching two more classes at the school. Please watch the calendar for more details.

I would like to offer baking classes on a regular basis, so if you are interested please let me know. Minimum of four participants per class. I also am happy to arrange kid-friendly baking classes for after school.

Hope to see you soon at one of my baking classes!

Learn to make this Individual Quiche with Seasonal Herbs and Kaşar Cheese!

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Spring in Istanbul: Photo Post

After several weeks of depressingly dreary skies, bountiful rays of sunshine have returned to Istanbul.

With the sunshine and official beginning of spring, I've finally started seeing more signs of springtime life around the city.

People are flocking in droves to the outdoor cafes and seaside restaurants.

Irises and tulips are peeping up in the parks.

Grass, what little there is here and there, is turning green.

And trees are blossoming.

Springtime in Istanbul

Today, I was out shooting some photos with the Photography Club of Istanbul in the Vefa neighborhood. I snapped a few photos of these lovely budding trees, so I thought I'd share them with you. Hopefully, I'll have some more photos to share soon. (Claudia, if you are reading, I tried Vefa boza for the first time!)

Spring makes me happy! What about you?

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