2012 Intercontinental Bosphorus Race: Photo Post

Yesterday, we watched the swimming competition of a lifetime - the only one in the world that spans two continents just like Istanbul itself.

More than 1,000 people, including former Olympic-gold winner American Mark Spitz as well as U.S. Istanbul Consulate's Consul General Scott Kilner, whom I have met and even saw yesterday, participated in 2012 Intercontinental Bosphorus Race. The race spanned a course from Kanlıca on the Asian side near the second bridge to the neighborhood of Kuruçeşme on the European side.

The fastest swimmers finished the course in under an hour. The winners were awarded medals in seven different age groups for both men's and women's categories. See news article here.

Two swimmers in the 2012 Intercontinental Bosphorus Race in Istanbul on July 15.

We watched the swimmers tackle the strong current of the Bosphorus along the shores of Kuruçeşme Cemil Topuzlu Parkı. I took a ton of photos and even a short video to give you an idea of what the day was like. Click here to see a video clip of the 2012  Intercontinental Bosphorous Race inIstanbul on YouTube.

I was amazed to see all the swimmers either beat the currents and push ahead in the race, or get stuck in a place in the Bosphorus where they seemed to go nowhere. There were several lifesaver boats in the water in case people needed assistance as well as a helicopter flying overhead.

On the left-hand side, you can see one of the helicopters above the bridge that was watching the swimmers for any dangers.

Later, we even saw a medic helicopter fly under the Bosphorus bridge, but missed taking a photo because we were so engrossed in the moment.

It was scorcher of a day, and I was wearing a black-striped sundress. Dumb me! We decided to take a stroll along the Bosphorus for awhile.

We saw families having picnics in the park and kids playing everywhere despite the heat.

Turkish families having a picnic in the park on Sunday.

These two girls were having fun in the park.

Before we got to Arnavutköy, we also saw a wedding party on a gorgeous wooden yacht. Fancy Turkish wedding.

Turkish wedding party on the Bosphorus in Istanbul.

We ended up walking 3.5 km and rewarded ourselves with some nicely chilled beer at TAPS Brewery in Bebek. I swear it's the only place in all of Istanbul where you can drink a brewed beer that's not Efes Pilsner or Turborg on tap. Not that I don't mind Efes.

Look at all the boats passing through the Bosphorus after the waterway was opened following the race.

It was another beautiful afternoon in Istanbul together, but next time I need to remember to apply sunscreen if we are out for that long! Sunburned shoulders. 


Who else watched the swimmers yesterday?

Docking near the finish line.

Here you can see the results for the female swimmers age 30-39.

Fully covered woman on the left while young boy sits along the Bosphorus.

I kinda thought this photo was funny. One of the swimmers between two ambulances after the race.

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I ♥♥ Turkish Yogurt!

As an American living in Turkey, I was shocked to see all the varieties of yogurt when I first moved here.

Stop by any grocery store or a peynirci (a cheese shop), and you will find a plethora of yogurt in plastic tubs, clay crocks or glass containers.

Even after nearly two years of living in Istanbul, I still don’t understand all the varieties of yogurt. Neither do some of my fellow expats. Is there a handbook somewhere?

I understand doğal (natural) and kaymaksiz (without kaymak). But what about the other 18 varieties?

Turkey makes the yogurt shelves in the U.S. look boring where you basically have non-fat, low-fat and plain yogurt.

Then, you have all the varieties of fruit-flavored yogurt in the U.S.  I used to love these yogurts, but now I realize how much tastier and healthier it is to buy plain yogurt and add your own fresh, cut-up fruit.

In the U.S., the closest thing you can find to Turkish yogurt is the Fage brand of Greek yogurt, but that’s about it.

In my kitchen in Istanbul, I’ve fallen in love with süzme yoğurt  - a strained Turkish yogurt that is extra creamy, extra rich and thusly, extra fatty. But ohhh so good!

Organic Turkish süzme yoğurt served with fresh raspberries and a sprinkling of sugar.

Süzme yoğurt is the perfect substitute for sour cream and also is a key ingredient in some of my muffins, scones, cakes, my breakfast and even summerpopsicles.

This particular süzme yoğurt, I bought this week, is made by Elta Ada, an organic farm on the Turkish island of Gökçeada, established in 2004. Simply tir any type of fresh fruit into this thick yogurt, sweetened with a little sugar, and you have the perfect snack!

Gökçeada is Turkey's largest island in the Aegean Sea and is known for its organic farming practices. More than 400 producers are involved in organic viniculture, olive oil, animal breeding and organic vegetable gardening on the island.

Sounds like another place to add to my constantly-growing list of places to see in Turkey. I cross off one destination just to add two more to it!

Maybe one of the farms on Gökçeada would let me volunteer to work for a day there. Any takers?

In the meantime, I’ll enjoy my organic süzme yoğurt with a fresh batch of frambuaz from the pazar.

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An 1800-Year-Old Roman Bridge in Turkey

When you explore a new part of a country, sometimes you just get lucky!

Or lost.

We did a bit of both on our recent trek to Mount Nemrut in southeast Turkey.

After walking around the ruins of Arsameia, we decided to make the 3-1/2-hour journey back to Gaziantep. There are several other ancient sites in the area to see such as Yeni Kale (New Castle) Karakus Tumulus, the ancient city of Perre (near present day Pirin), Derik Kalesi (near the village of Datgeli) and Gerger Kalesi. But we just didn't have the time. 

Luck was on our side because as we rounded a winding bend in the motorway, just missing several cows alongside the road, I could see Cendere Köprüsü (Cendere Bridge or Severan Bridge) in the distance. I had been slightly pouting since I wanted to see this Roman bridge, but couldn't find it.

The Cendere Bridge is located in the background to the left.

The Cendere Köprüsü, dating to early 200 AD, spans a tributary of Kakta River in one single stone arch. The bridge measures 120 meters (390 feet) long by 7 meters (23 feet) wide. The highest point reaches 34.2 m (112 feet).

Until recently, cars and small trucks were allowed to use the bridge. But now, a new black-top paved road and bridge has been built, and the bridge is closed off, except to pedestrians. Nearby is a small area where you can pull off the main road and stop.

This farm tractor, pictured left, was collecting many of the rocks in the creek bed. Wonder why?

According to the Latin inscriptions on the bridge, the bridge was built by the Legio XVI Gallica, a Roman legion stationed in the ancient city of Samosata. It was constructed in honor of Roman Emperor Septimius Severus, who reigned from 193-211 AD, and his wife, Julia Domna.

The bridge was originally constructed of 92 stones, each weighing about 10 tons, but restoration work occurred in 1997. Three of the four remaining Corinthian-style columns measure 9-10 meters in height.

I can just imagine horses galloping over this bridge back in the day. And to think this amazing bridge is in Turkey NOT Italy!

If you are in the area, definitely take a few minutes to stop and photograph this Roman bridge. Or if you have time, bring a picnic lunch and join the locals here.

There were several families setting up picnics and even grilling with their mangal along the creek here at Cendere Bridge.

Our lucky discovery certainly proved that you never know what you'll encounter around the next bend.

* Note: We had a fantastic trip in this area, and it's fairly easy to do on your own like we did. We prefer to do our own thing, and it does help that we can speak conversational Turkish. Also, there are lots of tour companies that specialize in treks to Mount Nemrut and other sites around here.

My husband looks so small standing next to these columns.

As we were leaving, two young boys passed by, leading their donkey to the creek.

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Exploring the Ruins of Arsameia, Turkey

After watching the sunrise at Mount Nemrut, we headed down to the village of Karadut for an early breakfast of gözleme and unlimited glasses of Turkish tea.

There are several pansiyons here that cater to tourists wishing to explore Mount Nemrut and serve simple breakfasts. After surviving our chilly climb, we were cold and quite hungry. Karadut made for a great rest stop.

At 6 a.m., I found this scene quite comical. Chickens literally crossing the road in the village of Karadut, Turkey.

Once our bellies were satisfied and hands were thawed out, I plunked in the new GPS directions and headed for the 2nd century BC ruins of Arsameia (also spelled Arsemia). The road was a bit rough, and we drove past several herds of sheep, goats and cattle being led along the road to better pastures.

According to inscriptions by King Antiochus I, Arsameia was the summer capital and administrative center of the Commagene kingdom, founded at the beginning of the 2nd century BC, near the Kahta River.

After climbing a gravel-strewn, dusty path up the hill, we encountered an impressive stone relief depicting the Greek god Hercules shaking hands with King Mithridates, who founded Commagene and was the father of Antiochus.

To the right of the relief is a long inscription in Greek, known as the largest inscription discovered in Anatolia. This inscription describes the founding of Arsameia. (We didn't buy the guide book, so that's all I know.)

Up-close view of the Greek inscription above the cave at Arsameia.

Below the inscription is a cave that descends 158 meters, possibly leading to an underground room that was used for worshiping rites. My husband climbed down the steps in the tunnel as far as he could, but reported that it was steep and dark so he couldn't see much.

Entrance to the cave at Arsameia, Turkey

At the very top of the hill, you will find remains of the palace of Arsameia that once stood here. There's little to see except a few marble pillars and rock foundations, but the view of the countryside is magnificent. You can see why a ruler would want to build a palace here.

The remains of the ancient site of Arsameia. Where did all the stones go?

View from the hilltop at the site of Arsameia, Turkey

During our trips in Turkey, we try to explore as much history as possible. The ruins of Arsameia, on their own, aren't that impressive, but are definitely a must-see when you visit Mount Nemrut.

How to get there:

After you descend Mount Nemrut, the main road will fork to the right, follow this road to reach the ruins of Arsameia, about 20 km away. Or if you stop in Karadut like we did, you will have to follow the road out of the village and then you will see a brown sign for Arsameia, which is near the village of Kocahisar.

Save your entrance ticket from Mount Nemrut because you will need it to access the ruins of Arsameia. Or you will have to pay another 8 tl.

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Sunrise at Mount Nemrut: Photo Post

Looking back through my photos, now I can truly marvel at the vast beauty of the brilliant sun rising over the top of the Taurus Mountains in eastern Turkey.

But when I was actually there on top of Nemrut Dağı (Mount Nemrut) all I could think about was the bitter cold. My teeth chattered, and I huddled closer to my husband for warmth. Seriously, bring a winter parka, gloves and a hat if you brave the pre-dawn morning trek – even in the middle of July!

Hubby and me on top of Mount Nemrut in SE Turkey.

Nemrut, a 2,134-meter-high (7,001 ft) mountain in southeastern Turkey, is topped with an unusual tumulus believed to be the burial grounds of King Antiochus I (64-38 B.C.), the ruler of the small Commagene kingdom.

During the Hellenistic and Roman periods, the region that lies between the Taurus Mountains and the Euphrates River was called Commagene, originally established as an independent kingdom in 162 BC by Mithridates Kalinikos I. The kingdom was at the height of its splendor during the period of King Antiochos I, who succeeded Mithridates.

The burial site, topped with man-made crushed rock, is surrounded by three spectacular terraces and a temple. The site was adorned with huge statues of various Greek, Armenian and Iranian gods, which were toppled to the ground by later earthquakes. The statues’ heads have become some of Turkey’s most iconic images, used heavily in tourism marketing, and are now secured behind a chained-off area on the site.

Unfortunately, I had a difficult time capturing any photos of these statues and beheaded heads without other tourists and their shadows being in them as well. Also, our hands felt nearly frostbitten and the wind gusts were so strong that it was hard to hold the camera steady.

Here's a good view of the other tourists huddled under blankets on top of Mount Nemrut.

Despite these difficulties, I thought it was remarkable to watch the sunrise surrounded by thousands of years of history on top of Mount Nemrut. A site not to be missed when traveling in southeast Turkey!

Few words are needed once you see these sunrise photos below.

Hiking down from Mount Nemrut.

Just surrounded by mountains everywhere!

After our summer trip to Mount Nemrut, we have visited eight out of 11 of Turkey’s UNESECO Heritage Sites. We still have left to visit:

• The archaeological site of Hattusha, former capital of the Hittite Empire, located near modern Boğazkale, about 200 km. east of Ankara.
•  The Great Mosque of Sivas and the Hospital of Divriği, 200 km. northeast of Kayseri.
• The ancient ruins of Xanthos and Letoon near Antalya. These are two cities that made up the ancient federation of Lycia and provide excellent examples of Lycian tombs. 

Getting there:

We stayed at the Hotel Grand Iskender in Adıyaman, which was an 1.5 hour drive away from Mt. Nemrut (GPS coordinates 37.981281, 38.740797). There also are several pansiyon located in the small town of Kahta and the village of Karadut which are closer to the site. British writer, Pat Yale, provides more info in this helpful article about how to explore Mount Nemrut.

Where to stay:

Looking back, I’d recommend staying in the quiet village of Karadut, only 12 km. from the summit, just to save yourself from getting up so early.

Another option, recommended by my friend, is to do a homestay with a Kurdish family in the village of Yuvacali. This can be done by booking a tour through Nomad Tours Turkey. I had looked into this appealing option, but the timing didn’t work out with our schedule.

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Celebrating 4th of July Abroad - Year 2 in Istanbul

Yesterday was just a normal day in Istanbul.

While friends and family members in the U.S. celebrated 4th of July with fireworks and BBQs, my husband worked a 12-hour day, and I hosted a patriotic lunch with several American friends at our apartment.

As with every holiday abroad as an expat, we make the most of it. Thanksgiving, my favorite holiday, is the only one where I really miss being in the U.S. But I've learned to adapt and I enjoy spending time celebrating American traditions with my new friends abroad. (Here is last year's post about celebrating 4th of July in Istanbul.)

So yesterday, I prepared hamburgers with all the fixings, a ranch dip with yogurt, sangria and an old-fashioned Jell-O "poke cake." (I also shared my treasured baklava from Gaziantep.)  My friends, met through the American Women of Istanbul group, brought deviled eggs, a carrot salad, three kinds of potato salad, chicken salad and chocolate chip bars.

Our 4th of July buffet spread at my apartment yesterday.

I've had pudding poke cakes while growing up in the U.S., but I've never had a Jell-O poke cake. Apparently, this type of cake was invented in 1969 as a way to increase Jell-O sales. The basic recipe usually entails baking a boxed cake mix in a 9"x13"cake pan, poking holes in the baked cake, pouring a Jell-O mixture on top, and later topping it with whipped cream.

Well, I'd been saving my imported blueberries for this holiday and decided to make a patriotic poke cake with a bit of Turkish flair of course. The cake layers ended up looking more pinkish and purplish with white frosting versus red, white and blue, but we ate it anyway!

(NOTE: Blueberries are nearly impossible to come by in Turkey without paying an arm and a leg for a pint. Feel free to substitute another fruit to make a colorful layer.)

Luckily, I saved a piece of cake for hubby and grilled a fresh burger for him when he finally got home from work.

Burgers at home in Istanbul. 

Being with friends and loved ones is all that really matters when you celebrate a holiday abroad.

Did any other expats celebrate 4th of July yesterday?

Afiyet olsun!

I quickly took a photo of my Red, White and Blue Poke Cake before it got devoured.
The "pokes" didn't quite turn out as nice as I had hoped, but you get the general idea of the colored layers.

Red, White and Blue Poke Cake (Turkish Style)

Ingredients:

2          (9-inch/22 cm.)            baked, round white cakes, completely cooled and still in pans (I made my cake from scratch, but a boxed cake mix would work as well.)

4          c.                     lightly sweetened whipped cream (I whipped up 2 packages of Dr. Oetker Krem Santi with whole milk to keep it simple.)

1          pkg.                 Turkish or regular strawberry-flavored Jello-O (made according to boxed directions)

For Blueberry Syrup Layer:

1          c.                     blueberries

3/4       c.                     water

2          T.                     sugar

In a small saucepan, cook above ingredients together over medium low heat until blueberries are softened.

Stain the fruit, if you desire, discarding the solids. I didn't because I wanted the blueberries.

Then, add 2 Tablespoons of prepared gelatin. Let the mixture cool down slightly.

For Strawberry or Cherry Syrup Layer:

1 1/2    c.                     strawberries or cherries (I couldn't find strawberries so I used frozen sour cherries instead.)

1/2       c.                     water

2          T.                     sugar

In a small saucepan, cook above ingredients together over medium low heat until strawberries/cherries are softened.

Stain the fruit, discarding the solids.

Then, add 2 Tablespoons of prepared gelatin. Let the mixture cool down slightly.

Fruit syrups and Turkish gelatin ready to be used for the cake.

To assemble:

Using a skewer or kebab stick, poke 25 holes in the top of each cake, twisting slightly to make the holes bigger.

Pour the cooled blueberry syrup over one cake and the red fruit syrup over the second cake. Cover cakes with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the gelatin is set, about 3 hours or overnight.

Run a knife along the interior of the cakes. Flip the cakes over onto a wire rack or plate.

Place the blueberry layer on the bottom of a plate/cardboard cake circle, top with whipped cream. Place the strawberry/cherry layer on top. Spread remaining whipped cream over the top and sides of cake.

Let the cake set up for a bit in the refrigerator and then serve.

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Sunrise at Mount Nemrut

After a short, restless night, our alarm clock rang at 2 a.m. signaling us to get up.

We left our hotel in Adiyaman, with backpacks in tow, about 30 minutes later. Along the winding road, we could actually see thousands of stars ablaze in the black velvet sky.

We arrived at the base of Mt. Nemrut about 4 a.m. and the winds howled by our rental car. We both had on two layers of clothing plus jackets, but we really needed winter parkas!

Just for the record at 4 and 5 a.m. it's very frigid at Mt. Nemrut! I wanted my winter hat and woollen mittens!

In fact, it was so windy climbing up the mountain that I could hardly see and held onto my husband's hand as he pulled me along. After a 15-minute climb, we took refuge (with about 50 Turks) by some of the "temple" stones.

The sunrise was worth freezing my butt off for, but I didn't get to take the time to take really good photos. I could barely feel my fingers so that's when we knew it was time to go.

More photos coming soon. Now, back on the road to Gaziantep.

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