Colorful Photos of Kastamonu Market (Pazar) in Istanbul

Last year around this time, we were crossing items off our bucket to-do list for Istanbul.

Included on my list was a Sunday visit to the Kastamonu Market (Pazar) held in the Kasımpaşa neighborhood close to the Golden Horn. This pazar is a foodie’s paradise – filled with all kinds of special produce and homemade goodies from the Black Sea coast of Turkey.

It took us nearly 3 years to visit this pazar!

On the weekends, we often found ourselves traveling or not willing to get our butts out of bed to find this market. You must arrive on the earlier side, say by 9 or 10 a.m., if you want to get the best goods.

And trust me, when I say it’s worthwhile to get your butt out of bed and find this special pazar!

The tomatoes seem so fresh and juicy that I could eat them like an apple. That half kilo of butter was probably just churned a few days ago.

You’ll find mounds of köy ekmeği and other village breads stuffed with spinach, other wild greens and cheese. Oh my!

Darling baskets of brown village eggs, which will be about as free-range as you can ever get!

And during the spring, you’ll find baskets and tables filled with edible, wild Turkish herbs and greens. I don’t even know what most of these greens are, but I wish I did! I did purchase a half of kilo of the alien-looking Turkish hodan (borage root), and sautéd it with garlic, onion and pul biber. From what I understand, most of these wild greens are used for filling in yummy börek.

Does anyone know what this Turkish green is?
It almost looks like tiny spring bulbs.

I believe this is Turkish hodan or borage root in English.

Just perusing my photos again makes me want to be at the Kastamonu Pazarı right now!

After you’ve had a feast for your eyes, buy some Turkish goodies such as cheese, olives, breads and dried fruits. Head across the street from the market to Sururi Park and have an impromptu picnic on the rocks by the waterfall. That’s exactly what we did!

Afiyet olsun!

How to get here:

The Kastamonu Pazarı is set up along Toprak Tabya Sokak (off of Bahriye Cad.) in Kasımpaşa. The closest bus stop is at Iplikçi Durağı, and you can try mapping out your journey here on IETT. Or simply grab a taxi from either Taksim or Karaköy. The market is only open on Sundays from 6 a.m.-4 p.m.

If you enjoyed my post, you might like these from 2 of my blogging friends in Istanbul:

Istanbul’s Very Own Black Sea Market! by Claudia of A Seasonal Cook in Turkey 

Inebolu Pazarı: Shop in Istanbul Like a Local by Olga of Delicious Istanbul

Homemade Turkish jams, pekmez and pickles at the Kastamonu Pazarı in Istanbul.

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Exploring Şile – Day Trip from Istanbul

Şile - If you need to escape the hectic city life like we do now and then, then the sleepy village of Şile is the perfect place for you.

On Sunday morning, we made the quick decision to pack an overnight bag and hit the road. I’ve heard good things about Şile, a small town of 10,000 along the Black Sea, from a Turkish friend whose family owns a weekend house there.

Only an hour outside of Istanbul, we found Şile to be peaceful this time of year, and the northern Black Sea winds chilly. But during the summer months, this town becomes a popular and crowded beach alternative for holiday-goers and Istanbulians.

So, what can you do during the winter in Şile?

Well, we bundled up and took a stroll along the Şile Limanı (port area) where all the boats are docked. You’ll even find several small fishing boats, converted into restaurants, where you can enjoy a cheap and delicious meal. My sometimes-seasick stomach wasn’t up for sitting on a boat then so we opted to keep walking and watch the turbulent Black Sea crash against the giant cement blocks.

Here's a view of the Şile Limanı and Kalesi.

Walking along the harbor area in Şile.

One of the main sites here is the Şile Feneri (Lighthouse), which was built during the Ottoman Era under the command of Sultan Abdulmecid I in 1859-1860. The lighthouse stands at 19 meters tall, making it the second largest in Europe, and its light can be seen from 20 miles away, according to the nearby sign.

The Şile Feneri (Lighthouse) at dusk.

There’s a café right below the lighthouse, Kavala Park Café, but it must be closed until the spring. I’ve heard the owners sometimes will take visitors up to the top of the lighthouse, which must have an impressive view of the coast.

Also near the lighthouse is a large park where you can capture some good photos of the area and another historic site – Şile Kalesi (Castle). This crumbling castle dates back to Byzantine times but was rebuilt under the Ottomans on a large rock overlooking the fishing harbor. 

According to Pat Yale, a well-known Turkey travel writer and co-author of “Istanbul: The Ultimate Guide:” ‘This was originally the harbor of the ancient settlement of Calpe through which Xenophon’s 10,000 Greek mercenaries passed on their way home from sorting out problems in Persia in 400 B.C., as recounted in the “Anabasis.”’

If you feel like monkeying around a bit like we did, climb down a set of stairs from the park and carefully tread over some slippery rocks. You’ll have a different vantage point from here and you can explore along the coast.

Hubby climbing around on the rocks in Şile.

During the summer months, you’ll want to pack a beach bag and head about 3-4 km east past the lighthouse to a long stretch of sandy beaches along the bay called Ağlayan Kaya. There are a handful of beach clubs of which my friend recommends Life Beach. The Black Sea is quite powerful here so you should only swim when a lifeguard is on duty.

Here's the beach area near Şile along the Black Sea coast.

So no matter what the time of year, Şile is a perfect day escape from Istanbul. But if you want to enjoy the warm weather along the Black Sea, go here during the spring and summer months.

How to get here:

Şile is a part of the Istanbul public transport system so you can take an IETT bus from Harem via Üsküdar No. 139 and 139A. The bus ride will be at least an hour without any traffic. If you click on the bus numbers here, you will see the IETT bus map pull up.

Where to eat:

We had a pleasant, moderately-priced lunch of mezes and fish at Iskandil Restaurant (located below the Iskandil Butik Otel near the lighthouse). The view from here is amazing!

Melek Abla, located on the main street towards the Değirmen Hotel, is recommended and features homemade Turkish dishes such as mantı and gözleme.

We saw several different kinds of fish and seafood at the fish market in the Şile harbor.

Where to stay:

We stayed overnight at the Violet Park Otel, a new, clean small hotel in an odd location right off the highway about 3 km. outside of Şile. If we had known better, we would have stayed at one of the small, local hotels in town. You certainly don’t need to stay overnight in Şile, but you might want to during the warmer months to take advantage of the swimming pool and nearby beaches.

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Road Trip to the Black Sea

This past weekend, we took our first drive up to the Black Sea.

We selected the small village of Kilyos, about 35 km or 22 miles north of the Galata Bridge, as our final destination. This northern suburb of Istanbul faces the deep waters of the Black Sea and apparently is a popular getaway spot during the summer. 

In less than 45 minutes, we had traveled from the city center through the Belgrade Forest and arrived at Kilyos, also known as Kumköy which means sandy village in Turkish. Our location here is perfect because we are able to see different parts of the world that we have never seen before.

Upperview of the Black Sea

The weather finally cooperated. The rain stopped. The slightly overcast skies let the sun peak through now and again. It was a beautiful day to retreat from the city.

The forest is just beginning to show signs of autumnal bliss. The 5,500 hectares of woods are home to Istanbul University's department of forestry as well as rural communities and recently luxury housing and private schools. Along the sides of the road, we saw several groups of people carrying buckets and blankets and collecting nuts from the woods.

Speaking of the road, it’s a very winding stretch of pavement. Of course, my husband likes to think he’s driving on a race track and take the curves faster than I would like. Great fun!

When we arrived in Kilyos, we found an otopark. We walked on the beach, which unfortunately was strewn with a lot of litter, but you still could appreciate the beauty of the chilly Black Sea.

Seashells along the seashore.

Located near the water, there are several hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and small cafes. The area was fairly quiet, but then started to fill up with more people by 1 p.m.

For lunch, we ate at a restaurant, which I forgot the name of, that had outdoor seating and a great view of the water. We had a yogurt-dill dip and stuffed grape leaves for mezzes.

Then, we shared a Çoban Salatası and a levrek (sea bass) as our main meal. For dessert, we tried Kabak Tatlisi, a traditional Turkish dessert of pumpkin poached in a sugar syrup and garnished with walnuts. It was a delightful meal and a great day out of the city!

A different version of the Çoban Salatası 

This weekend, we are hosting our first U.S. visitors to Istanbul. I’m excited to show off our new city! Stay tuned for more Turkish adventures.

The Kilyos mosque

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