Top 10 Favorite Turkish Foods to Try in Turkey

When compiling my list, I realized how much I love Turkish cuisine and found it difficult to simply select 10 dishes.

Turkish food focuses on fresh ingredients and is packed full of flavor! Many of the dishes date back hundreds of years to the Ottoman era. Also, the variety of foods will vary from one part of Turkey to the next with the seaside towns focusing on seafood and garden-fresh produce; and the more central villages will have comforting, hearty dishes that center on meat.

The dishes I selected are typically found in nearly every city or village in Turkey. Whether you are going for a long vacation or late Turkey holidays, you will certainly discover a delicious meal here.

So here are My Top 10 Favorite Turkish Foods to Try in Turkey (in no particular order):

1. Throughout our travels in Turkey, the quintessential dining experience always involves Turkish mezes. Mezes are boringly labeled as ‘Cold Starters’ and ‘Hot Starters’ on most restaurant menus.

But, to me, mezes are really the star of the meal with the fish or entrée simply being an afterthought. You select several meze from a large tray that your server is presenting, you chat with your friends, you drink some Turkish raki and share in a good time together. Repeat for the next two hours.

Turkish mezes often consist of beyaz peynir (Turkish feta), cacık (yogurt with cucumber and garlic), hummus, olives, acılı ezme (a hot pepper paste mixed with walnuts), patlıcan salatası (cold aubergine salad), dolma (rice-stuffed grape leaves), olive oil dishes, hot or cold calamari, salads and more.

2. A simple grilled fish usually follows the mezes. You’ll find a variety of fish in Turkey, but the most common and my two favorites are Sea Bream (Çupra) and Sea Bass (Levrek). Try to stop by one of the lively fish markets on your travels.

 

3. Ahtapot (grilled octopus) is a somewhat seasonal dish, which is served with an herbed or spicy olive oil. Be sure to use some of your Turkish bread to sop of the delicious juices at the bottom.

4. Turkish cuisine, of course, focuses on plenty of meat dishes too. Adana kebab is a long, hand-minced meat kebab grilled on an open mangal with burning charcoal. This somewhat spicy kebab is named after Adana, the fifth largest city in Turkey, while the non-spicy version of this kebab is called Urfa after another city in southeast Turkey. Kebabs are served with charred peppers and tomatoes, an onion-sumac-parsley salad and lavaş (thin flat bread).

5. Köfte (Turkish meatballs) is another favorite in traditional Turkish cuisine. These simple, but tasty meatballs are made from ground lamb or beef or a mixture of both and seasoned with spices, herbs and onions. Children love köfte!

6. The Turks love soup! Look for Mercimek Çorbası (made from red lentils) on the menu. This soup is comforting, filling and a well-loved Turkish dish. 

7. Mantı (meat-filled Turkish dumplings) are traditionally boiled and topped with a garlic yogurt, melted butter and spicy red pepper flakes. One of my favorite places to eat mantı is at Ficcin in Istanbul.

8. For a quick snack or tasty appetizer, look for börek. Turkish börek are made from a flaky dough called yufka and are filled with cheese, meat, vegetables and/or herbs and then baked until crispy. I prefer the sigara böreği, which look like small, fried cigars and are stuffed with Turkish cheese and herbs.

9. Perhaps the most famous Turkish dessert is Baklava. This sweet pastry is made from layers of thin, buttered phyllo dough, filled with chopped nuts and soaked with a sugar syrup. Baklava is even more sublime when served with kaymak (clotted cream) or ice cream.

10. However, künefe is my most loved Turkish dessert! This sweet dessert hails from the city of Antakya in southeast Turkey and consists of a white cheese sandwiched between two layers of buttered kadayıf (similar to shredded phyllo dough). This sublime concoction is cooked in small copper plates, and then served piping hot in sugar syrup and topped with kaymak and pistachios. 

I’m sure you’ll enjoy these Turkish dishes on your next, or even your first, trip to Turkey! 

Afiyet olsun!

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Exploring Beautiful Bozcaada - Top 10 Things to Do

Surrounded by Turkish grape vines, restored, whitewashed houses and Mediterranean-influenced food, these are just some of the reasons we returned to Bozcaada two years in a row.

To me, Bozcaada, an island off the western coast of Turkey, is one of those rare, magical places where you can relax without hordes of tourists. There are hidden beaches and swimming holes to explore. A short walk down an uneven cobblestone path may lead to a charming café.

Oh, and don’t forget about the wine! This 15-square-mile island is planted with field after field of grapevines – a beautiful site to see in the summer and in the fall. Last year, the New York Times referred to Bozcaada as “one of Turkey’s most promising wine destinations.” 

Autumnal-colored, empty grapevines on the island of Bozcaada, Turkey.

In July 2011, four of us traveled to Bozcaada for the first time because we had fallen in love with drinking Corvus wine here in Istanbul. (Corvus is considered the most prestigious producer on the island.) Our plan was to drink wine and sunbathe on the beach. That was it.

Last October, hubby and I returned to Bozcaada because we just couldn’t resist. The island was more subdued at that time of the year, but was perfect in our quest for a relaxing weekend. With temps between 10-15 C, we didn’t swim in the icy Aegean Sea this time.

Like Turkey, this small island has captured my heart.

Here are my Top 10 Things to Do on Bozcaada:

1. Eat ahtapot! Who knew this steak-lovin’ girl would fall in love with ahtapot (octopus) once she moved to Turkey? I like this tasty Mediterranean morsel best grilled with lots of olive oil and spices. Be sure to save your bread for some dunking. Delicious ahtapot can be had at Şişman, Lodos and Mistik restaurants.

2. Go wine tasting! Bozcaada is known for its Turkish wines, so you can sample the likes of Talay, Corvus and Çamlıbağ in the city center. There’s also a new, hip restaurant called Bakkal that offers a large wine list, locally-sourced dishes and imported Italian pork salami on the menu.

3. Rent a bike. This was my husband’s brilliant idea, just like when we traveled to Bali. I like hiking, but I am no cyclist. However, renting a bike for just 15tl is a good way to see the island (if you don’t have a car), but be prepared for hills. Lots of hills! I didn’t remember Bozcaada being so hilly, and my legs were on fire the next morning.

4. Explore the beaches. The island’s beaches are a bit more fun when the weather is warm and sunny. We pedaled out to Ayazma Plajı, but it was deserted at the end of October. During the summer, the beaches, such as Çayır Plajı and Tuzburnu Plajı, are also good places to rent a chair and take a dip in the crystalline water. We even found several practically-deserted swimming holes when we drove around the island in 2011.

Grab a beach chair on the island of Bozcaada.

Or find a swimming hole like this one.

5. Make friends with the locals at the bar. Our hotel owners recommended the Oda Bar & Café as a fun place for 30+-somethings to hang out near the harbor. On our first night, we had so much that my husband got invited to a margarita competition the second night by owner Yeşim. My husband (just barely) won the competition and proceeded to make his famous nar-garitas for other customers.

Hubby made his famous nar-garitas for Turkish customers at the bar.

6. Stroll the cobblestone streets. The island’s town center is divided into Greek and Turkish sections, referring to the groups who originally built the districts. You’ll see a mosque and Ottoman architecture on one side and an old church with a tall clock tower and white-washed houses like you find in Greece on the other side.

7. Climb on top the Bozcaada Castle. In 1455, Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror rebuilt the castle on ruins that had been used by the Genovese and Venetians. In the following years, the castle, considered the best preserved castle in Turkey, was restored several times due to wars.

A nice view of the Aegean Sea from on top the castle.

A nighttime view of Bozcaada Castle.

8. Shop at the local artisan’s market. Near the harbor, you will find locals selling spices, jewelry, thyme-scented honey and unique jams made from rose petals and tomatoes. Try the tomato jam while you have your Turkish breakfast on the island.

9. Drink wine by the harbor. BYOB. Head down to the opposite side of the harbor from the castle with a bottle of wine in tow. Sit on the rocks and swirl your newly purchased bottle of Turkish wine.

 10. Watch the sunset. A popular activity to do is pack a bag full of wine and snacks and head out to the Polente Feneri (Lighthouse) on the western side of the island. You’ll notice the giant electricity windmills as you approach. Grab a spot by the rocky ledge, spread out your towel and watch one of the best sunsets you’ve ever seen in Turkey.

11. Fly via a seaplane. I couldn’t resist throwing in an extra reason to visit Bozcaada. As mentioned on recent posts, my husband and I flew the new Seabird Airlines from Istanbul for a long weekend in October. At 80 minutes, the seaplane is the fastest way to get here or you can take a bus/your own car and make the trip in 6+ hours. 

Update August 2015: The Seabird Airlines has stopped flying to Bozcaada, according to the Turkish news.

Once you get to Bozcaada, all you may want to do is eat some divine local food, swirl some Turkish wine and relax on the beach or in a white-washed chair.

The harbor area on Bozcaada, Turkey.

How to get there:

By car: take the fast ferry from Istanbul to Bandırma, and then drive 210 km to the port of Geyikli. From there, take a 35-minute car ferry to Bozcaada. Total time is about 6 hours. If you don’t mind driving longer, you can also drive west from Istanbul through Tekirdağ, and then take a ferry boat from Gelibolu or Eceabat, crossing the Dardanelles Strait. You’ll need to drive a bit more before you reach Geyikli.

By bus: Truva Turizm runs frequent buses from Istanbul to Geyikli. Then, hop on the ferry boat. 7 hours.

Where to stay:

Aika, a new boutique hotel in the city center, is ideal for couples or friends traveling together.

Çapraz Resort Hotel, located 3 km. from the city center, is more family-friendly and has its own pool and private beach area.

Previous posts:

Flying to Beautiful Bozcaada – Our Favorite Turkish Trip in 2012

Flying Seabird over Istanbul: Aerial Photos

An aerial view of Bozcaada's town center as we flew over in the Seabird plane.

Bozcaada grape vines during the summer months.

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Rakı + Balık = Ayvalık in Turkey

We certainly are not strangers to drinking the Turkish anisette-flavored rakı when we eat balık.

On more than one occasion, I’ve woken up the next day and regretted having that last glass of rakı. It seemed like a good idea at the time and we were having fun, I always say to myself after the fact. (Has anyone else ever felt the same way?)

Our first destination during the şeker bayramı was Ayvalık, or actually the small island of Cunda Adası (also known as Alibey Adası). This island to the north of Ayvalık is connected to this Aegean coastal city by a two-lane paved causeway where we watched the sunset. With an area of 23 km², it is by far the largest island in the Ayvalık group that dot the surrounding seawaters.

We were in luck because two friends from Istanbul were staying nearby in Dikili, so we planned to meet up near the marina and have dinner together on Cunda Adası. Another Turkish friend, Altuğ, recommended dining at Bay Nihat Restaurant so we could try papalina (sprat) - a small, popular fish similar to fried hamsi.

The restaurant was packed and so were the other dozen restaurants located along the marina. All the Turks were on holiday. This area reminded me of our trip to Dalyan, a small, quaint fishing village in Çeşme, last year.

While we waited for a free table, the four of us popped inside the restaurant’s kitchen area so we could check out the vast meze selection. Inside the large refrigerated display case were about 30 different mezes we could chose from for our dinner! The Turkish mezes always amaze me, and I think I generally like them even more than the fish.

The highlight of the mezes turned out to be deniz börülcesi - (marsh samphire) a strange-looking, but delicious Turkish sea plant that grows along the coastline. While we’ve eaten samphire before, we’ve never had it served with this scrumptious, garlicky Hollandaise-like sauce! All four of us were using the toasted bread to soak up any last bits of garlicky, juicy goodness.

The other mezes included two types of patlıcan yoğurtlu (eggplant with yogurt), izgara ahtapot (grilled octopus) and palamut (bonito), which was smoked and I disliked it immensely.

My favorite izgara ahtapot was garnished with lots of fresh Turkish kekik (oregano).

For our main course, we took our friend’s advice and each had a plate filled with heaps of lightly fried papalina (sprat). Jason later said his plate looked like a small graveyard as it was filled with the tiny heads and tails of the papalina.

After dinner, we wanted something sweet and went for a stroll to explore our options. My girlfriend’s Turkish husband, Murat, recommended we try the meşhur ada lokması (famous island fritters - sort of like a fried doughnut hole). We waited in line at one of the more popular stands along the waterfront called Zeytindali Cafe where a tall Turkish man donning a white tanktop and a totally '80s haircut was loudly calling out orders for the ada lokması.

The fritters, soaked in a sugary syrup, were served hot, dusted with a bit of powdered cinnamon and dried coconut flakes. We greedily surrounded the plastic packet and skewered the ada lokması with the provided toothpicks.

Fried, sweetened dough balls - a perfect way to end the night!

But wait, we didn’t. Somehow we wandered into a nearby open-air bar, ordered some Efes, played with the street dogs, chatted for another hour or two and finally stumbled back to our hotel around 3 a.m.

I blame it on the rakı!

Location:

• Bay Nihat Restaurant, Sahil Boyu, Cunda Adası 0266 327 1777
• Zeytindali Cafe, Cunda Adası, 0532 405 4324

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Happy For “Hamsi”

Eating amazingly fresh seafood is one of the joys of living here in Istanbul!

I usually make it to one of the “Balik Pazar” about once a week. I probably should shop there more often since we are practically surrounded by water from the nearby Black Sea, Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. (I blame it on my carnivore-like tendencies since I grew up in the Midwest.)

This past weekend, I finally had recovered enough and felt like my normal self. Luckily, we also had visitors coming from Bulgaria and they wanted to eat at a fish restaurant. One of my girlfriends whom I worked with in New York City is originally from Bulgaria and happened to be visiting her family back in her hometown.

Of course, Jason and I were happy to show off our city! Taksim – is the best place for guests to experience Istanbul’s varied nightlife at its best. On Saturday night, the main street of Istiklal Caddesi was completely full of people!

For dinner, I had made a reservation at Asmalımescit Balikçisi, Asmalımescit Mah. Ve Sofyalı Sk. No: 5/A in Tünel-Beyoğlu. (I think the restaurant has been renamed to Rakici Asmalımescit.) This was my first reservation I made entirely in Turkish! I was quite proud of myself! For the most part, I just had to know my numbers.

For mezes, our server brought out a large tray full of approximately 15 small white dishes. We selected a yogurt and pursulane dip, cold octopus salad, patlıcan salatası, mackerel, and some other type of fish. Of course, we also started the meal off with raki, the popular Turkish anisette-flavored liqueur.

The restaurant was full of people – all Turkish, which we saw as a good sign! And everyone was drinking raki too! The menu was in English and Turkish. For the most part, we try to practice our Turkish as much as possible.

Çoban Salatası and a fried liver meze.

On the menu, Jason was happy to see “hamsi” which are small anchovies. He’s been dying to try the hamsi - a Black Sea seasonal fish. October is the beginning of the hamsi fishing season, and it continues through the winter months here. These silvery, tasty morsels are lightly fried. Jason said they are like “fish French fries” and you must eat them while they are hot. (I had previously tried hamsi twice at a small restaurant in Yenikoy.)

Apparently, I have a lot to learn about this little fish. Just this morning, one of my local friends told me that I need to learn how to make hamsi with a fresh tomato sauce. There’s another Turkish recipe where the hamsi are deboned, filleted and stuffed with various goodies. Well, I’m happy to learn. Sign me up!

The rest of us ordered the “levrek” or sea bass. This fish is always fresh and light. All it needs is a little bit of fresh lemon juice.

Dinner lasted nearly three hours, and the raki kept flowing. It was fun to catch up with my friend and learn about Bulgaria from her, her brother and his wife. It sounds like Bulgaria would be good weekend trip for us, especially during the winter months for skiing. It looks like we can drive to some of the ski resorts in about five to six hours.

My friend, Rosalina, and me

Hopefully, we can cross another country off of our list and experience a different cuisine!

Afiyet Olsun!

This isn't the best photo, but at least you can get a general idea of how crowded the streets are at night.

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Aegean Coast Satisfies Seafood Appetite

At the end of Ramazan earlier this month, we celebrated our first “bayram” on the Çeşme Peninsula. The area, lapped by the turquoise blue waters of the Aegean Sea, lies about 1 hour west of Izmir, Turkey.

We heard the area was beautiful and was known for its long, sandy beaches and local seafood. We stayed in Dalyan, a small, quaint fishing village in Çeşme.

View of Illica Beach near Dalyan

While reading one of the hotel’s magazines, I’d seen pictures of octopus hanging on what looked like a clothes-line. I couldn’t wait to try it! I’ve only had “ahtapot” a handful of times in the states, so I was extremely excited to taste it directly from the source. 

At the Çeşme Marina, we dined on octopus pieces sautéed in butter, chopped garlic and spicy red pepper flakes. The octopus, which has a similar texture like scallops, was tender and delicious.

During our last night along the coast, we experienced an outstanding dining experience at Cevat'ın Yeri Dalyan Fish Restaurant, located near a deep water inlet surrounded by sailboats and fishing boats. We hadn’t even looked at a menu when our server asked if we wanted to select a fresh fish from the case to eat tonight. Of course!

 

My husband followed inside the restaurant where he had a chance to inspect the day’s catch. This allows you to select the exact size and type of fish you want. You pay for the fish according to its weight in kilograms, and the kitchen prepares it for you. He selected a local, small fish, whose name is unknown because our server spoke rapidly in Turkish each time I asked.

 

When my husband finally returned to the table, he told me he was urged to select the mezzes – small appetizers - after choosing the fish. Now, I was a bit disappointed. I still prefer to see a menu, even if I can’t understand all the words. I probably know more culinary words in Turkish than anything else yet.

From a multi-level display case full of meat and vegetarian options, he selected two small plates of red and green peppers stuffed with a fresh cheese and herb mixture. I also asked if the restaurant had an octopus menu item. The server brought us an octopus salad, which was served cold with olive oil and lemon juice. The dish was good, but I enjoyed the spicier version better.

Left to right: Ahtapot, Coban Salatasi, green and red stuffed peppers

The restaurant had a lively atmosphere especially since most of the patrons were crowded around two televisions watching the FIBA semi-finals between Turkey and Serbia.

When the grilled fish arrived, our gregarious server deboned it tableside and served us two portions. The fish often is drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice. The entree was a light, healthy way to end a sun-filled day.

Hopefully, I’ll soon be back in the kitchen and can prepare a fresh fish or even “ahtapot” for us.

Local fish simply grilled.

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