Exploring the Ruins of Arsameia, Turkey

After watching the sunrise at Mount Nemrut, we headed down to the village of Karadut for an early breakfast of gözleme and unlimited glasses of Turkish tea.

There are several pansiyons here that cater to tourists wishing to explore Mount Nemrut and serve simple breakfasts. After surviving our chilly climb, we were cold and quite hungry. Karadut made for a great rest stop.

At 6 a.m., I found this scene quite comical. Chickens literally crossing the road in the village of Karadut, Turkey.

Once our bellies were satisfied and hands were thawed out, I plunked in the new GPS directions and headed for the 2nd century BC ruins of Arsameia (also spelled Arsemia). The road was a bit rough, and we drove past several herds of sheep, goats and cattle being led along the road to better pastures.

According to inscriptions by King Antiochus I, Arsameia was the summer capital and administrative center of the Commagene kingdom, founded at the beginning of the 2nd century BC, near the Kahta River.

After climbing a gravel-strewn, dusty path up the hill, we encountered an impressive stone relief depicting the Greek god Hercules shaking hands with King Mithridates, who founded Commagene and was the father of Antiochus.

To the right of the relief is a long inscription in Greek, known as the largest inscription discovered in Anatolia. This inscription describes the founding of Arsameia. (We didn't buy the guide book, so that's all I know.)

Up-close view of the Greek inscription above the cave at Arsameia.

Below the inscription is a cave that descends 158 meters, possibly leading to an underground room that was used for worshiping rites. My husband climbed down the steps in the tunnel as far as he could, but reported that it was steep and dark so he couldn't see much.

Entrance to the cave at Arsameia, Turkey

At the very top of the hill, you will find remains of the palace of Arsameia that once stood here. There's little to see except a few marble pillars and rock foundations, but the view of the countryside is magnificent. You can see why a ruler would want to build a palace here.

The remains of the ancient site of Arsameia. Where did all the stones go?

View from the hilltop at the site of Arsameia, Turkey

During our trips in Turkey, we try to explore as much history as possible. The ruins of Arsameia, on their own, aren't that impressive, but are definitely a must-see when you visit Mount Nemrut.

How to get there:

After you descend Mount Nemrut, the main road will fork to the right, follow this road to reach the ruins of Arsameia, about 20 km away. Or if you stop in Karadut like we did, you will have to follow the road out of the village and then you will see a brown sign for Arsameia, which is near the village of Kocahisar.

Save your entrance ticket from Mount Nemrut because you will need it to access the ruins of Arsameia. Or you will have to pay another 8 tl.

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Sunrise at Mount Nemrut: Photo Post

Looking back through my photos, now I can truly marvel at the vast beauty of the brilliant sun rising over the top of the Taurus Mountains in eastern Turkey.

But when I was actually there on top of Nemrut Dağı (Mount Nemrut) all I could think about was the bitter cold. My teeth chattered, and I huddled closer to my husband for warmth. Seriously, bring a winter parka, gloves and a hat if you brave the pre-dawn morning trek – even in the middle of July!

Hubby and me on top of Mount Nemrut in SE Turkey.

Nemrut, a 2,134-meter-high (7,001 ft) mountain in southeastern Turkey, is topped with an unusual tumulus believed to be the burial grounds of King Antiochus I (64-38 B.C.), the ruler of the small Commagene kingdom.

During the Hellenistic and Roman periods, the region that lies between the Taurus Mountains and the Euphrates River was called Commagene, originally established as an independent kingdom in 162 BC by Mithridates Kalinikos I. The kingdom was at the height of its splendor during the period of King Antiochos I, who succeeded Mithridates.

The burial site, topped with man-made crushed rock, is surrounded by three spectacular terraces and a temple. The site was adorned with huge statues of various Greek, Armenian and Iranian gods, which were toppled to the ground by later earthquakes. The statues’ heads have become some of Turkey’s most iconic images, used heavily in tourism marketing, and are now secured behind a chained-off area on the site.

Unfortunately, I had a difficult time capturing any photos of these statues and beheaded heads without other tourists and their shadows being in them as well. Also, our hands felt nearly frostbitten and the wind gusts were so strong that it was hard to hold the camera steady.

Here's a good view of the other tourists huddled under blankets on top of Mount Nemrut.

Despite these difficulties, I thought it was remarkable to watch the sunrise surrounded by thousands of years of history on top of Mount Nemrut. A site not to be missed when traveling in southeast Turkey!

Few words are needed once you see these sunrise photos below.

Hiking down from Mount Nemrut.

Just surrounded by mountains everywhere!

After our summer trip to Mount Nemrut, we have visited eight out of 11 of Turkey’s UNESECO Heritage Sites. We still have left to visit:

• The archaeological site of Hattusha, former capital of the Hittite Empire, located near modern Boğazkale, about 200 km. east of Ankara.
•  The Great Mosque of Sivas and the Hospital of Divriği, 200 km. northeast of Kayseri.
• The ancient ruins of Xanthos and Letoon near Antalya. These are two cities that made up the ancient federation of Lycia and provide excellent examples of Lycian tombs. 

Getting there:

We stayed at the Hotel Grand Iskender in Adıyaman, which was an 1.5 hour drive away from Mt. Nemrut (GPS coordinates 37.981281, 38.740797). There also are several pansiyon located in the small town of Kahta and the village of Karadut which are closer to the site. British writer, Pat Yale, provides more info in this helpful article about how to explore Mount Nemrut.

Where to stay:

Looking back, I’d recommend staying in the quiet village of Karadut, only 12 km. from the summit, just to save yourself from getting up so early.

Another option, recommended by my friend, is to do a homestay with a Kurdish family in the village of Yuvacali. This can be done by booking a tour through Nomad Tours Turkey. I had looked into this appealing option, but the timing didn’t work out with our schedule.

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Sunrise at Mount Nemrut

After a short, restless night, our alarm clock rang at 2 a.m. signaling us to get up.

We left our hotel in Adiyaman, with backpacks in tow, about 30 minutes later. Along the winding road, we could actually see thousands of stars ablaze in the black velvet sky.

We arrived at the base of Mt. Nemrut about 4 a.m. and the winds howled by our rental car. We both had on two layers of clothing plus jackets, but we really needed winter parkas!

Just for the record at 4 and 5 a.m. it's very frigid at Mt. Nemrut! I wanted my winter hat and woollen mittens!

In fact, it was so windy climbing up the mountain that I could hardly see and held onto my husband's hand as he pulled me along. After a 15-minute climb, we took refuge (with about 50 Turks) by some of the "temple" stones.

The sunrise was worth freezing my butt off for, but I didn't get to take the time to take really good photos. I could barely feel my fingers so that's when we knew it was time to go.

More photos coming soon. Now, back on the road to Gaziantep.

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