Saturday, April 23, 2011

We are currently in Edirne, Turkey, for the weekend. This historic city, formerly known as Adrianople, is located about 2.5 hours west of Istanbul. This photo is of the Selimiye Camii built in the 1500s by Mimar Sinan. Amazing!
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(Apparently, my cell phone Blogger application isn't working with the photos. I'll have to try reloading it.)

Friday, April 22, 2011

I haven’t learned many traditional Turkish recipes yet, and I realized one of the reasons why is that many dishes take time - often lots of time - to prepare.

Not that I don’t have plenty of time on my hands and often spend it in the kitchen.

Take for example, kabak dolmasi (stuffed squash) requires the time-consuming process of hollowing out each squash, making the filling, stuffing the squash and then cooking them.

The other day I finally decided to give the recipe a go at home, especially when I decided to use these cute, spherical squashes I often see at the pazar.
I treated these squashes almost as if I were hollowing out a pumpkin for Halloween. Take a paring knife and cut around the stem, remove stem/lid and then use a spoon to remove most of the insides so you create a vessel of sorts for the filling. This process takes time.

The traditional Turkish way to make this dolma is to use the pale green kabak that looks similar to a zucchini. And of course, you could substitute the dark-green zucchinis you usually find in North America, Italy, Germany, etc.

Although this dish does take time to prepare, it is delicious. I just told hubby don’t expect to have it too often for dinner.

Afiyet olsun!
Kabak Dolmasi: Stuffed Squash
Adapted from “A Taste of Turkish Cuisine” by Nur Ilkin and Sheilah Kaufman

Ingredients:
6-8          round                 kabak (or about 10 small-medium zucchini)
1         lb.         (500 g.)      ground beef
1         ea.                        large onion, diced small
6         ea.                        garlic cloves, finely chopped
¼         c.         (50 g.) long-grain rice, uncooked
2 T. fresh parsley or dill, finely chopped                
2 T. tomato paste
To Taste salt and freshly ground black pepper

Garnish:
2 ea. medium tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
As needed fresh yogurt

1. If using zucchini, cut each one in half and scoop out most of the inside, leaving a ¼-inch shell. If using the round squash, core out as described above.
2. In a large bowl, combine the meat, onion, garlic, rice, herbs, tomato paste, salt and pepper. Mix well and knead with your hands (as if you were making meatloaf). Let the mixture rest for about 10 minutes so the flavors can mingle.
3. Stuff the squash with the meat mixture.
4. Place the squash in a large saucepan or stockpot. Sprinkle the tomatoes over the squash and drizzle each one with a little olive oil.
5. Add about 1 to 1 ½ cups (240-355 ml.) of water to the pot. Bring the water to a boil, reduce heat and then let simmer, covered with a lid, approximately 20 to 25 minutes. You want the squash to be tender but not falling apart. Remove from the heat and let rest for a few minutes before serving.
6. Garnish each serving with fresh yogurt.

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Today the brisk wind was gusting more than 15 mph.

I definitely was cold, and I had forgotten my wool hat at home. It’s supposed to be mid-April, but it almost feels like winter has returned.

As soon as I reached home, I decided I was going to enjoy a glass of Turkish çay to warm up my chilled bones. Turks seem to drink tea morning, afternoon and night. The guy trying to sell you a Turkish rug or silver jewelry will you offer you tea while you browse. Drinking çay is tightly woven into the fabric of life here.

I like çay and happily will drink it, but I haven’t taken to the tradition like Turks do.

Another tradition I’ve noticed is when I pass a cafe or a pastane people often are leisurely enjoying the afternoon with a glass of çay and something sweet. Today, I also decided to do that at home.

I stopped at one of my favorite baklavacı, Güllüoğlu, to grab a snack. Güllüoğlu, with several locations in Istanbul, is probably the city’s most well-known baklavacı selling several varieties of the phyllo dough-layered delicacy. The original Güllüoğlu shop is located in Karaköy, a commercial neighborhood in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul. The original is separately owned from the other Güllüoğlu in the city, and you can if tell the difference in the packaging as the Karaköy Güllüoğlu has the Galata Tower in its logo.

Once home, I brewed my Turkish çay, opened my box of pistachio baklava and sat down to read a book. (I’m completely engrossed in “Under the Dome” by Stephen King right now.)
I indulged in 2 glasses of çay and 1 and a half pieces of the heavenly baklava, feeling that slight crunch of the countless layers of impossibly thin phyllo pastry and the gooey syrup while I ate.

Buttery pastry, pistachios and a sugary syrup - what else could a girl need on a cold afternoon?

Afiyet olsun!

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

The shore road traffic crawled along at a snail’s pace once we got to Rumelihisarı.

We made a conscious decision, hopped off the 25E bus and walked the remaining 2.5 kilometers to Emirgan Korusu. We left the bus in the dust. We knew the traffic would be bad, but we didn’t think it would be çok berbat.

On Sunday, the rain stayed away so we headed outdoors to enjoy the 6th Istanbul Tulip Festival, which is ongoing around the city through April 30.
Over the past two months, I have been encouraged by locals and longtime expats to see the lale (tulips) as soon as they start blooming. Although several of the city’s parks are heavily planted with lale, Emirgan Korusu wins with the most - topping out at 1.72 million tulips with 112 different species. It really is an amazing sight to see!

Not only are there tulips in every pastel shade imaginable, but this one reminded me of a summer sunset.

The park is situated on a steep hill and overlooks the Bosphorus and the second bridge off in the distance. One of the hillsides was planted in what looked like a meandering stream of red and yellow tulips and dainty grape hyacinth bulbs.
If you plan ahead, bring a picnic lunch with you because the park’s cafe looked expensive. (2013 update: I've since tried the food and it's not that good.) There are plenty of picnic tables here. Or treat yourself to a Turkish gözleme or a bag of nuts before you enter the park. We ended up walking back to Bebek and just grabbed a meal at a lokanta along the road.

Although the weather was a bit chilly, I’m happy we experienced the Turkish lale in its full splendor. I'd highly recommend making the time to see the lale in Istanbul this month!



Friday, April 15, 2011

Today, I felt a blanket of comfort envelop me.

I truly felt at ease and content in my Turkish neighborhood – like it was home. After eight months of living in
 Istanbul, I recognize the familiarity of it all and appreciate it.

I’ve started to develop a routine, particularly on Fridays. I stopped at my favorite pastane, Bahar Pastanesi, and picked up some spicy crackers and these sinfully delicious chocolate pastries that are similar to an American whoopie pie filled with Nutella ganache. I must learn how to make these!
The satıcı at Bahar recognize me by now. Today, I had a brief Turkish conversation with him, telling him his pastane was my favorite and how I liked everything. He says thank you and tells me the pastane is çok eski (very old), since 1976. I think he also told me he's also worked there for several years, but I'm not sure.

I also stopped in nearby Şütte to show a new friend where to find some specialty goods such as imported cheeses and charcuterie as well as tasty Turkish meze and olives. I didn’t buy anything today, but I did say hello to my guys there.

On my way back home, I pass the same guy that always sits on the park steps with a cat in his lap while he begs for money. It looks like some of the stray female cats in the park have had kittens recently. Today, another man was selling bouquets of daisies that were displayed in a blue plastic wash bin next to him.

Across the street, I see the same man who peels artichokes and sells them to passerby every day. A few meters down from the artichoke guy is a man who’s always on crutches and sells “evil eye” pins. Another few meters away is an older man that sells random items such as hand mirrors, hats and wallets on a blanket laid out on the sidewalk.

These characters make up my neighborhood, and I’m happy to see them here.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

What does one do when being offered a large, raw, fresh clove of spring garlic?

“Taze, taze,” the satıcı repeatedly told me.

“Yes, I understand it’s fresh,” I wanted to tell him. But my husband and I both took a bite, nodded and smiled. “Evet, taze.”

Then, we bought a bunch of the yeni sarımsak (new garlic).


After we bought the garlic at the pazar, I decided to buy a kilo of pırasa (leeks) and 1.5 kilos of sarı patates (yellow potatoes). I was already thinking how I could use these ingredients in my kitchen. I decided I would make a version of the classic French leek and potato soup known as potage parmentier ala Julia Child

So the other day, I spent a few hours in the kitchen cleaning and chopping up a bunch of vegetables. I really didn’t need all those leeks. Most of them I placed in plastic bags and threw in the freezer.

Normally, you would use an equal amount of leeks to potatoes in this soup. However, I used half garlic and half leeks in proportion to the yellow potatoes. The soup gains a bit of richness by finishing it with whole milk or cream.

The soup simply smells and taste good. It tastes like spring to me! I hope you enjoy it as much as we did.

Afiyet olsun!

Bahar Sarımsak Çorbası: Spring Garlic Soup
(Inspired by Julia Child’s recipe of potage parmentier in “Mastering the Art of French Cooking”)

Ingredients:
16 oz. yellow potatoes, peeled and diced into large chunks
8 oz. leeks, thinly sliced
8 oz. fresh spring garlic, thinly sliced
1.5 qts. water or chicken stock
TT salt and freshly ground black pepper
4-6 T. whole milk or heavy cream

1. In a large pot, melt a little vegetable oil or butter. Add the vegetables. Sweat for about 10 minutes, until the vegetables start to soften. 
2. Then, partially cover the vegetables with about 2 cups of the water or chicken stock. Simmer 30-40 minutes until the vegetables are tender.
3. Add the remaining water and bring the soup to a simmer. Season the soup with salt and pepper.
4. Using a immersion blender, roughly puree the soup. The soup does not need to be completely soup.
5. Off the heat and just before serving, stir in the milk or cream. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

On Sunday, we explored a small nook in Asia.

Living in Istanbul, that’s not difficult to do since the city is located on two continents - Asia and Europe. But it’s fun saying it.

On the 15-minute IDO ferry ride from Beşiktaş to Kadıköy, we sat on the top deck so we could enjoy the view, albeit a bit chilly. You notice the juxtaposition of Istanbul’s skyline with its mix of century-old mosques, palaces of former sultans and deteriorating buildings amid the new high-rise apartment and office buildings.
The Kiz Kulesi was a medieval maritime toll-booth where ships passing through the Bosphorus would pay
a toll on the goods they were transporting.
Large freighters like this one often travel through the Bosphorus.

The Haydarpaşa train station in Kadiköy, originally opened in 1872, but this building dates to 1909.
Kadıköy is a large district on the Anatolian side of Istanbul. This bustling, middle-class district is located along the shore of the Sea of Marmara and faces the historic city centre on the European side of the Bosporus.

Once we landed, we headed to the right to meet up with one of our expat groups, which had organized that day’s walk. The idea was to follow the path along the sea-front from Kadıköy, but we hadn’t planned on the rainy weather.

We warmed up with a Turkish çay, bought a 5-lira şemsiye (umbrella) and decided to brave the elements.

At one point, you could look back toward historic Sultanahmet and see the stormy clouds following us.

But if you looked ahead, you could see the sun shining in the distance over the Princess Islands.
Eventually, the storm did catch up with us and the whole group of us were fairly wet. So, we stopped for ice cream! I enjoyed a cone of pistachio and chocolate chip.
The rain let up a bit, so we continued through the Fenerbahçe Marina where one section looked like a ship graveyard with various ship parts and deteriorating boats like the one below.

However, around the bend, I saw a plethora of new sailboats waiting to cast off into the open waters.
By now, the sun was shining, so we stopped to have a beer and chat. (You can see the continuing theme here, drink/walk, food/walk, drink/walk.) The stray cats nearby also took advantage of the sun, and I’m sure they were waiting for some tasty fish scraps.
Our 3-hour 5k walk was coming to a close. I was a bit chilled to the bone and ready to be home snuggled up on the couch. We caught a dolmuş back to Kadıköy and took the next ferry home.

We ended our day back in Beşiktaş with a dinner of Adana kebap, tomato-bulgur, yogurt and hot flatbreads. Not a bad way to end a Sunday.

Afiyet olsun!