Friday, June 21, 2013

It’s the middle of June and I’m still enjoying the ruby red rhubarb here in Warsaw.

During the past month, I’ve made rhubarb mini tarts, rhubarb quick bread, rhubarb-strawberry vodka (recipe coming soon) and two batches of rhubarb & strawberry jam. The Poles seem to love rhubarb as much as I do because I’ve seen it all the local markets. (Remember last year when I smuggled rhubarb from Nebraska to Istanbul?)

Plus, rhubarb is ridiculously cheap here! I’ve been buying bunches for about 3 PLN per kilo (about $1 USD). I’ve even stashed away two kilos of diced rhubarb in the freezer so I can extend its season through the summer. Yesterday, I bought another two kilos that I need to freeze.
Fresh produce from the Polish market at Hala Mirowska in Warsaw.
What I’ve learned from all this rhubarb madness is that making homemade jam is a pain in the butt! It’s been nearly three years since I made my last batch of Turkish Grape Jelly. I’d forgotten how many hours it takes to wash, cut and prep the fruit and then process the jam and how much the jam boils up like a cauldron of lava-like liquid and spills all over my countertop.

Because of the fruits of my labor, I now have about two dozen small jars of homemade rhubarb & strawberry jam sitting in my pantry. I decided I would like to have some homemade gifts on hand that I can give to new friends I meet here in Warsaw or for visiting friends.

I tested two batches of the jam and learned not to cook the rhubarb beforehand if you want it to retain any of its stringy texture. My first batch of jam looked a bit more like red fruit jelly versus chunky jam. I like seeing the rustic pieces of fruit in my jam. I also doubled the amount of lemon juice so the resulting jam has a nice, tangy, but sweet flavor.

Who knows I may even brave another round of jam making as a plethora of Polish berries flood the summer markets.

Smacznego! (Bon appétit in Polish)
At the Polish markets, strawberries are sold in these cute wooden baskets!
Polish rhubarb & strawberry jam served on top of my rhubarb quick bread at home.
Rhubarb & Strawberry Jam
Yields: about 12 4-ounce (120 ml) glass jars
Ingredients:
2          lb.        (900 g.)            rhubarb, washed and cut into ½-inch pieces
4          c.         (1025 g.)          strawberries, washed and mashed (I recommend placing the amount of strawberries in a large bowl and then mashing with a potato masher. Just mash enough to leave the berries chunky. Also, if going by volume, measure the strawberries after you mash them.)
4          c.         (880 g.)            granulated sugar (If you like really sweet jam, I saw some recipes online that called for as much as 6 c. of sugar.)
½         c.         (118 ml)           fresh lemon juice
¼         c.         (55 g.)              granulated sugar set aside to mix with the pectin
1          package                       Sure-Jell Fruit Pectin (or the amount of pectin needed if you use another brand. For example, the Polish version I recently bought calls for 1 package of pectin per kilo of fruit used.)
1. If you are canning the jars of  jam, you will need hot and sterile jars and lids. I like to run mine through the dishwasher on the hottest cycle and time it just right so they are ready to use once the jam is finished cooking. My machine’s cycle is 60 minutes, and I pulled the jars out around 50 minutes. Alternatively, you can place the jars and lids in a pot of simmering water. (See this excellent article for more canning tips: The Basics of Home Canning. I also re-read my grandmother’s Ball canning cookbook from the 1960s to refresh my memory.)

2. Meanwhile, in a large stainless steel pot (6-8 qt. pot) over medium-high heat, mix the strawberries, rhubarb and 4 cups (880 g.) of sugar. Add the lemon juice. Combine.

3. Additionally, I filled my 12-qt. pasta pot and strainer with hot water, and set in on a high heat burner so that the water would be boiling by the time my jam was done. This pot perfectly served as my water bath canner.

3. In a small bowl, combine the pectin with the remaining ¼ cup (55 g.) of sugar. Add the pectin mixture, stirring well to combine, to the large pot.

4. As the mixture cooks and fruits start to soften, I like to use my handy potato masher to crush the fruit a bit. This helps release the natural pectin so the jam will thicken.

5. Bring the jam to full boil – the kind of hard boil that cannot be stirred away. This could take up to 15- 20 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, stir constantly. Watch out for burning fruit on the bottom of your pot. I had to turn down the heat a notch or two because the jam was starting to burn on the bottom in a few places.

6. Once the jam has reached a hard boil, you’ll want to test the jam to see if it’s thickened enough. I like to place a plate into the freezer. Using the cold plate, I place a dollop of jam on the plate and see if it runs or not and whether it’s reached the consistency that I want. Alternatively, some people like to place a metal spoon in a cup of ice water and test the jam on the cold spoon. If your jam is too runny, you may want to add more pectin and bring the jam to a second boil.

7. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a large spoon, skim foam off top of the jam mixture. The foam can cause bacteria to grow on top of the jam once placed in the jars.
8. Remove the jars and lids from the dishwasher. Ladle the jam into the sterilized jars to within a ¼ inch of top of jar.

9. Wipe jar rim off with a clean, damp towel. Then place lids on top and secure tightly. (Be careful as the glass jars will be super hot from the boiling jam. Use a kitchen towel to prevent burning your fingertips.)
10. Next, place the jars in the boiling water bath canner. Be sure to have the jars covered with at least 2 inches of water. Process the jars for 10 minutes, in general, once the water returns to a boil.  

(Note: if you live at a higher altitude, you will need to increase the processing time. This website has a handy altitude processing chart and other tips.)

11. Once the cooking time has been reached, carefully lift the pasta strainer out of the boiling water. Use a towel-covered hand or canning jar tongs to remove the very hot jars from the strainer.

12. Place the jars on a towel-lined countertop and allow to cool for 12-24 hours. Once the jars are cool, you can check they are sealed by pressing down gently in the center of the lid with your finger. If the lid pops up and down and makes a popping sound, the jar is NOT sealed. If you place the jar in the refrigerator right away, the jam still will be safe to eat. (I had two unsealed jars in the first batch and just one in my second batch of jam.)

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

If you’ve been reading this blog for awhile, you know that we like beer.

We’ve drank our fair share of Efes and occasionally Tuborg while living in Istanbul. We were thrilled when proper ales showed up on the scene at Bosphorus Brewing Co. last year.

Now, since we’re living in Eastern Europe, we’re getting to taste all kinds of different beers – lagers, pilsners, ciders, stouts and even fruit-flavored ones (not a fan). Earlier this month, we traveled to cold and rainy Prague to meet our friends from Germany (a few of the same ones from our Zürich wine trip) and attend the 2013 Czech Beer Festival. The rowdy group of eight of us drank more than our fair share, and I detoxed for a week afterwards.
The Americans, Germans and a Swede all at one table at the 2013 Czech Beer Festival.
Since we’ve all toured Prague’s historic tourist sites before, we also took a day trip out to the Pilsner Urquell Brewery in Pilsen (Plzen), about a 90 minute drive away via a hired mini-bus with Bohemian Shuttles. The brewery offers several tours throughout the day in English, Czech and German and gives you a chance to see this popular green-bottled beer up-close at the source.
The Pilsner Urquell Brewery, established in 1842, was built along the Radbuza River and operated by several of Plzen’s independent brewers. The master brewer, Josef Groll of Bavaria, introduced the production of bottom-fermented beer with yeast instead of the traditional top-fermented beer. Before too long, other brewers started copying the new golden-colored pilsner-style beer; and in 1859, the brewery registered the “Pilsner Beer” trademark.
A historical illustration of the Pilsner Urquell Brewery in 1842.
Today, the Pilsner Urquell name is part of the SAB Miller global brand, which also owns Blue Moon, Coors Light, Gambrinus, Miller Lite, Peroni and Tyskie (a Polish beer).

We learned much about the brewery’s history during our 2-hour tour that took us from the bottling and production facilities through the old and the modern brewhouse and to the historic underground brewery cellars where we tasted unfiltered and unpasteurized Pilsner Urquell on tap straight from an oak lager barrel. It doesn’t get any better than this malty, champagne-colored beer!
Good thing we were wearing coats because during the cellar tour, we saw ice crystals on the ceiling overhead, and I was still cold! For more than 100 years, the beer was even stored in the cellars with ice blocks cut out from the nearby river to maintain a proper temperature.
The brewery had up to six-miles worth of underground tunnels at one point for beer storage.
After the tour, we were starving and stopped for a hearty Czech lunch and more beer at the brewery’s restaurant/pub, Na Spilce, which now occupies a portion of the traditional sandstone cellars under the brewery.
If you like beer like we do, be sure to check out the Pilsner Urquell Brewery tour while you are visiting the Czech Republic.

Information:
English tours are at 12:45, 14:15 and 16:15. Please check the brewery’s site for specific times and changes here.

Cost: 140 CZK (about $7.27 USD)
The brewery's production line processes 120,000 bottles per hour!
The historic copper holding tanks in the old brewhouse.
The fermenting stage in old oak barrels.

Monday, June 17, 2013

Yesterday, I took two buses and waited in line under the blazing sun for more than 75 minutes to get a bacon double cheeseburger at the Warsaw Street Food Festival.

The burger was good, but I was slightly disappointed in the city’s first street food festival hosted by local Polish chef Tomasz Jakubiak in the upscale neighborhood of Wilanów. Last week, I heard about the event via Warsaw Foodie, a fabulous foodie blog that sends out daily emails to subscribers about restaurants opening or closing and local foodie events. This event sounded perfect for me!
I’ll give credit to Jakubiak for trying to promote Polish food and local vendors. Apparently, he hosts a popular cooking show on the local cooking channel kuchina+ called “Jakubiak Lokalnie (Jakubiak Locally).” Jakubiak travels around Poland in search of the best and sometimes forgotten seasonal ingredients from Polish farmers and demonstrates recipes inspired from said ingredients.

It seems like street food trucks and burgers are the latest craze here in Warsaw. This American trend is quickly catching on as every other week I hear about new food trucks and burger restaurants around the city. The latest burger place, Yellow Taxi, just opened last week near our neighborhood in central Warsaw.
The two busy cooks at Bobby Burger's truck stand at the Warsaw Street Food Festival.
My delicious bacon double cheeseburger that I wolfed down in like five minutes after standing in line forever. 
The foodie festival would have been more fun with friends, but hubby is out of town for work and I don’t know many people yet so I went solo. I also wish there was a beer tent. Apparently, I missed the memo about BYOB as many youngsters were bringing beer with them, perhaps from a nearby convenience store. Sigh! At least, I got myself out there.

I did enjoy walking around the tent-speckled park checking out the different food vendors and people watching in my new city. The vendors included Bobby Burger, Town Burger, Cheeseburger Slowfood, Zapiekanka Snack Bus, baked potatoes from Groole and sausages from Wurst Kiosk. There was Mexican-looking street food such as tacos and burritos from Spoco Loco and Dos Tacos. Local DJs played upbeat music to the hundreds of festival participants.

Funny enough, the loaded baked potatoes reminded me an awfully lot like Turkish kumpir, but the grilled kielbasa and zapiekanki, a toasted baguette with cheese and toppings, were all Polish.

Hope you enjoy these photos from Warsaw! Smacznego!
I bought a round of local herbed goat cheese from this food vendor.
Polish open-faced sandwiches.
Polish pate on homemade bread.
Fried Polish pancakes served with sour cream and dill.
Lots and lots of Polish sausages and cured meats.

Friday, June 14, 2013

I wish I had started my days earlier in Budapest so I could have consumed more pastries.

I’d heard about the city’s multitude of fancy coffee houses, but still I was unprepared for the amazing pastries and lovely places I encountered. During the 19th century, at its peak, Budapest had more than 700 coffee houses. Now, that’s a lot of coffee!

My first stop was at the Alexandra Bookstore, a modern-looking bookstore cum wineshop, until you ascend the escalator to Lotz Terem Café on the second floor. Your eyes immediately gravitate toward the breathtaking ceiling, painted in a bold Renaissance style by Károly Lotz in 1910. (His paintings also decorate the rooms of the Parliament building.)
I could imagine plunking myself down in one of the café’s armchairs, nestled in a corner with a good book and a strong latté and spending a whole afternoon here. Nearby, a handsome Hungarian man was playing classical piano music. This place is the ultimate bookstore!

At Lotz, I ordered a latté and a slice of the infamous Hungarian Dobos torte, a five-layer sponge cake with chocolate buttercream and garnished with a hard caramel glaze. The cake was invented by Hungarian confectioner József C. Dobos, introduced at the National General Exhibition of Budapest in 1885 and presented to the Emperor of Austria Franz Joseph I and his wife. Now, this cake is definitely one for royalty!
On my second day strolling around Budapest’s Fisherman’s Bastion and Buda Castle, I dragged hubby to the nearby historical, quaint coffee house of Ruszwurm. This is one of the city’s oldest pastry shops, opened in 1827 by Hungarian confectioner Ferenc Schwabl. The interior of this cozy and always crowded shop, named after its owner Vilmos Ruszwurm, from 1884 to 1922, even has some of the original 1840s Empire-style furniture.

Ruszwurm isn’t a place to linger long as plenty of other tourists are waiting to grab a seat and sample another decadent bite of Dobos torte. However, I think it’s worth waiting for a table to taste a delicious bite of history.
A decadent chocolate cake for hubby and another slice of Dobos torte for me at Ruszwurm in Budapest.
My most expensive coffee house visit was at The New York Café (New York Kávéház) located on a picturesque boulevard inside the luxurious Boscolo Budapest Hotel (formerly the New York Palace). One of my Istanbul friends, Elaine, had urged me to go to this café, telling me that I would love it. She was right!

As soon as I walked inside, I took a step back in time and was greeted by gorgeous frescoes on the ceiling, gilded columns and stunning crystal chandeliers. This café, originally built by the New York Life Insurance Company as its local head office in 1894, once served as the local hangout for Hungarian writers, newspaper editors, poets and artists. Luckily, the building survived World War II, Communist rule, a sporting goods shop conversion, neglect and finally was restored to its original splendor in 2006 and converted into the Boscolo Budapest Hotel.
Interior of The New York Café in Budapest.
Since I was solo, I treated myself to a fancy lunch of mixed greens with grilled rabbit, a glass of Hungarian white wine and of course, dessert, a sublime piece of “crunchy nut cake.” This sweet confection contained layers of a hazelnut dacquiose cake, a praline mousse and caramel glaze – at least that’s what I determined. This is the type of dessert I would have made at any of the restaurants I previously worked at in the U.S.
Service is a bit harried here, but I took it all in stride and enjoyed my 90 minutes of people watching and leisurely lunch. The atmosphere and delectable dessert was well worth the 10,000 HUF ($45) price tag!

My only complaint is the nearby table of five older women that only ordered pasta and coffee drinks. If you’re going to visit the New York Café , you damned well better order dessert. You’d be crazy not to!

Budapest has dozens of coffee houses throughout the city, but these were three I visited and would return to in a second.

Locations:
Alexandra Bookstore, Andrássy út 39, near the Oktogon metro stop, Budapest

The New York Café (New York Kávéház), Erzsébet körút 9-11, Budapest

Ruszwurm, Szentháromság St 7, near the Buda Castle, Budapest
 The amazing pastry display case at the Lotz Terem Café in Budapest.

Monday, June 10, 2013

For nearly two weeks, I’ve been glued to my Twitter feed and Facebook updates via my friends in Istanbul and throughout Turkey.

Since I called Istanbul home for nearly three years, it’s been heartbreaking to watch all the news unfold about the Gezi Park protests, which started on May 31, and not be there. Several of the protests occurred literally in our former backyard of Beşiktaş. The tear gas would have seeped into our apartment building.
A view of Gezi Park in Istanbul's Taksim Square as seen from the Intercontinental Hotel's bar. Taken in February 2013. 
I want to march with my friends. I want to proudly wave my Turkish flag. I want to be çapuling on the streets too.

(For those who don’t know, the Turkish prime minister negatively referred to the protesters as çapulcu which means looters. Since then, the term has taken on a life of its own for the nationwide protesters. My friends are çapuling through the Istanbul streets every night – banging their pots and pans, blowing whistles and standing up for their rights. They are not looting. On Twitter, the term has spread via hashtags, including #çapuling, # çapulcu, #capuling, #chappuling, #everydayimcapuling and #everydayimçapuling. There’s even a YouTube video: Every day I’m çapuling.)

I wasn’t going to write about the protests, but I don’t see how I could NOT write about them either. The nationwide protests are not just about a small park being destroyed for a shopping mall anymore.

At the heart of the matter is fundamental rights that us Americans take for granted – freedom of speech and the right to peacefully assemble. Everyone should have these basic rights. Instead, these people are shot down with tear gas canisters, plastic bullets and water cannons because they are standing up to the government for these rights and much more.

Green Space

Before we left Istanbul, we re-visited the Istanbul Sapphire, the city’s highest building in the Levent neighborhood. Although there are many locations to view this beautiful city, the Sapphire gives you a different perspective since you can see all the way to the Black Sea, Sea of Marmara and along the Bosphorus
My husband’s Turkish colleague, an Istanbul native, joined us on the viewing terrace and remarked that most of the city’s remaining green space is cemeteries. How sad! She’s right! The city is a concrete jungle.
Here you can see the "green space" of the cemetery in the Şişli neighborhood. 
For a city of 15 million people, it has very few parks, and Gezi Park is one of the few remaining green spaces in the middle of this crowded city.
Looking north, I guess there's still a little green space left by Maslak too.
As Istanbul continues to grow and expand, developers buy up any remaining green space and turn it into high-rise apartments. The city doesn’t seem to have any urban planners especially as construction begins for the city’s third bridge over the Bosphorus and the third airport. More than 2 million trees would be destroyed for these projects and could be a ‘threat to the city’s future,’ according to news accounts I’ve read.

I have to wonder, at what cost, does a city like Istanbul continue to develop? Will the new bridge and airport clog up the city even more? Will there be any parks left for my friends’ children to play in? Will Belgrade Forest even remain?

Although I’m no longer living in Istanbul, my heart is still there.

For more Gezi Park updates from local residents, please follow these sites:
The Istanbulian

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Imagine sitting in a comfortably hot 100-year-old thermal pool while snowflakes fall softly around you.

That’s what we did in mid-February when we first visited Budapest. No visit to this lovely Eastern European city is complete without a stop at one of its infamous therapeutic baths, in particular at Széchenyi Thermal Baths. This bath, first built in 1913 and expanded in 1927, is one of the largest spa complexes in Europe. There are three outdoor pools, 15 indoor pools and 10 sauna/steam rooms – all with varying temperatures.
Romantic and steamy is what the Széchenyi Thermal Baths looked like in February.
In May, we returned to Budapest and paid another visit to Széchenyi Thermal Baths for two reasons. First of all, you can’t help but enjoy yourself here. The buildings are gorgeous, built in the neo-Baroque style as much of the city itself, and the baths are relaxing and a little romantic. Secondly, we wanted to improve upon some of the first mistakes we made.

So here are my Top 10 Tips to Enjoy Széchenyi Thermal Baths in Budapest:
1. Rent a cabin instead of a locker. If you are a couple or with good friends, this makes the most sense as far as sharing space together. We also felt our goods were secured safely behind the automatic locked door.

2. Bring your own towels, swimsuits and flip flops. During our first visit, we forgot to bring towels and flip flops. We had to wait in a long line for 30 minutes to get towels and then were told we could pay only in cash. (Who carries cash in their swimsuit?) Towel rental costs 4500 HUF (about $20) each. Be sure to return the towels in the same long line to refund your money. OR skip the lines and bring your own Turkish beach towels which is what we did the second time. Our feet simply suffered on the cold floors.

Another tip: bring a plastic bag to store your wet suits and towels in after you’re done.
3. If you rent a cabin, you will receive a plastic watch that you must scan on a small box located on the wall on the first floor. The scanner will give you the number of your cabin, which also could be located on the second floor. This was confusing at first because we didn’t know where to go and no staff was around to assist us.

4. Skip the Thai massage. We thought a couple massage by two Thai women would be relaxing, but then we both ended up being twisted into pretzels and aching afterwards. Save your money for a special dinner instead.

5. Allow at least two hours of relaxation time at the baths. Honestly, if the sun's rays were warmer, I could have stayed there all afternoon.
6. Explore. Wander around the different pools and see which ones you like best. We found the indoor ones to be a bit chilly for our liking. I guess the idea is you take a dip in the hot thermal pools and then cool off in the others. I didn’t try the sauna/steam rooms as I can only tolerate them for about 10 minutes, and one boasted temps of 60 C (140 F). Hot momma!

7. In the summer months, you can avoid long lines at the entrance by buying vouchers at the tourist information offices around the city. You also receive a 10 percent discount if you have the Budapest Card.
8. Don’t drink beer in the pools. We were able to sneak in one beer each before we saw the guards making rounds and yelling at the mainly British stag groups near us.

9. Bring your own shampoo and other toiletries as you won’t find anything here. I wanted to clean up quickly before hopping back on the metro, and I needed to dry my hair since it was little on the cooler side outside.

10. Most importantly, relax and have fun. My husband and I spent two hours lazily floating by each other and people watching. The baths were exactly what the doctor ordered!

Have you been to any of the thermal baths in Budapest?
 
Location:
Széchenyi Thermal Baths ( Take the metro to the Széchenyi stop).
1146 Budapest Állatkerti körút 9-11
+36 1 363 3210