A-Z Guidebook: Rüstem Paşa Mosque in Istanbul

R is for Rüstem Paşa Mosque

Down the backstreets in Istanbul, you’re bound to find some type of interesting architecture dating back a few hundred years.

One of my favorite areas to wander was Eminönü, home to the tantalizing scents of the Spice Bazaar. Past the smiling sellers touting everything from handmade wooden spoons and baskets to local Turkish cheeses and coffee, you could even miss the doors to one of my favorite mosques here. The Rüstem Paşa Mosque, built in 1560, is one of the city’s architectural gems.

Designed and built by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan, who also designed the nearby Süleymaniye Mosque and other impressive structures in Edirne, planned Rüstem Paşa Mosque with a unique octagonal plan. Although small, the mosque is covered with intriguing Inzik painted tiles, particularly in vibrant red, which was a difficult color to obtain back in the day.

Also, as you look around, be sure to notice also the kündekâri doors of carved and inlaid wood and the intricate gilded trim high on the walls and ceiling in the vestibule. The mosque truly is a work of art!

A bit of interesting here is that the mosque was paid for by Rüstem Paşa, one of the wealthiest men in the Ottoman Empire as well as the son-in-law and a grand vizer of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent. Of course, his namesake mosque couldn’t rival that of his master’s so he selected a site amid the busy market, just downhill from the Süleyman's grand mosque. Rüstem Paşa also is remembered in history for having plotted with Süleyman's wife, Hürrem, to denounce Prince Mustafa, Süleyman's son and heir to the throne. Süleyman had Mustafa beheaded, which allowed Hürrem’s son, Prince Selim, to inherit the throne after the sultan’s death – and this started the long decline of the Ottoman Empire. What drama!

Anyway, the Rüstem Paşa Mosque is definitely worth seeking out when you visit Istanbul, don’t you think?

I’m linking this post to the monthly travel guide link up organized by Fiona, a fellow Australian blogger, at Tiffin Bite Sized Food Adventures. Each month features a new letter of the alphabet. This month is the letter “R.” Please pop on over to Fiona’s blog to read more travel stories or feel free to link up your own!

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My Favorite Spice Store in Istanbul

In 10 days, I’ll be back in Istanbul for a short weekend get-away.

I’ve already started making my list of Turkish goodies to bring back to Poland such as: cinnamon, pul biber, pistachios, walnuts, beyaz peynir, kaymak, 1 kilo of cocoa powder, Turkish olive oil soaps and more!

That means I’ll be paying a visit to my favorite spice girl, Bilge Kadioglu, owner of Ucuzcular Baharat, No. 51 at the Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar) in Eminönü. The store has been open since 1980, but the roots of this five-generation business date back to 1886. The name “Ucuzcular” comes from the Turkish word for cheap or thrifty and harks back to the wholesale prices Bilge’s grandfather offered his costumers back then.

I love visiting Ucuzcular and being surrounded by the familiar and exotic flavors of Turkey! The herbal tea blends, dried fruits and nuts and aromatic spices are enough to make my head spin as soon as I walk inside.

Bilge is no ordinary spice seller at the bazaar. She is a female running her successful family business in a very male-dominated world. She is educated, enthusiastic and full of spunk. I miss my nearly weekly visits to the market!

Bilge and me in 2012. I think we should get a better photo this year!

During the three years I lived in Istanbul, I got to know Bilge and many of her staff members as well as her brother, Ahmet. Everyone always greeted me with a smile. They offered me new spice blends to sample as well as a glass of Turkish çay. I would chat a bit with everyone as I made my purchases, wait kindly in the background if the store got too busy and steal the occasional Turkish Delight whenever I could!

As someone who cooks or bakes nearly every day, I often needed to refill my spice supply. I preferred to buy in smaller amounts because I knew I would be back soon. I have always appreciated the quality of Bilge’s spices and teas as well as her honesty. When I had a bad cold, she would whip me up a special tea blend to soothe my sore throat.

To me visiting Bilge wasn’t just about refilling my spice jars.

We developed a friendship as we chatted over the spices and our daily musings. And that is something I miss most of all!

Sonra görüşürüz!

NOTE: If you enter the Spice Bazaar from the front entrance, walk through until the pathway Ts. Then, turn left. Look for the blue sign of Ucuzcular on your lefthand side about halfway down.

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Reflections on Life in Istanbul

With a new year beginning, I cannot help but reflect on the previous year and our former expat life in Istanbul.

With the current political turmoil happening in Turkey, I’m constantly thinking about our good friends and what the future may hold. I worry. The Turkish lira is at an all-time low. The government kicked off the new year with hefty tax increases on alcohol, cigarettes andfuel. And you must be careful about what you say on Twitter; and, heaven forbid if you wave a shoebox in the air! Every day, I read something more ridiculous in the news.

In some ways, I am relieved we are no longer living in Istanbul. My husband’s salary would have been drastically reduced as a result of the lira weakening while the cost of going out to eat and drink would have increased. During the three years we lived there, our rent had increased by 20 percent. If we hadn’t moved to Warsaw when we did, we would have needed to find a new apartment anyway. Our life is easier and less expensive here.

Yep, I'm still in love with this crazy, congested city! 

When I returned for visits in July and September, Istanbul’s traffic seemed to only have gotten worse. Traffic jams started at 3 p.m. and would last until 8 or 9 p.m. Just a week ago, it took my friends nearly four hours to get from the Ataturk Airport to Bostancı on the Asian side. I do NOT miss the traffic! Now, it only takes me about 30 minutes to get everywhere I want in Warsaw.

But I do miss my friends, most of all! We made some amazing friends with Americans, Canadians, a French couple and with several Turks. To me, the good friends we made is what made Istanbul special.

Our going-away party in March 2013 in Istanbul.

Our friends, Ken and Earl, former owners of Denizen Coffee, hosted our goodbye party. I miss these guys!

Christmas 2012 in Istanbul with my girlfriends.

Together, we celebrated Thanksgiving, Christmas, birthdays and more together. We went on trips to Konya, N.Cyprus, Safranbolu and CundaAdası together. I’m still trying to cultivate those same kind of friendships in our new city. It takes time.

Let's just say our last night in Istanbul as residents included lots of Turkish raki, wine and mezes at a local meyhane in Taksim.

I miss seeing the Bosphorus. There’s something magical about drinking a çay along the banks of the Bosphorus and watching the world pass you by. Taking a vapur ride and seeing the city’s minaret-studded skyline never gets old.

On the vapur ride to Kadıköy, you'll pass by the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya.

Breakfast by the Bosphorus in Istanbul.

I miss my weekly visits to the pazar. Turkey’s fresh produce and the abundance of it is like none other where I’ve lived before. Right now, it’s mandalina and nar season in Turkey. Luckily, I have been able to seasonally find fresh Turkish figs and pomegranates at my local grocery stores.

Look for these fresh fruit juice stands throughout Istanbul!

I still miss the pulsating vibrancy and the tantalizing tastes of Eminönü. I think I could have visited this bustling neighborhood every day and always found something new. I cannot wait to visit again during March!

Outside of the Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar) in Istanbul. 

I must stock up on Turkish pul biber during my next visit!

I even miss hearing the call to prayer from the mosques throughout the city. Now, I hear church bells from my balcony in Warsaw.

As I’ve mentioned previously, I am learning to love many things about my new country here in Poland, and I’m finally starting to take Polish lessons this month. (Wish me luck!) I always try to look for the silver lining in any situation. Maybe in time, I’ll be able to wax nostalgic about it as well.

Until then and even despite of the current political situation, Istanbul will always hold a special place in my heart.

Sailing away on the Bosphorus in Istanbul.

(Dear readers, I'll be posting some more blog posts about Istanbul during the next few weeks!)

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Following Turkish Coffee in Eminönü in Istanbul: Photo Post

During my many jaunts in Eminönü, the intense smell of freshly ground coffee beans seems to follow me everywhere.

If you follow this irresistible scent, you will find at least a dozen people waiting in line at the small windowed-storefront of Kurukaveci Mehmet Efendi. This coffee shop has been roasting raw coffee beans, grinding them and selling freshly roasted and ready-ground Turkish coffee since 1871. That year, at the age of 14, the shop’s founder, Mehmet Efendi, took over the family business, and today it is run by his grandchildren, according to the company’s website.

I’ve seen a line here as early as 9 a.m. and as late as 6 p.m. Turks love their coffee, and you’ll see plenty of tourists buying it too. By the way, the line seems to move quickly.

If you know Turkish coffee, then you know the global brand of Kurukaveci Mehmet Efendi. However, you might not know that the shop’s coffee beans are roasted in an unassuming building a few doors away.

In the southwest corner behind the Mısır Çarşısı (Spice Bazaar), you will see a white Ottoman-scripted plaque dated 1912 like the one pictured below.

Step inside this han and bypass the small store that sells cheap, 200-meter rolls of baking paper (my favorite), plastic drinking straws and colorful paper napkins. On your left, you will find rows and rows of burlap bags filled with coffee beans from Brazil. Behind a nearby closed door, you’ll hear the roaring sound of those coffee beans being roasted.

To your right, you’ll see a small window where you can order your own cup of freshly made Turkish coffee or a glass of çay. Don’t be intimidated. Just grab a seat like I’ve done. It’s a unique place to take visitors.

The guys are friendly and willing to chat a bit if you want to practice your Turkish.

Then, sit back with your Turkish coffee and try to imagine all the footsteps that have passed through this Ottoman-era building. It may be a bit dingy now, but I'd say it just has character.

I'll drink Turkish coffee now and then, but I'd rather have a latte.

To learn more about Turkish coffee, check out this post from my blogger friend, Claudia, who recently wrote: Iconic Turkish Coffee - Turk Kahvesi.

Traditional copper cezve - or the cooking vessel of Turkish coffee.

Fancy, silver Turkish serving cups with lids so the coffee stays hot!

This is how you deliver a cup of Turkish coffee inside the han.

These Turkish guys were such great sports and posed for my photos.

More customers in line at Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi.

Location:

Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi

Tahmis Sok. No: 66

Eminönü

Tel: +90-212-511-4262

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Too Chicken to Try Chicken Pudding in Istanbul?

Generally, I will eat just about anything before I turn my nose up at it.

That excludes Turkish puddings. I hate to say it, but I’m not a big fan. It’s a texture thing.

I find most of the Turkish puddings to be chalky or starchy. They simply don't taste silky smooth compared to a bowl of freshly made French custard. (Note: I also don’t like shrimp because of the texture thing, but I will eat raw oysters. Odd. I know.) I’ve tried them and just don't like them.

So I have avoided the infamous Turkish puddings.

In Istanbul, there are dozens of shops called Muhallebici (translated directly as a dairy bar) that sell a variety of puddings. On a recent outing with Claudia of A Seasonal Cook in Turkey in Istanbul, I tried an extra special type of pudding called tavuk gögsü kazandibi (chicken breast pudding).

Grab a spoon and dive right into this special Ottoman-era pudding in Istanbul!

Yes, this special pudding, dating back to the Ottoman period and served to Sultans at Topkapı Palace, is made from shredded chicken breast. It’s a milky, sweet pudding that is enriched with cinnamon. The chicken is boiled, shredded and ground into a sort of paste. Then the pudding is slowly cooked in a pot until the natural sugars caramelize on the bottom, hence the Turkish phrase kazandibi, which means “bottom of a pot.” You’ll notice the brown “burnt” coloring in my photo.

In my opinion, I think you’ll find the best tavuk gögsü kazandibi at Kısmet Muhallebicisi in Eminönü where Claudia took us. This tiny mom and pop shop also is part of the Istanbul Eats Culinary Walks. I swear you would never even know the pudding contains chicken! And this pudding is smooth and NOT chalky like most!

And if you’re too chicken to try this delicious chicken pudding, you can opt for a dessert without. (Pardon the pun!)

I may be a Turkish pudding convert.

Afiyet olsun!

Location:

Kısmet Muhallebicisi

Address: Kazancılar Cad., Eminönü

Tel: +90-212-513-6773

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Eminönü Cookies – AKA Turklish Monster Cookies

When I walk through Eminönü, I can’t resist the overflowing bins of brightly colored candies.
 

There’s the Turkish version of M&Ms, gummy candies galore, sprinkles and a variety of chocolate candies.

When I recently stopped at Sancar for my regular baking supplies, my guys let me sample a new blend of mini chocolate chips in white, milk and bitter chocolate. There also were new raspberry-flavored white chocolate chips that I tasted and liked. What I love is that I can simply ask for 250 grams of something or let the guys fill a bag until I say “yeter (enough).”

As soon as I tasted the mixed chocolate chips, I thought they would taste perfectly in an oatmeal cookie.

Once I got home, I started looking through some cookbooks and online and found what I was looking for – Monster Cookies – by the Pioneer Woman. But I tweaked my cookies to use the fun ingredients I had on hand from my shopping trips in Eminönü. Thus, my Eminönü Cookies were created!

You too can use whatever ingredients you have – candies, chopped up candy bars, dried fruits, peanut butter chips, mint chips, and mixed nuts. But trust me, shopping in Eminönü is much more fun than your ol’ boring grocery store.

Once you make these playful cookies, you won’t be able to resist them either!

 Afiyet olsun!

Eminönü Cookies – AKA Turklish Monster Cookies

Yields: 5 dozen

Ingredients:

1 ½      c.         (160 g.)            oats

½         c.         (40 g.)              coconut flakes

½         c.         (75 g.)              nuts, your choice

½         c.         (100 g.)            Turkish M&Ms called Bon Bons

1          c.         (175 g.)            mini chocolate chips

2          c.         (90 g.)              corn flakes

½         c.         (100 g.)            granulated sugar

1 ½      c.         (340 g.)            brown sugar

8          oz.       (225 g.)            butter, room temperature

2          ea.                                large eggs, room temperature

1 ½      c.         (240 g.)            all-purpose flour

1          tsp.                               baking powder

½         tsp.                               baking soda

2          tsp.                               salt                  

In a large bowl, cream together the butter and both sugars until smooth.

Add the eggs, one at a time. Blending well after each addition.

Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a separate bowl. Add to the mixing bowl and mix until combined.

Add the oats. Mix.

Then, add the fun ingredients. You can vary the kind of nuts or candies that you use.

Mix just until combined. Do not overmix.

Preheat oven to 350 F/175 C. Use a cookie scoop or two spoons to form the cookies. Place on a cookie sheet about an inch apart.

Bake the cookies about 8-10 minutes until lightly golden brown on the edges in a preheated oven.

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My 3 Favorite Baking Supply Stores in Eminönü in Istanbul

I have often said, if you cannot find it in Eminönü, then you don't need it.

This bustling neighborhood in Istanbul, near the Galata Bridge, is one of my favorite places to wander. I've spent countless hours strolling through the backstreets looking for fabric, rugs, sunglasses, toys, beads, various spices, kitchen supplies and things I didn't even know I needed.

Eminönü also is where I buy the majority of my baking supplies and ingredients. From time to time, blog readers have asked me where I find certain ingredients, cookie cutters and baking pans. Well, now I'm putting all this information into one nice blog post for you.

As you approach the Mısır Çarşısı (Spice Bazaar) in Istanbul, stay to the right outside the building and walk down the small street of Tahmis Sokak. You will pass about 15 or so vendors selling dried fruits, nuts, cheese, fish and fresh produce.

On Tahmis Sokak in Eminönü, you will find cheese shops like this one.
The guys will happily give you samples to try.

Toward the end of the street, you will see the famous Turkish coffee shop, Kurukahveci MehmetEfendi, on your right-hand side on the corner. Turn right down this street, Hasırcılar Caddesi. This is my stomping grounds in Istanbul and where you will find everything you ever wanted (almost) for baking.

I have never not seen a line outside of this Turkish coffee shop in Eminönü.

So here are my 3 Favorite Baking Supply Stores in Eminönü in Istanbul:

1. Sancar - First, you will pass by Sancar. In front of the store are bins filled with nuts, boxes of plastic wrap, plastic gloves, paper plates and cups. Look for the helpful guys wearing red shirts. I think I'm considered a regular customer by now.

I doubt any other yabancı buy as many kilos as I do of chocolate chips (10 tl), chopped walnuts (24 tl), hazelnuts (22 tl), powdered sugar (4 tl) and 2.5 kilo bricks of dark chocolate. Sancar also has a great selection of plastic take-away containers that I buy in bulk to transport my pastries.

A 1-kilo bag of Elit bitter chocolate chips costs 10 tl.

2. Besan - About 10 stores down from Sancar, you will notice this pastry shop by its hundreds of colorful baking cups stacked outside in a bin.

Colorful baking cups at Besan. 

Inside Besan, you will find one of the best selection of cookie cutters (2-10 tl each). But beware, cookie cutters are much more expensive here than the U.S. Actually, all of the imported pastry items such as pastry bags, piping tips and fancy baking pans are more expensive in Turkey.

However, I have bought a fair number of cookie cutters, mini metal tart pans and my foil cardboard cake circles here (.50 tl each). Besan also has a colorful selection of fondant, which I've used with great success.

I've bought many cookie cutters here at Besan. 

3. Nüans - Continue a few more meters down Hasırcılar Caddesi and you will see a duplex-like pastry shop on the left-hand side of the street.

Nüans always has bins outside filled with baskets, bowls and
other kitchen supplies. 

Nüans is the largest pastry supply store in Eminönü (that I know of), but it also tends to be slightly higher priced than the other ones I frequent. Still, I pop in every now and then to compare goods and prices. The store does have a large selection of baking pans, silpats, pastry tips, cookie cutters, kitchen knives, cupcake decorating sprinkles, birthday candles, fondant and sugar paste supplies.

So there you have it! Now, you know where a busy baker like me likes to shop in Istanbul.

Happy baking everyone!

Locations:

Sancar Merkez

Address: Hasırcılar Caddesi No. 24, Eminönü-Fatih

Tel: 0212-528-6836

info@sancargida.com

http://www.sancargida.com/

Besan LTD.

Address: Hasırcılar Caddesi No. 38, Eminönü-Fatih

Tel: 0212-514-1516

info@besan.com.tr

Nüans

Address: Hasırcılar Caddesi No. 65-67, Eminönü-Fatih

Tel: 0212-513-4242

www.nuanspasta.com

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