A-Z Guidebook: Ferry Ride to Kadıköy in Istanbul

K is for Kadıköy

To me, a ferry ride is a brief escape from the world. A chance to feel the cool, salty breeze on my face. A moment to watch the seagulls chase the ferry and admire the fading shoreline.

When we lived in Istanbul, taking the ferry from our neighborhood of Beşiktaş to Kadıköy was one of my favorite things to do. During these brief 20 minutes, I felt transported to a different world – a beautiful, exotic world so different from my own upbringing in the Midwest of the U.S.

Every day, barring bad weather and government closures, the iconic white and yellow Şehir Hatları ferry boats crisscross the Bosphorus Straight and will even take you all the way to the Princes Islands. The ferries cross between Beşiktaş and Kadıköy and back again twice an hour. Day time trips between the two neighborhoods is perfect, but unfortunately, the ferries stop service long before your going out hours are up and you’re stuck taking a dolmuş (a shared minivan taxi) to either side.

Once you arrive in Kadıköy, you can enjoy a pleasant walk along the Bosphorus shoreline or head straight to the pedestrian-friendly market area. Guess where I usually ended up?

In the market area, you’ll find dozens of stall holders and shop owners touting fresh fish, seasonal fruits and veggies, dried fruits, honey, nuts, cheese, baklava and more. You’ll even find the odd sheeps’ head, offal and foreign pork products for sale (a must for any displaced expat)

If you’re in the mood for lunch or dinner, head over to Çiya, a fantastic local spot which has three cafés/restaurants on Güneşli Bahçe Sokak. I visited this popular eatery many times while I lived in Istanbul and during my visits. The Turkish food features typical homemade goodies such as lentil soup, meat casseroles, mezzes and kebabs.

Just thinking about Çiya has my mouth watering! Hopefully, we’ll be visiting and eating here again later this year!

When you visit Istanbul, don’t miss out taking the ferry ride to Kadıköy and exploring this bustling neighborhood.

I’m linking this post to the monthly travel guide link up organized by Fiona, a fellow Australian blogger, at Tiffin Bite Sized Food Adventures. Each month features a new letter of the alphabet. This month is the letter “K.” Please pop on over to Fiona’s blog to read more travel stories!

Read More

Everyone Eats at Çiya in Istanbul

When we lived in Istanbul, I loved taking our visitors from the European side to the Anatolian part of the city.

Not only could our friends enjoy a vapur ride on the Bosphorus, but they also could say they had been to “Asia.” I would even time our visit so we could eat at one of my favorite and one-of-a-kind places in the city – Çiya located in the Kadıköy neighborhood.

In the last few years, Çiya has earned the recognition as one of the city’s foodie hotspots, as mentioned by IstanbulEats, DeliciousIstanbul and Parla Food. Çiya's owner/chef, Musa Dağdeviren, from Gaziantep in southern Turkey, has travelled all over Turkey as well as the Balkans and neighboring countries collecting his recipes. The result is some of the most distinctive dishes you’ll find in Istanbul such as candied vegetables, meats cooked with seasonal fruits and wild herbs and greens. Dağdeviren’s menu is always changing at his three locations located on the same pedestrian-only street in Kadıköy.

On my initial visit to Çiya with Selin of Turkish Flavours in 2011, Dağdeviren was making Turkish pide and kindly hung out with our group for a bit. Of course, I had to ask if I could get my photo taken with the chef, and he obliged.

As soon as you walk into Çiya, you’ll notice its fantastic salad bar that’s always filled with unique wild herbs and greens, hummus and other seasonal nibbles. This is where I start. Grab a plate, select your favorite dishes and then be sure to get your plate weighed by the helpful staff. You could make a meal just out of this salad bar!

The main dishes always change, depending on the season, but you’ll usually find a few soups as well as several meat-based dishes such as kuzu etli ayva dolması (lamb cooked with quince), celeriac stuffed with rice and ground beef, vişneli köfte (meatballs cooked in a tangy sour cherry sauce) or a tasty meat stew with baby okra. I find it difficult not to order one of everything especially if it’s a dish I haven’t tried before. These dishes aren't fancy, just honest, homecooked food, and the flavors are outstanding.

One of my favorite dishes when it's in season - kuzu etli ayva dolması.

Conclude your delightful meal with a refreshing şerbet, a sweet, fruit-based beverage popular during the Ottoman era.

For dessert, I always have a hard time deciding between künefe or katmer, both desserts hail from southeast Turkey. However, if you would like a unique dessert, order Çiya’s plate of candied fruits and vegetables. Who knew candied olives could be so tasty?

Dessert time at Çiya.

During my next visit to Istanbul this spring, I might have to include a stop at Çiya as well!

Location:

Çiya Sofrası and Çiya Kebab (right across the street from each other)

Güneşlibahçe Sokak 43

Kadıköy, Istanbul

Read More

Following the Painted Rainbows in Istanbul

My favorite city, Istanbul, has had its ups and downs this summer thanks to the Turkish government.

One of the positive highlights happened on August 27, when a local shopkeeper, Hüseyin Çelikel, set out to paint the 100+ steps leading from Fındıklı to Cihangir in rainbow colors. This was not a political statement. He just wanted to brighten up people’s day. At first, Çelikel painted only three of the steps, but then, after positive comments from passers-by, he decided to paint them all. Soon, residents were posing for picture on these colorful steps.

But this happy moment was shortlived because the local municipality quickly took action and repainted the stairs an ugly, boring grey.

Of course, this act of grey-ing the rainbow stairs soon triggered more anti-government protests in Istanbul and across the country. Shortly afterwards, the municipality (smartly) decided to repaint the Fındıklı-Cihangir in its former rainbow splendor.

In the past month or so, the movement of painting rainbow staircases has spread all over Turkey from Ankara to Yalova and Antalya to Gaziantep and even N. Cyprus. I set out to find the rainbows myself during my recent trip to Istanbul.

Following the tram route from Kabataş, I got off at the Fındıklı stop and walked south towards the Tophane stop. In between these two tram stops, you can’t miss the uneven and rundown steps that are painted in bright rainbow colors. A cat posed in front of the steps for me, and four young, German tourists asked me to take their photos while I was there.

As I had the afternoon to myself, I leisurely walked up the steps to take a bunch of photos. I found tons of colorful graffiti on the walls here as well.

Later in the week, I moved over to the Asian side of the city and strolled around the neighborhood of Kadıköy where I found a few more rainbows near the main square.

Left: Part of the Cihangir steps. Right: More painted stairs in Kadıköy.

Random street posts painted in rainbow colors in Kadıköy.

In a city that is full of contrasts, I think it’s wonderful to see these rainbows brighten up some otherwise less colorful parts of the city.

I can only hope these rainbows will remain.

The "controversial" rainbow-painted steps leading up to Cihangir.

A second set of rainbow-painted stairs leading to Cihangir.

Of course, the Turkish police are stationed nearby so things don't get out of hand at the rainbow-painted steps. Boo!

If you are on Twitter, look for the hashtags #direnmerdiven and #direngökkuşağı to find more rainbow-painted staircases across Turkey.

And for related articles, please visit:

‘Rainbow’s end?’ published in Cornucopia Magazine

‘With a Burst of Color, Turkey’s Public Walkways Become a Focus of Quiet Protest’ published in the NY Times

‘Diren Merdiven’ on Moe’s blog: Passion Taking Flight.

 More photos can be found on the Turkish Rainbow Revolution website.

Read More

Other Baking Supply Stores in Istanbul

My answer to my friends on where I find my baking ingredient and supplies is always a resounding - Eminönü.

Unfortunately, I have to admit that not everyone shares my love of Eminönü or doesn’t want to take the time to go here. If you want the best selection and best prices in Istanbul, then this is the ONLY option as I mentioned in this post: My 3 Favorite Baking Supply Stores in Eminönü in Istanbul.

If you simply cannot get to Eminönü, I do have two other recommendations for you.

If you live on the Asian side, I have stumbled upon a small pastry shop, about a five-minute walk away from the fish market in Kadıköy. Coşan Pastacilik is located on a small pedestrian-only street called Serasker Cad. 

The store carries a variety of cookie cutters and molds, metal and silicone baking pans and cake decorating supplies. It looks like you can even order baking supplies from the company’s website. However, I can tell you the store’s prices are definitely a bit more expensive than my regular stores in Eminönü. I guess you are paying for the convenience.

Another baking supply store that opened within the last few months is in Ortaköy. Located a few blocks west of the shore road, Mutfak Kitap is a jam-packed small store that carries a decent selection of Turkish and baking cookbooks, baking supplies and cookie cutters. The prices here are more reasonable. For example, a one-kilo package of fondant here costs 12 tl compared to 10 tl at Besan in Eminönü. You also can order from this store’s website. 

When I popped in here again earlier this month, I found a new display case filled with imported goods such as rice vinegar, soy sauce, sushi rice, maple syrup and agave syrup. Odd!

Twice, I have bought items from Mutfak Kitap because I can quickly take the bus from Beşiktaş to Ortaköy when I don’t have much time. But I still prefer to stock up on as many baking ingredients and supplies as I can in Eminönü.

***Today, I thought of a third shop as I was out and about. The German chain of coffee shops/cafés, Tchibo, with several locations in Istanbul, also carries random baking supplies such as silpats, cookie cutters, special cake pans, kitchen appliances, etc. The inventory changes on a weekly basis. I find this concept totally bizarre because you can have a latté while you shop for long underwear, an ironing board, pillow cases and blouses.

You never know what you'll find at Tchibo so it's best to pop into here often. For example, this is where I bought my cookie stamps for my Holiday Message-In-A-Cookie Recipe.

Happy baking everyone!

Locations:

Coşan Pastacilik

Address: Osmanağa Mh. Serasker Cd. No:76

KADIKÖY

Tel: 0216-450-5071

Mutfak Kitap

Address: Muvakkit Sokak No:19

Ortaköy/Beşiktaş

Tel: 0212-511-5140

Read More

Haydarpaşa Station Near Dusk in Istanbul

Elbow-deep in flour, sugar and sprinkles this week, I thought I'd at least post some photos. (My Valentine's Day baking classes started today and will continue through the 14th.)

On Sunday, we took advantage of the short-lived sunshine and walked along the Bosphorus - all the way from Üsküdar to Kadıköy. Last week, I hibernated inside our apartment except for the single day I captured some snow photos in Sultanahmet. I needed to get OUTSIDE!

The weather felt like a warm, spring day, and people were everywhere! I took a ton of photos, and we both soaked up the rays while we enjoyed our çay.

It was almost 5 p.m. when we walked across the bridge that spans over the train tracks by Istanbul’s Haydarpaşa Garı (Train Station). This castle-looking structure, dating from 1906/1908, is the first and last stop in Asia, depending on how you look at it.

Apparently, Haydarpaşa was an important link in the railway chain of the Kaiser's "Berlin-to-Baghdad" railway scheme, part of the German Empire's Drang nach Osten ("Drive to the East") during the late 19th century.

Soon, Haydarpaşa will close for renovations, and some people fear it probably will be turned into a hotel down the road. Let’s hope the building’s structural integrity will remain and not be forsaken for modernity (as has been the latest case for an ancient palace in Sultanahmet.) (Sadly, as of June 19, 2013, I’ve learned the last train used the station, and it will be converted into another shopping mall. See this article: Haydarpaşa Train Station is Closing with New Terminal.)

When you catch a ferry along the Bosphorus over to Kadıköy, Haydarpaşa is one landmark you can't help but notice. I often wonder about the thousands of people who have passed through here. Now, I'll just have to continue to wonder as another historical building closes.

Read More

Exploring Kadıköy

On Sunday, we explored a small nook in Asia.

Living in Istanbul, that’s not difficult to do since the city is located on two continents - Asia and Europe. But it’s fun saying it.

On the 15-minute IDO ferry ride from Beşiktaş to Kadıköy, we sat on the top deck so we could enjoy the view, albeit a bit chilly. You notice the juxtaposition of Istanbul’s skyline with its mix of century-old mosques, palaces of former sultans and deteriorating buildings amid the new high-rise apartment and office buildings.

The Kiz Kulesi was a medieval maritime toll-booth where ships passing through the Bosphorus would pay
a toll on the goods they were transporting.

Large freighters like this one often travel through the Bosphorus.

The Haydarpaşa train station in Kadiköy, originally opened in 1872, but this building dates to 1909.

Kadıköy is a large district on the Anatolian side of Istanbul. This bustling, middle-class district is located along the shore of the Sea of Marmara and faces the historic city centre on the European side of the Bosporus.

Once we landed, we headed to the right to meet up with one of our expat groups, which had organized that day’s walk. The idea was to follow the path along the sea-front from Kadıköy, but we hadn’t planned on the rainy weather.

We warmed up with a Turkish çay, bought a 5-lira şemsiye (umbrella) and decided to brave the elements.

At one point, you could look back toward historic Sultanahmet and see the stormy clouds following us.

But if you looked ahead, you could see the sun shining in the distance over the Princess Islands.

Eventually, the storm did catch up with us and the whole group of us were fairly wet. So, we stopped for ice cream! I enjoyed a cone of pistachio and chocolate chip.

The rain let up a bit, so we continued through the Fenerbahçe Marina where one section looked like a ship graveyard with various ship parts and deteriorating boats like the one below.

However, around the bend, I saw a plethora of new sailboats waiting to cast off into the open waters.

By now, the sun was shining, so we stopped to have a beer and chat. (You can see the continuing theme here, drink/walk, food/walk, drink/walk.) The stray cats nearby also took advantage of the sun, and I’m sure they were waiting for some tasty fish scraps.

Our 3-hour 5k walk was coming to a close. I was a bit chilled to the bone and ready to be home snuggled up on the couch. We caught a dolmuş back to Kadıköy and took the next ferry home.

We ended our day back in Beşiktaş with a dinner of Adana kebap, tomato-bulgur, yogurt and hot flatbreads. Not a bad way to end a Sunday.

Afiyet olsun!

Read More