Showing posts with label North Cyprus. Show all posts
Showing posts with label North Cyprus. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

N is for Nicosia

Even four years later, I can still picture the white spring blossoms that decorated the worn cobblestone streets and smell the fragrant citrus trees we passed when we visited Nicosia in North Cyprus.

Nicosia (Lefkoşa in Turkish) is one of the few world’s divided cities with half of it belonging in Greek-ruled Cyprus and the northern half governed by the Turkish Municipality. You must pass through a passport checkpoint to cross from one side to the other. Cyprus has acomplicated history. It was part of the British Empire as a military occupation from 1914-1925, and a Crown colony from 1925-1960. Cyprus became an independent nation in 1960, but then were arguments between the Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots resulting in the current divided country. 

Even before the most recent turmoil, Cyprus’ history is embedded in complications. The country became a Roman province in 58 BC, was ruled jointly by both the Arabs and the Byzantines, became a target of the Christian crusades in the 12th century and was dominated by the Genoese merchants in the 14th century until the Ottoman siege and takeover in the 1500s.

Because of the island’s complex history, you’ll find remains of different architectures such as the Gothic Cathedral of Saint Sophia which became the Selimiye Mosque in 1570 when the Ottomans conquered the land. During the 50-day Ottoman siege of Nicosia, the cathedral provided refuge for a great number of people.
The cathedral-turned-mosque still looks a bit like a church to me, except for the minarets on the outside and the Islamic features of a mihrab (prayer niche) and the minbar (pulpit) inside. The building was constructed in the 13th century by the Latin Church of Cyprus, in a Gothic style resembling French cathedrals. The church-mosque’s Roman-era columns indicate the possible presence of a Byzantine church before its construction. I found it interesting to walk through the largest and oldest surviving Gothic church in Cyprus and admire the different architecture.

Thanks to our lovely Turkish-Cypriot friends we were able to explore and learn more about the divided city of Nicosia. I’d love to return someday and see more of the island!

I’m linking this post to the monthly travel guide link up organized by Fiona, a fellow Australian blogger, at Tiffin Bite Sized Food Adventures. Each month features a new letter of the alphabet. July is the letter “N.” Please pop on over to Fiona’s blog to read more travel stories or feel free to link up your own!
TIFFIN - bite sized food adventures -
My Traveling Joys

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Today’s post and recipe is a shout out to our dear Cypriot friends in North Cyprus.

I keep telling Umut I just might head down there in the fall and help out with his family’s olive harvest. By October, we could have snow already here in Warsaw so I think I should have a backup plan that includes sunshine.

This week, I finally harvested my first batch of arugula grown on our spacious 40-meter terrace. I have so much space I don’t know what to do with it all, which is drastically different from my Apartment Gardening in Istanbul. I started the arugula seeds in May shortly after we moved in, and seven weeks later they have been growing like weeds from all the rain.
What goes great with homegrown arugula? Why grilled halloumi cheese from Cyprus, of course! Luckily, we recently discovered the cutest cheese shop near our apartment called La Fromagerie, which specializes in imported cheeses.
Halloumi is a traditional semi-hard cheese in Cyprus that has a high melting point, so it can easily be fried or grilled. It’s a popular cheese in Greece too.

While I do love halloumi cheese, I especially was excited to find a familiar food from our Turkey trips. I’ve been missing our Turkish friends, Turkish food and just about everything (except the traffic) from Istanbul. I laughed when my husband noticed the label said the cheese was from Nicosia, Cyprus.
For dinner, I make a fresh salad nearly every night. I used a generous cutting of arugula, plus sliced tomatoes and cucumbers and the grilled halloumi cheese topped with a garlic-nar-olive oil dressing. We liked this salad so much I made it two nights in a row.

Whether you are in Poland, Turkey or America, I hope you enjoy this summer salad as much as we did!

Smacznego! (Bon appétit in Polish)

Arugula Salad with Grilled Cypriot Halloumi Cheese
Serves 2

Ingredients:
A good bunch               fresh arugula
2          medium           tomatoes, diced
1          ea.                    cucumber, sliced
100      g.                     Halloumi cheese
As needed                   olive oil and dried oregano

For the dressing:
1          ea.                    garlic clove, finely minced
1          T.                     Turkish olive oil
1          T.                     nar ekşisi sosu (pomegranate molasses)
To taste                       salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the dressing ingredients. Alternatively, you can emulsify the ingredients better if you pulse in a small food processer for a minute.

2. Then heat a kitchen grill or frying pan over medium-high heat.

3. Slice the halloumi cheese about ¼-inch thick. Set aside on a cutting board. Brush both sides with olive oil and sprinkle with dried oregano.

4. Place the halloumi in the hot grill pan, giving the slices a minute or two on each side. The cheese will soften slightly as it cooks and get slightly browned.

5. In a medium-sized salad bowl, toss the arugula, tomatoes and cucumbers with the dressing. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper as needed. Serve the pieces of halloumi over the salad and eat immediately.

Location:
La Fromagerie
Ul. Burakowska 5/7
01-066 Warsaw
Poland
Phone: (22) 465 23 24

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

After driving past impressive villas and slowly winding up the Kyrenia Mountains, we arrived in a tranquil village that overlooked the Mediterranean Sea.


One look at Bellapais, located in the Turkish-controlled North Cyprus, and I thought I could easily spend a long holiday here. The village is also known as Beylerbeyi in Turkish.

The village offers breathtaking sea views, tiny streets to explore, charming cafés, small boutique hotels and bed and breakfasts as well as ancient buildings to admire.
The most notable ancient building here is the Bellapais Abbey or “The Abbey of Peace,” translated from French Abbaye de la Belle Paix.  Reaching back to my Spanish skills, I would translate it as “beautiful country.” I think the Spanish translation sums up this village rather nicely.

The Bellapais Abbey is known as one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture in the Eastern Mediterranean. The monastery’s first settlers were the priests of the Augustinian order who migrated from Jerusalem. They constructed the first monastery building between 1198-1205.
A side view of the Bellapais Abbey with the Mediterranean Sea in the background.
The monastery's beautifully restored exterior walls.
But most of the buildings that remain standing today were built by the French King Hugh III between 1267-1284. The pavilions around the courtyard and the refectory were constructed during the reign of King Hugh IV (1324-1359). After the Ottomans conquered Cyprus in 1570, the monastery was plundered and given to the Greek Orthodox Church.

The church, next to the courtyard with two large mandalina trees, is the part which appears to be in the best condition and is still used for special events. For some reason, the monastery and church were not open on the day that we visited back in February. You can learn more about the Bellapais Abbey’s interesting history here.
The courtyard of the church at Bellapais, North Cyprus.
We took our time taking photos of the monastery and then wandered around the old cobblestone streets of Bellapais with our Cypriot and Turkish friends. Cherry trees were blossoming as well as several colorful varieties of wild flowers. We bought a huge bag of local mandalina that we immediately ate along the side of the road. The day really was perfect!
While the village of Bellapais is only 4 kilometres from the city of Kyrenia, it is about 45 minutes away from the Ercan Airport. You’re pretty much required to rent a car.

After seeing what I have of North Cyprus so far, I would have no problem renting a car and spending a week or more exploring the Turkish side of this beautiful island.

For further reading, check out “Bitter Lemons of Cyprus,” written by author Lawrence Durrell who lived in Bellapais during the 1950s and chronicled his time in Cyprus. I’ve just downloaded the book to my Kindle.
The stone arches in front of the Bellapais Abbey.
My husband, Jason, posing with our friends: Umut, Huseyin and Ceren.
A single arch leading into the Bellapais Abbey.

Monday, December 17, 2012



Our weekend was filled with warm sunshine, a table full of food and surrounded by new friends.

Now, we’re back in cold, dreary and rainy Istanbul.

I already miss sitting outside with a glass of wine in a short-sleeves shirt and admiring the lush green country side near Gönyeli, North Cyprus.
Just before sunset in North Cyprus.
Although we told ourselves we weren’t going to travel in December, we couldn’t help ourselves. We snapped up fairly inexpensive tickets to North Cyprus via Pegasus Airlines so we could visit our Cypriot friends. (Pegasus is always offering deals to destinations in Turkey and Europe. Seriously, sign up for the email newsletter.)

One of our friends, Umut, was hosting his third annual “Thanksmas” party. I volunteered to help make my pumpkin pies and hubby would help chop, prep things for the party. My new mantra is have apron, will travel!

Speaking of which, I have some holiday baking to work on so it’s time for me to don my apron and get in the kitchen. Editing photos and working on a new blog post will have to wait.

Here are some of my previous posts about traveling in beautiful North Cyprus.

More to come soon!

Friday, February 17, 2012


Girne (Kyrenia) - No matter where we travel, I don't think I will ever tire of watching the sunset while enjoying a glass of wine or a frosty pint of beer.
After an afternoon of exploring North Cyprus, our friends took us to the old harbor in Girne (Kyrenia) to relax with a beverage or two. We didn't have time to climb the Kyrenia Castle ruins - dating to the early 1500s.
Look at the boat's reflection in the clear water.
Instead, we just sat down at one of their favorite haunts, Cafe 34, and ordered some drinks and snacks. I also enjoy people watching, and many people were milling about soaking up the last of the day's sunshine.

Couples walked their dogs.
Children screamed for cotton candy.
Women in typical-Turkish style walked by wearing their 4-inch heeled boots.

Then, we noticed a group of bikers nearby. According to the black leather jackets, the group was members of the Hells Angels of Turkey. Immediately, I thought photo opportunity, so I started shooting away.
The Hells Angels of Turkey
In the background, you can see a bit of the old castle.
Who knew these guys were in Turkey or even in North Cyprus for that matter? Apparently, there is a car ferry you can take from the mainland of Turkey to North Cyprus.

Just goes to show you - always have your camera ready because you never know when the opportunity will pass you by otherwise.
Güle güle!
Iyi yolculuklar!

Before you walk down to the harbor in Girne, you probably will pass by this church. I don't know its history, but I always find it interesting to see Christian sites like this in a predominantly Muslim world.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Nicosia - Start off your sunny morning with a filling pide topped with melted halloumi cheese nestled with bits of egg or beef sausage.
Order a glass of çay (tea), and soon it's delivered by a local man riding a bicycle and balancing the tray of delicate tea glasses at the same time. (I wasn't quick enough to get a photo of this moment.)

That's how we started our weekend with our Turkish and Cypriot friends in North Cyprus (also known in Turkish as Kuzey Kıbrıs Türk Cumhuriyeti) last Saturday.

We have wanted to visit Cyprus for awhile and jumped at the opportunity to travel with our Turkish friends - Ceren and Huseyin. We had a blast exploring this much-bigger-than-envisioned island with our friends - checking out the local haunts and eating until our bellies burst! 

Our Cypriot friend, Umut, first took us to Bereket Asmaaltı – a small bakery located near the Büyük Han (Grand Inn) in Nicosia. He ordered a round of pide for our group; soon we were diving in and soaking up the sun – a much-needed respite from all the snow in Istanbul.
The pide was delicious - a bit of a twist on the traditional Turkish pide, usually smothered in kaşar peynir (Turkish cheddar cheese), we've sampled on our travels. We started chatting with the owner, Ilker Bey, who has been running the business for nearly 50 years. His grandfather started the bakery about 90 years ago, and now Ilker Bey is training his children to take it over someday.
In addition to the pide, you must try the tahini-flavored pastry and the local olive bread.
After our satisfying brunch, we headed over to the nearby Büyük Han, a restored stone structure originally built in 1572 shortly after the Ottomans took over the island. The han once served as a major trading point for merchants from the Orient, Anatolia and Europe and as a place to stay/sleep. It also served as the Lefkosha Central Prison from 1878-1895 during the English rule of the island. 
Today, the han is frequented by locals and tourists alike. There are a few cafes and many shops selling local handicrafts and handmade souvenirs such as shawls, paintings, pottery and jewelry.
Many beautiful handmade scarves and vests like these were available here.
Being a foodie, Umut told me I must try the island's famous candied green walnuts so we stopped at Shiffa Home on the top floor. The shop's owner, Ayperi Gurdur, cans, candies and dries just about anything edible so you will find tons of edible delights like jams, marmalades and dried teas.
I plan to do some baking with the carob syrup and candied walnuts that I bought  in North Cyprus.
I found another interesting shop, Koza, that specializes in creating framed wall decorations, bookmarks, jewelry and hair accessories from silkworm cocoons. I had no clue Cyprus once was well-known for its silkworms and mulberry trees. People all over the island "raised" the silkworms at home to produce silk, and the women used the cocoons to create antique picture frames.
I bought one of these cute headbands decorated with silkworm cocoons to wear this spring and summer.
We enjoyed a splendid afternoon walking around Nicosia thanks to our friends and the sunny weather. Imagine our surprise when our photo ended up on page 4 of the local newspaper the next day.
We kept a copy of the local newspaper. It's not the best photo, but it does show us enjoying the sunshine and the fresh Cypriot pide.
Apparently, we're already "famous" in N. Cyprus. I just hope we don't have to ward off the paparazzi upon our return visit. Ha ha!
On the left, Umut and Jason standing in the center of the Büyük Han.