Exploring Beautiful Bozcaada - Top 10 Things to Do

Surrounded by Turkish grape vines, restored, whitewashed houses and Mediterranean-influenced food, these are just some of the reasons we returned to Bozcaada two years in a row.

To me, Bozcaada, an island off the western coast of Turkey, is one of those rare, magical places where you can relax without hordes of tourists. There are hidden beaches and swimming holes to explore. A short walk down an uneven cobblestone path may lead to a charming café.

Oh, and don’t forget about the wine! This 15-square-mile island is planted with field after field of grapevines – a beautiful site to see in the summer and in the fall. Last year, the New York Times referred to Bozcaada as “one of Turkey’s most promising wine destinations.” 

Autumnal-colored, empty grapevines on the island of Bozcaada, Turkey.

In July 2011, four of us traveled to Bozcaada for the first time because we had fallen in love with drinking Corvus wine here in Istanbul. (Corvus is considered the most prestigious producer on the island.) Our plan was to drink wine and sunbathe on the beach. That was it.

Last October, hubby and I returned to Bozcaada because we just couldn’t resist. The island was more subdued at that time of the year, but was perfect in our quest for a relaxing weekend. With temps between 10-15 C, we didn’t swim in the icy Aegean Sea this time.

Like Turkey, this small island has captured my heart.

Here are my Top 10 Things to Do on Bozcaada:

1. Eat ahtapot! Who knew this steak-lovin’ girl would fall in love with ahtapot (octopus) once she moved to Turkey? I like this tasty Mediterranean morsel best grilled with lots of olive oil and spices. Be sure to save your bread for some dunking. Delicious ahtapot can be had at Şişman, Lodos and Mistik restaurants.

2. Go wine tasting! Bozcaada is known for its Turkish wines, so you can sample the likes of Talay, Corvus and Çamlıbağ in the city center. There’s also a new, hip restaurant called Bakkal that offers a large wine list, locally-sourced dishes and imported Italian pork salami on the menu.

3. Rent a bike. This was my husband’s brilliant idea, just like when we traveled to Bali. I like hiking, but I am no cyclist. However, renting a bike for just 15tl is a good way to see the island (if you don’t have a car), but be prepared for hills. Lots of hills! I didn’t remember Bozcaada being so hilly, and my legs were on fire the next morning.

4. Explore the beaches. The island’s beaches are a bit more fun when the weather is warm and sunny. We pedaled out to Ayazma Plajı, but it was deserted at the end of October. During the summer, the beaches, such as Çayır Plajı and Tuzburnu Plajı, are also good places to rent a chair and take a dip in the crystalline water. We even found several practically-deserted swimming holes when we drove around the island in 2011.

Grab a beach chair on the island of Bozcaada.

Or find a swimming hole like this one.

5. Make friends with the locals at the bar. Our hotel owners recommended the Oda Bar & Café as a fun place for 30+-somethings to hang out near the harbor. On our first night, we had so much that my husband got invited to a margarita competition the second night by owner Yeşim. My husband (just barely) won the competition and proceeded to make his famous nar-garitas for other customers.

Hubby made his famous nar-garitas for Turkish customers at the bar.

6. Stroll the cobblestone streets. The island’s town center is divided into Greek and Turkish sections, referring to the groups who originally built the districts. You’ll see a mosque and Ottoman architecture on one side and an old church with a tall clock tower and white-washed houses like you find in Greece on the other side.

7. Climb on top the Bozcaada Castle. In 1455, Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror rebuilt the castle on ruins that had been used by the Genovese and Venetians. In the following years, the castle, considered the best preserved castle in Turkey, was restored several times due to wars.

A nice view of the Aegean Sea from on top the castle.

A nighttime view of Bozcaada Castle.

8. Shop at the local artisan’s market. Near the harbor, you will find locals selling spices, jewelry, thyme-scented honey and unique jams made from rose petals and tomatoes. Try the tomato jam while you have your Turkish breakfast on the island.

9. Drink wine by the harbor. BYOB. Head down to the opposite side of the harbor from the castle with a bottle of wine in tow. Sit on the rocks and swirl your newly purchased bottle of Turkish wine.

 10. Watch the sunset. A popular activity to do is pack a bag full of wine and snacks and head out to the Polente Feneri (Lighthouse) on the western side of the island. You’ll notice the giant electricity windmills as you approach. Grab a spot by the rocky ledge, spread out your towel and watch one of the best sunsets you’ve ever seen in Turkey.

11. Fly via a seaplane. I couldn’t resist throwing in an extra reason to visit Bozcaada. As mentioned on recent posts, my husband and I flew the new Seabird Airlines from Istanbul for a long weekend in October. At 80 minutes, the seaplane is the fastest way to get here or you can take a bus/your own car and make the trip in 6+ hours. 

Update August 2015: The Seabird Airlines has stopped flying to Bozcaada, according to the Turkish news.

Once you get to Bozcaada, all you may want to do is eat some divine local food, swirl some Turkish wine and relax on the beach or in a white-washed chair.

The harbor area on Bozcaada, Turkey.

How to get there:

By car: take the fast ferry from Istanbul to Bandırma, and then drive 210 km to the port of Geyikli. From there, take a 35-minute car ferry to Bozcaada. Total time is about 6 hours. If you don’t mind driving longer, you can also drive west from Istanbul through Tekirdağ, and then take a ferry boat from Gelibolu or Eceabat, crossing the Dardanelles Strait. You’ll need to drive a bit more before you reach Geyikli.

By bus: Truva Turizm runs frequent buses from Istanbul to Geyikli. Then, hop on the ferry boat. 7 hours.

Where to stay:

Aika, a new boutique hotel in the city center, is ideal for couples or friends traveling together.

Çapraz Resort Hotel, located 3 km. from the city center, is more family-friendly and has its own pool and private beach area.

Previous posts:

Flying to Beautiful Bozcaada – Our Favorite Turkish Trip in 2012

Flying Seabird over Istanbul: Aerial Photos

An aerial view of Bozcaada's town center as we flew over in the Seabird plane.

Bozcaada grape vines during the summer months.

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Splendid Sunset in Istanbul

Every now and then, I truly get lucky and end up in the right spot at exactly the right time to capture a beautiful photo.

This happened to me when I visited Istanbul last month. My friend and I started walking along the sea side from Bostancı toward Kadıköy on the Asian side of the city.

It was after 6 p.m., and the sunlight was waning. Sunset was just around the corner. This perfect time, called the golden hour, occurs right around sunset and sunrise. The light tends to be softer and warmer which makes for wonderful photos.

As we walked along the Sea of Marmara, I noticed the golden yellow and orange hues appearing in the sky.

The sun’s rays reflected off the sea as we passed the boats docked at Suadiye. The bustling city appeared to be (finally) quieting down.

As we rounded a bend, I quickened my pace because I could see the sun rapidly dipping down into the sea. I told my friend I was running up ahead to get some photos.

I clambered over the wall onto the large rocks along the sea. I saw a few lone fishermen in the distance still trying their luck at getting some fish for dinner. And that was when I saw what was probably the most splendid sunset I had EVER seen in Istanbul. There was simply something special about this sunset.

The brilliant colors were outstanding. I kept taking as many photos as I could, trying to quickly check to make sure I had the right settings. I didn’t want to lose this moment.

The fishermen continued to fish, perhaps oblivious to this beautiful sunset.

Boats and gigantic shipping containers were off in the distance in the sea.

Seagulls silently flew overhead.

I watched as the sun set below the horizon, leaving behind a warm, fiery red glow in the sky.

It’s funny I had to leave Istanbul in order to return and see the best sunset in more than three years.

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N. Cyprus: Harbor, Hells Angels

Girne (Kyrenia) - No matter where we travel, I don't think I will ever tire of watching the sunset while enjoying a glass of wine or a frosty pint of beer.

After an afternoon of exploring North Cyprus, our friends took us to the old harbor in Girne (Kyrenia) to relax with a beverage or two. We didn't have time to climb the Kyrenia Castle ruins - dating to the early 1500s.

Look at the boat's reflection in the clear water.

Instead, we just sat down at one of their favorite haunts, Cafe 34, and ordered some drinks and snacks. I also enjoy people watching, and many people were milling about soaking up the last of the day's sunshine.

Couples walked their dogs.

Children screamed for cotton candy.

Women in typical-Turkish style walked by wearing their 4-inch heeled boots.

Then, we noticed a group of bikers nearby. According to the black leather jackets, the group was members of the Hells Angels of Turkey. Immediately, I thought photo opportunity, so I started shooting away.

The Hells Angels of Turkey

In the background, you can see a bit of the old castle.

Who knew these guys were in Turkey or even in North Cyprus for that matter? Apparently, there is a car ferry you can take from the mainland of Turkey to North Cyprus.

Just goes to show you - always have your camera ready because you never know when the opportunity will pass you by otherwise.

Güle güle!

Iyi yolculuklar!

Before you walk down to the harbor in Girne, you probably will pass by this church. I don't know its history, but I always find it interesting to see Christian sites like this in a predominantly Muslim world.

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Favorite Sunsets of 2011

As I searched through last year's photos, I realized how many I had intended to but haven't shared here on the blog.

So even though, I may be a tad late in doing a roundup of 2011, I wanted to share my favorite sunset photos taken mainly in Turkey and on a few other trips. I was surprised I didn't have any sunset photos from Alaçatı or Bodrum, but I think I must have taken a nap before dinner and missed out.

Hope you enjoy this photo essay!

§  In April, we drove to Edirne, about two hours from Istanbul. We paused on the Meriç Köprüsü to take this photo before we found nearby Emirgan Aile Çay Bahçesi and stopped for an Efes beer.

§  In May, while we celebrated my birthday dinner at Club Arma Restoran in Antalya, hubby took some photos here. I can't forget the sublime dinner we feasted on of levrek carpaccio and ahtapot izgara and the excellent service we received - including a special birthday dessert!

Even though the sun set behind us in Antalya, we enjoyed the sea view.

§  In July, we took our American friends on a 6-hour road trip to Bozcaada - a lovely island in the Aegean Sea along Turkey's western coast. Do as the locals do - bring a blanket and a bottle of wine to the far western edge of the island. Soon, you'll be sipping wine along the legendary Polente Feneri and watching the sunset behind the windmill farm here.

Perfect timing as a large ship passed by in the distance.

A view of the wind farm on Bozcaada, Turkey.

§  During Ramazan in the sweltering month of August, Jason and I took another Turkish road trip, which included stops in Cunda Adası, Foça, Bergama, Ephesus and Kusadası.

(Taken with my cell phone.) Day 1 on Cunda Adası.

Day 2: on the outskirts of  Foça - a small town about 130 km south of  Cunda Adası.

§  In September, I traveled with a girlfriend to Patmos and nearly got stranded on the island of Samos because of the Greek strikes. Please read: Strangers, Stranded in Samos for the harrowing tale.

Our boat was just coming into shore as the sun set by Patmos, Greece.

§  In October, we celebrated hubby's birthday in Fethiye where we had a fun, but short weekend jaunt. We walked down to the marina with a brown bag of Efes beer bottles and our camera. Drinking a beer in public while sitting on the boardwalk and watching the sunset is probably easier to do in off-peak season.

Seems like there are hundreds of sailboats in the Fethiye Marina.

§  For the Kurban Bayramı in November, we enjoyed watching the sun set over the Indian Ocean in Bali for the first time. This was an amazing trip!

Relaxing at the Nammos Beach club in Bali.

§  After I taught my baking classes in Bodrum at the Erenler Sofrasi, we stopped in the quaint, fishing village of Güvercinlik before heading back to Istanbul. Per Asli's recommendation, we ordered a levrek and çupra dinner with our Efes beer and then watched the fishing boats head to shore as the sun set.

The water was so clear and calm here in  Güvercinlik, Turkey.

Which sunset photo is your favorite? 

If you want to see more sunsets in Turkey, please check out Turkish Travel Blog and Turkey's For Life.

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