Friday, January 17, 2014

Winter officially arrived in Warsaw two days ago.

On Wednesday, snow fell nearly nonstop all day – the first snowfall of 2014! I woke up to more snowflakes this morning, and the snow looks like it won’t be leaving anytime soon according to our extended weather forecast.

Well, for our first winter in Poland, I must admit I’m happy we have escaped the snow for this long. Everyone tells us that we are having an unusual winter. The previous winter lasted from late October in 2012 to the first week of April, when we moved to Warsaw. What a wonderful welcome gift!
Our first day in Warsaw on April 1, 2013.
A true April Fool's Joke courtesy of Mother Nature.
 
Prior to this week, I had only seen a dusting of snow on December 6 when I arrived bleary eyed from my holiday trip in the U.S. I wouldn’t have minded a little snow on Christmasbut that did not happen. Now, Warsaw is covered in a white, wintery glow!

Though I really didn’t want to leave my toasty, warm apartment, I decided to break in my new winter boots and take some photos around the city, which did look pretty covered in the fresh snow. I only took my cell phone because I didn’t want our good camera to get ruined. This will give you just a little taste of what we’re experiencing.

I’m pretty positive this snowfall won’t be our last. Stay tuned!

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Two nights ago, I was the perfect Turkish housewife and cooked up a storm.

I made a herbed salad topped with nar (a version of Claudia’s toros salatası), a creamy celeriac soup, zeytinyağlı pırasa (leeks in olive oil) and finally Turkish etli kereviz dolması (meat-stuffed celeriac). I told my husband he better enjoy all this now before I start my Polish lessons because I doubt I’ll be cooking much then!
Last week, I fondly recalled the etli kereviz dolması that my friend enjoyed at Çiya when I wrote that blog post. I couldn’t stop thinking about that dish! I had some leftover ground lamb in the freezer, and I can easily find celeriac at the markets here in Warsaw. With that in mind, I bought a kilo of celeriac at the BioBazar this past weekend.

The only problem is that celeriac is a pain in the butt to clean, hollow out and stuff! I found this article on how to easily clean celeriac, which helped immensely. Then, I used a melon baller to hollow out the insides of my celeriac once they were cut in half. Be sure to use lots of lemon juice with the cleaned celeriac halves to prevent browning.
I chatted with my girlfriend in NYC via Skype for nearly an hour while I cleaned the celeriac! If anyone has an easier way to do so, please let me know.

Once the celeriac was cleaned, I had about 2 cups worth of celeriac pieces, so I decided to make a quick soup. I sautéd onion and garlic, added the celeriac pieces and cooked with about 1 quart of chicken broth. Later, I pureed the soup and seasoned with salt and pepper. Perfect first course to go with the salad!

Once the celeriac were stuffed and baking, I moved onto the next dish – zeytinyağlı pırasa. For this recipe, I used my handy Sultan’s Kitchen: A Turkish Cookbook. I often turn to this cookbook for inspiration when I’m at home.

While the etli kereviz dolması turned out delicious, I doubt I’ll be making this recipe anytime soon. I found it very tiresome scooping out the insides of the celeriac. But if you have the time someday, please do try my recipe and let me know how it turns out!

Afiyet olsun!
Turkish Etli Kereviz Dolması (Meat-Stuffed Celeriac)
Ingredients:
1          kilo                  celeriac (Note: mine were quite small, about 8 total)
200      grams               ground lamb or beef
1          ea.                    medium onion, chopped small or grated
½         cup                  flat-leaf parsley, chopped small
1          teaspoon          dried dill
50        grams               long-grain rice (about ¼ cup)
1          Tablespoon      nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses)
To taste                       salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 ½      ea.                    lemon

As needed: butter and olive oil

Clean, peel and cut in half each celeriac. Using a melon baller or paring knife, hollow out the inside of each celeriac half. Immediately, place the celeriac in cold water with the lemon juice to prevent discoloration.

In a medium-sized bowl, combine the ground meat, onion, herbs, rice, nar ekşisi, salt and pepper together for the stuffing.

Fill each celeriac with the stuffing mixture. Place in a large oven-safe cooking dish. Then, top a few with dollops of butter and drizzle with a little olive oil. Fill the dish with water about one-third of the way up the celeriac.
Cover and bake in a 350 F/175 C oven for 45 minutes or until the celeriac are tender. If you have larger celeriac, then you will need to increase your cooking time too. Alternatively, you could cook the celeriac in a pot fitted with a lid on your stovetop.

Note: we enjoyed this celeriac dish even more the next day when topped with a bit of garlicky yogurt.

Friday, January 10, 2014

When we lived in Istanbul, I loved taking our visitors from the European side to the Anatolian part of the city.

Not only could our friends enjoy a vapur ride on the Bosphorus, but they also could say they had been to “Asia.” I would even time our visit so we could eat at one of my favorite and one-of-a-kind places in the city – Çiya located in the Kadıköy neighborhood.

In the last few years, Çiya has earned the recognition as one of the city’s foodie hotspots, as mentioned by IstanbulEats, DeliciousIstanbul and Parla Food. Çiya's owner/chef, Musa Dağdeviren, from Gaziantep in southern Turkey, has travelled all over Turkey as well as the Balkans and neighboring countries collecting his recipes. The result is some of the most distinctive dishes you’ll find in Istanbul such as candied vegetables, meats cooked with seasonal fruits and wild herbs and greens. Dağdeviren’s menu is always changing at his three locations located on the same pedestrian-only street in Kadıköy.
On my initial visit to Çiya with Selin of Turkish Flavours in 2011, Dağdeviren was making Turkish pide and kindly hung out with our group for a bit. Of course, I had to ask if I could get my photo taken with the chef, and he obliged.
As soon as you walk into Çiya, you’ll notice its fantastic salad bar that’s always filled with unique wild herbs and greens, hummus and other seasonal nibbles. This is where I start. Grab a plate, select your favorite dishes and then be sure to get your plate weighed by the helpful staff. You could make a meal just out of this salad bar!
The main dishes always change, depending on the season, but you’ll usually find a few soups as well as several meat-based dishes such as kuzu etli ayva dolması (lamb cooked with quince), celeriac stuffed with rice and ground beef, vişneli köfte (meatballs cooked in a tangy sour cherry sauce) or a tasty meat stew with baby okra. I find it difficult not to order one of everything especially if it’s a dish I haven’t tried before. These dishes aren't fancy, just honest, homecooked food, and the flavors are outstanding.
One of my favorite dishes when it's in season - kuzu etli ayva dolması.

Conclude your delightful meal with a refreshing şerbet, a sweet, fruit-based beverage popular during the Ottoman era.

For dessert, I always have a hard time deciding between künefe or katmer, both desserts hail from southeast Turkey. However, if you would like a unique dessert, order Çiya’s plate of candied fruits and vegetables. Who knew candied olives could be so tasty?
Dessert time at Çiya.
During my next visit to Istanbul this spring, I might have to include a stop at Çiya as well!

Location:
Çiya Sofrası and Çiya Kebab (right across the street from each other)
Güneşlibahçe Sokak 43
Kadıköy, Istanbul

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

It only took us three years to do something nearly every first-time tourist does in Istanbul.

Before we moved from Istanbul last year, we made a bucket list of things we still wanted to do in the city. One of those items was riding the historic tram that trundles down the pedestrian-only Istiklal Caddesi in Taksim.
You cannot miss the historic Tünel Tram in the Taksim neighborhood in Istanbul.

I always pooh-pawed the idea of taking this tram. For one, it’s always crowded; and two, it was something ONLY tourists did. I was never a true tourist in Istanbul. I moved to this historical, cosmopolitan city in 2010 as a first-time resident, newly married, and without ever seeing it in person.

Of course, I ended up doing many touristy things over and over, especially when friends came to visit us. However, riding this tram was never one of those things. Not riding this tram while living in Istanbul perhaps is comparable to never setting foot in Times Square if you had lived in NYC like we once did.

The historic red and white Tünel Tram runs down Istiklal Caddesi (once called the Grand Rue de Pera) from Taksim Square to Tünel Square – a distance of 1.64 km (1 mile). The tram was first introduced in 1875, taken out of service in 1961 to be replaced by buses, and was revived again in 1990. Today, the trams carry an average of 6,000 passengers daily!
If you do decide to take the tram, I can’t promise you will arrive at your destination any quicker than if you just walked the 15 or 20 minutes. The ride is relatively slow as the conductor must constantly ring the bell to make the pedestrians move out of the tram’s way. However, the ride offers tourists and residents alike a quick view of life on Istiklal Cadessi, and maybe you will shave a few minutes off your commute.

For us, riding the historic Tünel Tram was just another item crossed off our Istanbul bucket list!
If you’d like read more about Istanbul during the late 1900s as the Ottoman Empire was waning, I can highly recommend a historical fiction book called, The Sultan’s Seal by Jenny White. Her book follows the main character, Kamil Pasa, a magristrate over the Pera and Galata neighborhood, as he tries to solve a murder mystery. The book goes into great detail about the old neighborhoods of Taksim, Galata and Pera. It’s a fantastic read!

“A horse-drawn tram clangs along the (Grand Rue de Pera), carrying matrons from the new northern suburbs into town for shopping…Kamil surveys the early morning bustle of Istanbul’s most modern quarter. Apprentices balance nested copper tins of hot food and trays of steaming tea, hurrying toward customers waiting in shops and hotels…,” excerpt taken from The Sultan’s Seal.

Monday, January 6, 2014

With a new year beginning, I cannot help but reflect on the previous year and our former expat life in Istanbul.

With the current political turmoil happening in Turkey, I’m constantly thinking about our good friends and what the future may hold. I worry. The Turkish lira is at an all-time low. The government kicked off the new year with hefty tax increases on alcohol, cigarettes andfuel. And you must be careful about what you say on Twitter; and, heaven forbid if you wave a shoebox in the air! Every day, I read something more ridiculous in the news.

In some ways, I am relieved we are no longer living in Istanbul. My husband’s salary would have been drastically reduced as a result of the lira weakening while the cost of going out to eat and drink would have increased. During the three years we lived there, our rent had increased by 20 percent. If we hadn’t moved to Warsaw when we did, we would have needed to find a new apartment anyway. Our life is easier and less expensive here.
Yep, I'm still in love with this crazy, congested city! 
When I returned for visits in July and September, Istanbul’s traffic seemed to only have gotten worse. Traffic jams started at 3 p.m. and would last until 8 or 9 p.m. Just a week ago, it took my friends nearly four hours to get from the Ataturk Airport to Bostancı on the Asian side. I do NOT miss the traffic! Now, it only takes me about 30 minutes to get everywhere I want in Warsaw.

But I do miss my friends, most of all! We made some amazing friends with Americans, Canadians, a French couple and with several Turks. To me, the good friends we made is what made Istanbul special.
Our going-away party in March 2013 in Istanbul.
Our friends, Ken and Earl, former owners of Denizen Coffee, hosted our goodbye party. I miss these guys!
Christmas 2012 in Istanbul with my girlfriends.
Together, we celebrated Thanksgiving, Christmas, birthdays and more together. We went on trips to Konya, N.Cyprus, Safranbolu and CundaAdası together. I’m still trying to cultivate those same kind of friendships in our new city. It takes time.
Let's just say our last night in Istanbul as residents included lots of Turkish raki, wine and mezes at a local meyhane in Taksim.
I miss seeing the Bosphorus. There’s something magical about drinking a çay along the banks of the Bosphorus and watching the world pass you by. Taking a vapur ride and seeing the city’s minaret-studded skyline never gets old.
On the vapur ride to Kadıköy, you'll pass by the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya.
Breakfast by the Bosphorus in Istanbul.
I miss my weekly visits to the pazar. Turkey’s fresh produce and the abundance of it is like none other where I’ve lived before. Right now, it’s mandalina and nar season in Turkey. Luckily, I have been able to seasonally find fresh Turkish figs and pomegranates at my local grocery stores.
Look for these fresh fruit juice stands throughout Istanbul!
I still miss the pulsating vibrancy and the tantalizing tastes of Eminönü. I think I could have visited this bustling neighborhood every day and always found something new. I cannot wait to visit again during March!
Outside of the Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar) in Istanbul. 
I must stock up on Turkish pul biber during my next visit!
I even miss hearing the call to prayer from the mosques throughout the city. Now, I hear church bells from my balcony in Warsaw.

As I’ve mentioned previously, I am learning to love many things about my new country here in Poland, and I’m finally starting to take Polish lessons this month. (Wish me luck!) I always try to look for the silver lining in any situation. Maybe in time, I’ll be able to wax nostalgic about it as well.

Until then and even despite of the current political situation, Istanbul will always hold a special place in my heart.
Sailing away on the Bosphorus in Istanbul.
(Dear readers, I'll be posting some more blog posts about Istanbul during the next few weeks!)

Friday, January 3, 2014

With an imposing, 14th-century gothic church nearby, horse-drawn carriages and a historical market square, I couldn’t have imagined a more perfect place for a Christmas market.

The Main Market Square, called the Rynek Glówny, in Krakow offers an impressive backdrop for a Christmas market. On Sunday, after a 3-hour train ride from Warsaw, we arrived at the market with our visiting friends. Lucky for us, the market, which traditionally starts the last week of November, stayed open until Dec. 31. this year.

I couldn’t wait to explore the market!
St. Mary's Church, re-built in the 14th century (originally built in the early 13th century), dominates Krakow's Main Market Square.
The scent of sizzling fat Polish sausages immediately hit my senses. Several busy stalls sold all kinds of delicious pork products such grilled kielbasa, various sausages, sauerkraut cooked with porky-goodness bits and a smaller form of Poland’s national dish of golonka (roasted ham hock). And dear readers, you know how much I love pork!
While the guys ordered grilled kielbasa for us, I wandered over to a stall selling Hungarian lángos (a deep-fried flat bread made of a potato-based dough)  – the same ones I had eaten at the Great Market Hall in Budapest. Later on, we were tempted not just once, but four times by the grilled oscypek, a smoky, salty sheep’s milk cheese from the Tatra mountains. This warm cheese is particularly tasty with a dollop of tangy cranberry compote.
After our bellies were full, we continued to warm up our bodies with Poland’s mulled wine, which was sold from dozens of giant barrels with medieval lettering reading: “GRZANIEC.”

Krakow’s Christmas market also offered about 40 rustic wooden stalls selling the folk art and handicraft items that were plainly missing from the markets we recently visited in Copenhagen. We found traditional  Polish pottery, embroidered tablecloths, metalwork, hand-carved spoons, Nativity scenes and bowls, stained glass Christmas ornaments, wooden swords for children, handmade candles, woolen slippers and hats and jewelry as well as gingerbread cookies from Toruń and other sweets. If you're looking for a particular folk craft or decoration, you certainly will find it here!
 
Our friends were delighted to explore this Christmas market as well as the stalls inside the historic Cloth Hall with us.
Christmas lights inside Krakow's Cloth Hall market.
When we tired of shopping, we roamed Krakow’s cobblestone streets and visited numerous beautiful churches. Did you know that Krakow trails just behind Rome with its abundances of churches per square mile? In fact, in the Middle Ages, Krakow was known as “Small Rome” for its many churches, according to our Rick Steves’ guidebook. (I’ll try to share some of my church photos soon.) 

This was our third trip to Krakow, and I’m betting it won’t be our last. Visiting this festive Christmas market certainly cinched that deal!
Cobblestone streets decorated with Christmas lights in Krakow, Poland.

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Wherever you are in the world, I hope you had a fantastic New Year’s celebration!

Here in Warsaw, we rung in the new year at home with my longtime friend, Becca, and her husband, who are visiting us from the U.S. We’ve known each other for more than 12 years and have stayed in touch through all of our many moves in the U.S. and abroad. I feel blessed to have good friends like this! We also celebrated the festivities with our new Hungarian friends – one of the best parts of our expat life – meeting new friends.
Good friends - Becca and me at home in Warsaw.
Our home was filled with good food, which included a full-sit down dinner with a creamy celery root soup with truffled croutons, herb-crusted beef tenderloin, au gratin potatoes, roasted Brussels sprouts and a berry topped New York Cheesecake (In Poland, you can substitute serek smietankowy for the labne.) Luckily, I had three prep cooks in the kitchen with me to help with this amazing meal!
New York cheesecake topped with a mixed berry compote. I made the compote with some of my frozen cherries, strawberries and blueberries (leftover from the summer bounty), a bit of sugar and orange juice.
Of course, hubby was our drink mixologist and whipped up a batch of these pomegranate margaritas, which we like to refer to as Nar-garitas. This drink is the perfect reminder of our love for Istanbul. In fact, these pomegranates had labels on them saying they were from Turkey! I seem to find a bit of Turkey now wherever we go.
A variety of drinks followed after our Nar-garitas, which may explain why some of us are feeling a bit rough this morning, as well as an evening filled with dancing to some of my favorite 80s tunes and dance music. What a fun evening!

Finally, Warsaw did not disappoint us and displayed a multitude of fireworks in the sky throughout the evening, concluding with a fabulous explosion at midnight. We had the perfect view from our balcony and could run inside when we got too cold.
I’m a little relieved to put 2013 behind us as it was a tough year. I moved from a city I loved and had to start all over again. Such is the life as an expat! I’m eagerly looking forward to a fun-filled 2014 and settling down in our new city.

Happy New Year my friends! May 2014 be filled with new adventures, good food and terrific travels!

As always, thanks for reading!
We had a fantastic view of the fireworks over Warsaw!