Turkish Pide with Eggs in Istanbul

Have you ever eaten something so delicious for the first time and wondered how the heck it took you so long to discover it?

I’m sure all of us foodies have.

In Istanbul, one of those recently discovered items is pide yumurtalı (Turkish pizza with egg). I used to order my pide with sucuk and kaşar peynir (Turkish cheddar cheese). Then, one day, the photo on a menu of a pide with a sunny yellow egg on top jumped out at me. I want that one I pointed out on the menu.

Unfortunately, the egg didn’t come out as oozing sunny side up as it looked like in the picture, but it was delicious.

Often, we’ve walked past a small pide shop near the Saturday pazar in Beşiktaş. One day, at my urging, we finally decided to stop and warm up with a bowl of soup and a pide. Karadeniz Pide Kebab ve Yemek Salonu is a simple place where you’ll find two or three daily soups, a few meze items and pide. I love the fact that almost every Turkish café serves soup!

If you can resist the gözleme at the pazar, stop by Karadeniz for a quick lunch. I think the cost for the two us was 24 tl ($13 USD).

Now, the best place I’ve discovered to eat pide yumurtalı is at Kırçiçeği in Ortaköy. Somehow, I received the most lovely, golden, oozing egg on top of my pide. I used the crispy crust to dip into my egg. Amazing!

Kırçiçeği, which means wildflower in Turkish, has several locations in Istanbul as well as Izmir, Bodrum and Ankara. This family-owned company, originally from Aydın, has been open since 1985.

Now, I haven’t quite figured out how to say that I want the egg to be sunny side up like I had at Kırçiçeği. Can anyone advise what Turkish words I need to say when I order my pide next time?

Afiyet olsun!

Locations:

Karadeniz Pide Kebab ve Yemek Salonu

Ali Suavi Sokak (Şehit Ali Kerem Mergen Sokak)

Beşiktaş

Tel: +90 212 261 2347

Kırçiçeği

Mecidiye Mah.

Ortaköy Değirmenci Sokak No:41 (by the Starbucks)

Ortaköy

Tel: +90 212 260 3535

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Following Turkish Coffee in Eminönü in Istanbul: Photo Post

During my many jaunts in Eminönü, the intense smell of freshly ground coffee beans seems to follow me everywhere.

If you follow this irresistible scent, you will find at least a dozen people waiting in line at the small windowed-storefront of Kurukaveci Mehmet Efendi. This coffee shop has been roasting raw coffee beans, grinding them and selling freshly roasted and ready-ground Turkish coffee since 1871. That year, at the age of 14, the shop’s founder, Mehmet Efendi, took over the family business, and today it is run by his grandchildren, according to the company’s website.

I’ve seen a line here as early as 9 a.m. and as late as 6 p.m. Turks love their coffee, and you’ll see plenty of tourists buying it too. By the way, the line seems to move quickly.

If you know Turkish coffee, then you know the global brand of Kurukaveci Mehmet Efendi. However, you might not know that the shop’s coffee beans are roasted in an unassuming building a few doors away.

In the southwest corner behind the Mısır Çarşısı (Spice Bazaar), you will see a white Ottoman-scripted plaque dated 1912 like the one pictured below.

Step inside this han and bypass the small store that sells cheap, 200-meter rolls of baking paper (my favorite), plastic drinking straws and colorful paper napkins. On your left, you will find rows and rows of burlap bags filled with coffee beans from Brazil. Behind a nearby closed door, you’ll hear the roaring sound of those coffee beans being roasted.

To your right, you’ll see a small window where you can order your own cup of freshly made Turkish coffee or a glass of çay. Don’t be intimidated. Just grab a seat like I’ve done. It’s a unique place to take visitors.

The guys are friendly and willing to chat a bit if you want to practice your Turkish.

Then, sit back with your Turkish coffee and try to imagine all the footsteps that have passed through this Ottoman-era building. It may be a bit dingy now, but I'd say it just has character.

I'll drink Turkish coffee now and then, but I'd rather have a latte.

To learn more about Turkish coffee, check out this post from my blogger friend, Claudia, who recently wrote: Iconic Turkish Coffee - Turk Kahvesi.

Traditional copper cezve - or the cooking vessel of Turkish coffee.

Fancy, silver Turkish serving cups with lids so the coffee stays hot!

This is how you deliver a cup of Turkish coffee inside the han.

These Turkish guys were such great sports and posed for my photos.

More customers in line at Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi.

Location:

Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi

Tahmis Sok. No: 66

Eminönü

Tel: +90-212-511-4262

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Expat Life: Going to the Doctor, Kuaför in Istanbul

As an expat, going to the doctor or to the kuaför (Turkish hair salon) are two experiences that can make you cry.

Well, at least if you are a woman.

I’ve dealt with both while living in Istanbul.

Actually, I’ve left several different American hair stylists in tears as well after a haircut or coloring gone wrong. I’ve had my hair colored all different shades of blonde and brown over the years, including a fluffy, blonde perm in the early 1990s (picture on right). What was I thinking?

Finding a good hair stylist is important no matter where you live. In Istanbul, at least I was referred to a Turkish guy that speaks a little English, but is a little too proud of his çok altın (very gold) highlights every time.

“Evet, Tekken Bey, çok güzel, çok altın,” I always tell him.

At least, I like the cut, and the price is fair, so I can’t complain too much. It sure beats trying to figure out what box of hair dye I would use instead. I’ve heard of other expat friends paying 300 tl or more for a haircut and color in Etiler and Istinye Park too. No, thanks!

Finding a doctor, especially a good OB/GYN, also is problematic. I’ve relied on friends’ recommendations and have had mixed results.

First, I ended up at the American Hospital with a female doctor, whom delivered six of my friends’ babies, but I thought she had an unfriendly bedside manner. Her English was near perfect, but she was always icy toward me and my husband. Not exactly the kind of personality you want to deal with when you’re trying to get pregnant.

Then, earlier this year, I went to another OB/GYN – this time a Turkish male – at the German Hospital. He was kind, friendly, answered all my questions and didn’t treat me like an idiot.

However, I had to go to another clinic for some specialty tests in an unfamiliar part of the city. It was raining. I was lost and in near tears until a friendly, older Turkish gentleman helped me find where I needed to go.

No one spoke English at this clinic. I was okay for awhile, but my Turkish comprehension doesn’t cover medical terms.

I lay down on the cold, flat table so the tests could begin. I was uncomfortably half way undressed. I was exposed and vulnerable. I wished I had a friend with me to hold my hand. I wished my husband was there.

The technician explained some things in Turkish that I didn’t really understand. “Kesmek?” Doesn’t that mean “to cut” in Turkish? Dear, god!

That’s when the tears started. The tears kept coming. I couldn’t help it.

I didn’t understand, and I was alone. The exam seemed to last forever, but in reality took only 10 minutes or so.

Some days that’s what my expat life is like here. I don’t understand, and I feel completely like a foreigner.

As an expat, have you ever had a similar experience going to the doctor or hair stylist while you lived abroad?

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Healthy Sweet Potato & Parsnip Quick Bread

I even fooled my dad into thinking this snack was pumpkin bread!

Last week, I was in Nebraska visiting my family; and of course, I couldn’t help but whip up a few healthy recipes in the kitchen. I always like to leave a few different things in the fridge or freezer before I leave.

See, my mom tends to make the same recipes over and over. There’s very little variety. When I was a child, you could count on Sunday meatloaf, Tuesday tacos and Friday pizza practically like clockwork. Today, things haven’t changed much except now the sodium, butter and fat content is almost nil.

When I’m home, I try and spice things up a little bit.

I’ve made this heart-healthy pumpkin quick bread recipe a couple of times. This time, I decided to make a mash or puree from some withering sweet potatoes and parsnips that mom had in the pantry. Then, I’d use this mixture to substitute for the pumpkin puree in the original recipe. When I worked in NYC, we once made a parsnip and maple cake. I knew the flavors would be good, but mom was skeptical – as always.

“You know dad won’t eat that,” she told me while I was in the kitchen.

See, I’m an optimist – the complete opposite of my mom. I figured if I added enough cinnamon and nutmeg, my dad really wouldn’t taste the difference. Both sweet potatoes and parsnips contain natural sugars. I like them both roasted with savory spices or sweetened for desserts.

Just to be safe, I also made one batch of normal pumpkin bread.

Once the smell of spices and baking permeated the kitchen, I sliced up the sweet potato and parsnip quick bread version, buttered it with heart-healthy margarine and served two slices on a plate to my dad.

“This is good,” he told me.

“Dad, did you know you’re eating vegetables?” I asked.

He shook his head no as he ate another bite of my sweet potato and parsnip quick bread.

Afiyet olsun!

Note: if you are reading this post in Istanbul,  I know it’s difficult to find sweet potatoes, and parsnips simply don’t exist. Save this recipe for the next time balkabak is in season. Also a 1/2 cup of egg substitute equals 2 large eggs, or you could sub 2 egg whites for one of the eggs to reduce the fat content.

For more sweet potato and parsnip recipes, please check out: Carole's Chatter: Food on Friday.

Healthy Sweet Potato & Parsnip Quick Bread

(Adapted from the American Heart Assn. Cookbook)

Ingredients:

2          c.                     all-purpose flour

2          tsp.                  baking powder

1          tsp.                  ground cinnamon

1          tsp.                  ground ginger

¼         tsp.                  freshly grated nutmeg

1/8       tsp.                  salt

1          c.                     cooked, mashed sweet potatoes and parsnips OR canned pumpkin puree

½         c.                     egg substitute such as Egg Beaters

1/3       c.                     fat-free milk

2          T.                     heart-healthy margarine, melted

1          T.                     canola or vegetable oil

½         c.                     chopped walnuts

½         c.                     granulated sugar

½         c.                     brown sugar

1. If you want to make a sweet potato and parsnip puree, first peel 2 medium-sized sweet potatoes and 2 parsnips. Cut into 1-inch chunks. Place in a small pot with an inch or so of water. Cook for about 20 minutes, or until the veggies are tender. Drain off any extra water. I used a fork to mash the sweet potatoes and parsnips together. Alternatively, use a food processor and puree together. (Note: you will have extra “mash,” but it easily can be frozen in a plastic bag or placed in ice cube trays to make cubes and used for another recipe.)

Sweet potato and parsnip mash

2. Preheat the oven to 350 F/176 C. Lightly grease a large metal loaf pan or use two smaller loaf pans.

3. In a large bowl, combine and sift the first six, dry ingredients together.

4. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients. Then, add the wet ingredients – puree, egg substitute, milk, margarine and oil. Mix together.

5. Lastly, add the walnuts and two sugars. Mix well together until you no longer see the flour.

6. Divide the batter between the two pans. Bake the two loaves for about 30-40 minutes until golden brown and the center is done. If you are using a large loaf pan, the baking time should be increased to about 60 minutes.

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Milano Gourmet: A Foodie Shop Opens in Nişantaşı in Istanbul

I've always been on the lookout for yabancı products in Istanbul.

Now, there’s another gourmet shop nearby in Nişantaşı with specialty products such as sesame oil, HP sauce, dulce de leche and most importantly, foreign cheeses, deli meats and beers.

Last month, Milano Gourmet opened up in a corner space formerly occupied by an expensive furniture store. I’ve been watching this space for awhile since I walk by here to get to the metro. Finally, the space is being used for something worthwhile.

 Inside, you’ll find a gigantic refrigerated section filled with tons of Turkish mezze items, Turkish cheese and deli meats as well as Parmesan, mascarpone, gouda, gruyere and Spanish manchego cheeses. (The shop’s selection is very similar to the items at Şütte, which is just a few blocks away.) 

At the far end, you’ll find a tiny section devoted to domuz – yep, pork products get their own corner. Skinny bacon, prosciutto and Italian deli meats live here. The sales guy smiled at me when I asked if the store had domuz.

In the beer section, you’ll find foreign beers such as Duvel, Peroni, Brooklyn Lager, Corona and a few others I didn’t recognize. My beloved Brooklyn Lager does cost 12.50 tl per bottle, but it’s the only place I’ve seen it for sale now. La Cave used to sell it, but doesn’t anymore.

I had originally posted this photo on Instagram when I found my beer.

 Downstairs you’ll find a wine cellar and a small wine bar. That part wasn’t open yet when I last popped into Milano. Looks like you should be able to enjoy a glass of wine or get a bottle to share with friends here after work.

Milano Gourmet also sells olive oils produced in different parts of the Aegean region, squid ink pasta, sushi rice, risotto and Jaime Oliver’s (complete) line of pestos and pasta sauces (which I found a bit odd). However, in case you haven’t heard, Oliver is set to open his first restaurant in Turkey, Jaimie’s Italian, at the mega complex of Zorlu Center in Istanbul later this year.

You never know what you’ll find at Milano Gourmet.

Afiyet olsun!

Location:

Şakayık Sokak, Çınar Apt. No:54/1A

Nişantaşı, Istanbul

Phone: 0212-233-1033

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Red Rooster: Soul Food & Jazz in NYC’s Harlem

In NYC, some friends have told me they never venture north of a certain address, say north of 59^th Street.

Too bad! These friends are missing out on one of the best nights I’ve ever had up in Harlem on 125^th Street.

During my recent U.S. trip, we met up with old friends in NYC for an “expat dinner” in our honor at Red Rooster, a soul food-inspired restaurant owned by Marcus Samuelsson, former chef at Aquavit. Samuelsson, who was born in Ethiopia, raised in Sweden and has been a seven-year resident of Harlem, opened the restaurant in December 2010.

When we walked into Red Rooster at 8 p.m., the bar was two and three people deep, and the dining room was packed. This was a Monday night. On 125th Street. In Harlem. (My friend made the reservation nearly 2 months in advance.) The restaurant was pulsing with energy and excitement. Members of the live blues and jazz band were setting up with their instruments.

I repeat, this was a Monday night!

In the past, maybe 10 years ago or so, Harlem wasn’t necessarily a neighborhood you would GO to in Manhattan. But in recent years, Harlem has been gentrifying with refurbished brownstones and turning into a modern place where you DO want to go and hang out with friends.

Red Rooster is a part of the new, modern Harlem.

Our group started with a round of drinks at the bar where a handsome bartender donning a bowtie was working. I selected a sweet drink, aptly named “Yes, chef,” that contained mint-infused vodka, ginger beer, pineapple and spices. I think I had two more of these during dinner!

Once we sat down at our table, we ordered three appetizers – crab cakes with a fiery mayonnaise, smoked trout with a green goddess dressing and a smoked salmon tartare. The smoked trout was my favorite.

The restaurant’s famous corn bread, cut in gigantic slabs, arrived with a pat of honey butter and a ramekin of spicy tomato jam. I could have eaten a whole plate of this sweet corn bread!

Our favorite entrees included the fried yard bird (chicken, in the slang of old Harlem) served with a white gravy and  a ramekin of hot sauce and a complicated version of macaroni and cheese, featuring orecchiette pasta and a mix of Gouda, New York Cheddar and Comté cheeses, with a crisp arugula salad on the side. I loved my bite of my friend’s mac-n-cheese!

I was slightly disappointed with my jerk chicken dish because I expected it to be spicier. One of my old roommates was from Barbados, and she made the best, tear-inducing jerk chicken I’ve ever eaten. Another disappointment was the restaurant’s take on dirty rice and shrimp, made with basmati rice and bourbon maple syrup.

Oh well, I guess it’s hit or miss with some of the food. 

For dessert, we ended with fried sweet-potato dumpling holes with cinnamon sugar and the house mud pie served with caramelized bananas. The doughnuts were right up my alley!

All the while we were eating and drinking, the band played familiar-sounding blues and jazz songs. I almost thought I had been transported to New Orleans – one of my favorite southern cities. At one point, I wanted to get up and dance even though there was no room to dance!

We had a blast eating, drinking and hanging out with our good friends in Harlem.

Red Rooster is definitely one address north of 59^th Street I’d travel to in NYC anytime!

Hanging out with old friends. Two of my girlfriends here I've known for 30 years!

Location:

310 Lenox Avenue (at 125^th Street)

New York, NY

Take the 2/3 subway line to 125^th Street. The restaurant is just around the corner on Lenox Avenue.

Phone: 212-792-9001

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Spring Popping Up in Pennsylvania

Greetings from somewhat dreary and slightly snowy Nebraska!

I’m currently spending a week with my family here, but last week we spent four days in Pennsylvania where spring was certainly in the air. We visited family and friends and attended our good friends’ wedding out in western Pennsylvania. The weather has cooperated with us for the most part as we flew and drove hundreds of miles around the East Coast.

One of the sure signs of spring out east is the sunny yellow color of forsynthia blossoms. Almost every front yard contains these cheerful colored bushes. You’ll even see forsynthia randomly along side of the road.

During a few pleasant mornings, we took a stroll through the nearby wooded areas, and I decided to test out my new camera lens on the wildflowers we encountered. I have wanted a 24-105 mm Canon lens for two years. We finally could justify the expensive price tag since I take on average 8,000 photos per year!

This camera lens is amazing and takes some fabulous upclose photos! Just look at the morning dew droplets on some of these wildflowers. And the green moss covering an old log is one of my favorite photos too.

Happy spring (again)! Hopefully, spring will arrive soon for my parents too!

I took this photo out in western PA. Loved the rolling hills and the bright blue skies!

Morning dew droplets on white wildflowers.

We don't see many squirrels in Istanbul, but we did in PA!

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