To
an American or other foreigners, having fresh cucumbers, tomatoes and parsley
as part of your breakfast selection may seem strange at first. However, it is a
Turkish tradition I fell in love with and have recently been rhapsodizing about
to two expats who are soon moving to Istanbul. I
miss the breakfast plates piled high with varieties of Turkish cheese, balkaymak (honey with clotted cream), green
and black olives, gözleme,
eggs with sucuk, homemade jams,
tahini paste, simits, soft, slices of white bread and the list goes on and on.
Turkish mezes for breakfast at Sütiş. |
Are
you hungry yet?
Well,
since I’ve been telling these new expats about my favorite breakfast places located
in and near the Emirgan
neighborhood, I thought this information would make an excellent blog post as
well. Emirgan is a popular, slightly posh
neighborhood located along the Bosphorus and is known for its many seaside cafés
and the large Emirgan Park. Even though we lived
in the city center, we often retreated to this area on the weekends to indulge
in the Turkish kahvaltı tradition and admire the amazing water views.
I
first heard about Kale Café shortly after we moved to Istanbul. In 2010, chef
and TV show star Anthony Bourdain filmed an episode of his “No
Reservations” television show in Istanbul and showcased this small,
family-owned café. I’ve always admired Bourdain and had a mild crush on him for
awhile. I figured if the café was good enough for him, it was certainly good enough
for us. I recommend ordering the serpme kahvalti (breakfast spread)
and sharing between at least two people. You can order additional egg dishes
separately.
Often,
Kale Café is swamped because of its popularity and that’s how we discovered the
nearby Café Nar. Here, you can order several delicious omelets or breakfast
plates based on Turkish names such as Asli, Beril or Demet. The presentation is
a bit more modern and the portion sizes are more than generous. Just keep waving
down one of the friendly servers if you want more çay to drink.
My
husband and I usually would order one of the omelets and a breakfast plate to
share between the two of us. You can even get small, almost American-like pancakes
here!
Sütiş
has several locations around the city, but we preferred the Emirgan location
because of its spacious, seaside position. This place gets packed on the weekends,
so I’d recommend arriving by 10 a.m. if you don’t want to wait forever for a
table. Here, you want to order small plates of individual items, sort of like
Turkish breakfast mezes.
Photo credit: Emirgan Sütiş |
If
you save room, I also can recommend Sütiş’s selection of homemade desserts and
ice cream, or you’ll have to make another trip back here just to try the sweets!
Afiyet olsun!
7 comments:
Love, love Turkish breakfast and it is best by the Bosphorus, great recommendations - many thanks!:)
Oh, they look delicious!
Thx Ozlem! I hope we can have kahvaltı again in London sometime! :-)
Yes, very delicious! We went several times to all three of these cafés.
Breakfast seems to be the new supper in Turkey theses days.
Hi Ozlem and Joy, can you recommend a kahvalti place in London? Thanks.
This makes me miss Istanbul so much! Our hotel put out this mind-boggling spread every morning, so we never ate out for breakfast. But I'd love to go back and try ALL of these places!
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