Odd Things from Turkey I bring to Poland

I used to stuff my suitcases with all kinds of pork and foreign cheeses whenever we traveled and returned to Istanbul.

Remember this old post: OddThings from America I bring to Turkey?

Funny enough, I now live in the land of pork in Poland. I swear there are more kinds of pork products here than I have ever seen in life including bacon flavored potato chips!

Although I have ready access to all the pork I could ever want, there are many things I still miss from my life in Turkey. Two weeks ago, when I returned to Istanbul for a one-week visit, I came prepared with a long shopping list.

Here's an overview photo of all the things I brought back from Turkey to Poland.

On day one, I visited Bilge, my favorite spice girl at Ucuzcular in the MısırÇarşısı (Spice Bazaar). I bought almond flour, ground cinnamon and cumin, dried thyme, pomegranate lokum (Turkish delight), 10 vanilla beans, Turkish pistachios and nar ekşisi (sour pomegranate sauce). I still have many unopen Turkish spices from our recent move. Soon, I’ll make my own vanilla extract using Polish vodka. I’m sure I could find some of the other items here in Warsaw, but it wouldn’t be quite the same.

Photo of Bilge and me in her shop courtesy of Bilge. Thank you!

On my second day in Istanbul, I visited the 4Levent pazar and bought three inexpensive refills for my nazar incense diffuser. One stall sells the freshest scents such as lilyum (lily), beyaz yasemin (white jasmine) and deniz ferahlığı (sea breeze) from a company called Wickerist. Again, I easily could find incenses elsewhere, but I really like these.

At the Grand Bazaar, I only had a small list that included ceramic trivets and small serving bowls. Well, as you know I also splurged on a Kurdish-made kilim I mentioned on this post: WhyI still Love Istanbul & You Should Too. On my way out, I noticed one of my regular stall holders had started selling the cutest ikat-patterned slippers; and since I actually found a pair in my gigantic size, I had to buy them for only 60 tl.

Here are a couple other odd items from Turkey I brought to Poland:

• A box of Turkish çay – for those days when I don’t want to make a whole pot of tea for myself.
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• Handwoven Turkish hand towels from Jennifer’s Hamam – because I had to get colors to match my new bathrooms at our apartment.
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• 3 sheets of yufka – because I miss eating Turkish börek and want to make my own.
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• Biber salsacı – I love using this Turkish pepper paste to coat vegetables with and roast them as Ozlem of Ozlem’s Turkish Table taught me in our cooking classes together.
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• Üzüm Pekmezi – I used to use this grape molasses to make my own brown sugar for baking. However, üzüm pekmezi is often mixed with tahini and served as part of a traditional Turkish breakfast too. Please visit Kerry over at Earth Laughs in Flowers for her article about Üzüm Pekmezi.
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• Turkish olive oil soaps – I love this kind of soap! What more can I say!

And if I could pack my friends from Istanbul into my suitcase too I would.

Now, it’s your turn: What Turkish items do you bring back to your home country? Or what odd things do you pack in your suitcase to bring back home? 

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Why I Still Love Istanbul & You Should Too

Having just spent a week in my beloved Istanbul, I can reassure you that it’s definitely worth visiting even right now.

Tourism in Turkey seems to have declined sharply, especially in Istanbul, since the events revolving around the Gezi Park protests started in late May. I saw signs of this stillness nearly everywhere I went on the European side. (For another first-hand account, please see this July 18 blog post by Turkish travel writer Pat Yale: Silence Falls on Sultanahmet.)

Istiklal Street at night was eerily quiet. Usually packed cafés and restaurants were half filled (if they were so lucky) with hungry people. My six girlfriends and I had the normally-packed, reservation-only Sensus Wine Bar near Galata Tower practically to ourselves.

A very quiet Istiklal Street in Istanbul.

I hung out in Taksim on last Monday afternoon and evening and for about five hours on Tuesday afternoon. No problems. I will mention there was more police presence up by the square, but that’s all I saw both days. However, on Saturday nights, Taksim is best avoided as the Turkish police still get tear gas happy. 

Here's an afternoon view of Taksim Square taken near Gezi Park, overlooking the construction.

One of my girlfriends stayed six nights at a boutique hotel near Galatasaray for only 35 euros per night compared to the normal 129 euros per night. She was told she could stay as late as she wanted when she requested a late check-out as the hotel was dead. Because there are fewer tourists, you may get an unheard of hotel rate like my friend!

Even if it is summertime and Ramazan, I have never seen Istanbul this quiet in the three years that I lived here!

An afternoon visit to the Grand Bazaar yielded the same results. My kebab guy was ecstatic to see me. “Where have you been abla?” He served us delicious portions of patlıcan soslu and aclılı ezme on the house.

Later on, I got a steal of deal on a beautiful Kurdish kilim. His friends wished him well on his sale. “Inshallah” my girlfriend heard the Turkish rug dealer say as we returned to his third-generation family store. I hadn’t planned to buy a kilim, but I couldn’t resist the deal.

I loved both of these kilims, but I chose and purchased the one on the right.

I’m saddened to see Istanbul in this state. These small shopkeepers don’t deserve this treatment that has befallen them as a result of the actions by the Turkish government. Less adventurous tourists are afraid to travel here as they see images of the Turkish police reacting haphazardly with water cannons and tear gas in the Taksim area.

I’m certainly not happy with the Turkish government and their ridiculous responses to the protesters. However, I won’t get into that rant right now.

But I do want to remind you why you should visit and love Istanbul as much as I do!

7 Reasons to Love Istanbul

Bosphorus

The changing colors of the Bosphorus is one of the many things I miss about Istanbul. The early mornings can turn the waters a hard, steel gray and then a sparkling, brilliant shade of blue or turquoise in the afternoon and even a murky black as the day wears on. Find a café and enjoy the cool sea breeze, or take a vapur ride along the Bosphorus.

A view of the Bosphorus from the Bostanci neighborhood on the Asian side of the city.

Eminönü

Regular readers know how much I love visiting this bustling neighborhood. On my first full day in Istanbul, I paid a visit to Bilge, my favorite spice girl at Ucuzcular in the Mısır Çarşısı (Spice Bazaar). This is THE place to stock up on high quality Turkish spices. I spent 150 tl on my supplies because I’m not sure when I’ll be back again yet.

Pazar

Every neighborhood in Istanbul hosts a pazar (outdoor market) on different days of the week. This visit, I stopped at the Tuesday 4Levent pazar (a 5-minute walk from the Yenilevent exit at the 4Levent metro stop). I enjoyed a cheese and spinach gözleme as a late breakfast. Going to a pazar gives you a chance to see the local color of the city.

Turkish Food

I could go on and on about the Turkish food I ate on this trip in Istanbul. I’m pretty sure I gained another kilo. How could I turn down my favorite balkaymak or künefe? There were kebabs and mezes galore! I’ll tell you more in another post.

Turkish Hospitality

Even if you aren’t a regular customer, you’re bound to get offered çay as soon as you walk into a shop. From the Spice Bazaar to the Grand Bazaar to my shoe repair guy to my Turkish towel shop, I was offered copious amounts of çay. Even if my Turkish was a little rusty, I enjoyed having conversations here. I miss the welcoming Turkish hospitality.

History

I think one of the things that’s always fascinated me about Istanbul is its long, rich and colorful history. The city is ancient compared to America where I’m from. I still love seeing the city’s historic Byzantine walls, the minarets of the Blue Mosque, the Galata Tower and cobblestone streets. These are things that make Istanbul unique and why tourists come to visit.

Friends

Most importantly, I miss all my friends in Istanbul. I have cried, laughed, lamented over Turkish, traveled, confided in and celebrated with these friends. It’s been difficult moving to a new city and starting the process of making friends all over again. I have a feeling though many of my Istanbul friends will be friends for life. Even if you are a tourist in Istanbul, don’t be surprised if make a Turkish friend or two.

I could go on and on about why I love Istanbul, but you should really see this beautiful city for yourself. The city and its shopkeepers need your support!

(For additional reading, please see this July 20 article in The Guardian: The ongoing Turkish protests have left us enlightened and emboldened.)

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Flying Seabird over Istanbul: Aerial Photos

Once we were settled in the Seabird plane, the pilot took us up the Golden Horn a bit so he’d have enough runway for take-off.

He smoothly maneuvered the small plane around. Quickly, we found ourselves gazing down at the Golden Horn and Suleymaniye Mosque as we lifted off into the air.

The Suleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul as we flew by in the Seabird plane.

 The Old City of Istanbul flashed by us, and I was ready with our camera. As you can see from the photos below, we flew over the Blue Mosque, Ayasofya, Nuru Osmaniye Mosque and even a portion of the Grand Bazaar.

Flying over the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, October 2012.

Flying over the Ayasofya in Istanbul, October 2012.

I found it easiest to use the camera’s sports setting so I could take numerous photos in a row and worry about deleting them later. Some of them turned out a bit fuzzy, but overall I was happy with the photos documenting our first seaplane experience and capturing my favorite city on film.

On our return flight from the Turkish island of Bozcaada, we flew closer to the Asian side so we saw parts of Kadıköy, the Fenerbahçe Stadium, Haydarpaşa Train Station and the main Istanbul port.

Flying past the Haydarpaşa Train Station & Kadıköy Iskelesi in Istanbul.

Then, the pilot turned the plane toward the Golden Horn and we continued past the Galata Bridge, Galata Tower and the Beyoğlu neighborhood.

Aerial photo of the Golden Horn & Beyoğlu neighborhood in Istanbul.

Suddenly, the murky waters of the Golden Horn splashed under the plane, and we had landed. The landings were so smooth you really couldn’t tell you had landed except you heard the sound of the water.

Being in a small plane like this gives you a whole different perspective on Istanbul. You see the diverse contrast of old and new Istanbul merging together like some kind of giant puzzle. I was able to see my favorite historic sites as a whole rather than just pieces or the front façade at one time.

I hope you enjoy these aerial photos of Istanbul. Which photo is your favorite?

Next week: Exploring Beautiful Bozcaada  

Previous post: Flying to Beautiful Bozcaada – Our Favorite Turkish Trip in 2012

Here's the main Istanbul port where boats are loaded and unloaded as well as the Bosphorus Bridge in the background.

Flying Seabird over the Fenerbahçe Stadium in Istanbul.

Another view of the Blue Mosque with the Marmara Sea in Istanbul.

Flying over the Nuru Osmaniye Camii and Grand Bazaar area in Istanbul.

Flying over the Galata Bridge and surrounding neighborhood in Istanbul.

An interesting overhead shot of the Galata Bridge from the Seabird plane in Istanbul.

Notice all the Turkish flags displayed to celebrate the bayram holiday in Istanbul.

The initial takeoff along the Golden Horn in the Seabird plane in Istanbul.

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8 Hours in Istanbul

In early January, I had a whole week to show off Istanbul to my friends. This was just enough time to give them a taste, a chance to fall in love with the city and a desire to return someday.

So, imagine only having 1 day - basically 8 daylight hours - to see as much as one could in this magnificent city that spans 2 continents. 

You might say it's impossible and certainly unfair. How can you see thousands of years of history in just 8 hours?

Well, I did it. 

In October, I put together a tight, organized schedule and showed my husband's colleague, Hugh, the top highlights in Sultanahmet in just 8 hours.

I proved it IS possible, but it's certainly not the way I recommend visiting Istanbul. Heck, even after 19 months of living here, I'm still discovering new areas and pieces of the city's history.

  

Here's how to visit Istanbul in 8 hours:

1. Arriving in Sultanahmet

9 a.m. - Take the convenient tram and get off at the Sultanahmet stop. Arrive at Ayasofya around 9 a.m. to avoid the long lines. The mega tour buses show up between 9:30 and 10 a.m. and the ticket line grows exponentially. Take 45 minutes to admire this beautiful church turned mosque turned museum. (Note: our recent guests spent two hours in awe and taking photos inside Ayasofya.)

Inside the Ayasofya - taken from the second floor.

2. Hippodrome area

10 a.m. - Walk across the square and through the Hippodrome area near the Blue Mosque. Try to imagine the rowdy chariot races, javelin games and other ancient practices that took place here.

Starting at the northern end of the Hippodrome, snap some quick photos of the Fountain of Wilhelm II, the Obelisk of Tutmosis III (dating to 13th century B.C.), the bronze Serpentine Column and the Magnetic Column or the Walled Obelisk.

The Fountain of Wilhelm II was built in Germany and assembled in Istanbul in 1895. 

3. Blue tiles = Blue Mosque

Now, you must get in line to see the inside of Sultanahmet's most visited mosques - the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii). Pay attention to the times of ezan (Muslim call to prayer) because the mosque closes to visitors during that time for about an hour. Mid-day and late afternoon are two times to avoid, but the ezan changes from day to day according to the sunrise and sunset.

Even Turkish cats enjoy sunny themselves by the Blue Mosque.

Dating back to 1609, the Blue Mosque gets its nickname from the abundant use of decorative Iznik tiles in many shades of blue and green. The tiles feature traditional Ottoman patterns of lillies, lale (tulips, which is my favorite) and carnations.

4. Playing in the Palace

Around 11 a.m., you should find yourself heading toward the Topkapı Sarayı (Topkapi Palace). If you are lucky, very lucky, you will see the infamous green parakeets up in the trees in Gülhane Park before you enter the palace's gates.

You can run through this sprawling palace and the harem in just under 2 hours. I've been there three times now in the past year and have yet to see the palace kitchen! I don't understand why it's always closed. Frankly, the harem is my favorite part, and I'm disappointed you can't pay an admission solely for this section.

One of the many ornate areas inside the Topkapi Palace's harem section. 

5. Lunch is served!

It's probably getting close to 1 p.m. and your stomach is rumbling. One of my favorite lunch spots is back by the tram, Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta, Divanyolu Cad. No. 12. Since 1920, this köftecisi has been serving up moist and delicious meatballs. Ask for a side of spicy red sauce and some rice pilaf. Sometimes, I share a side salad with friends too.

6. Cool down underground

After a satisfying lunch, stroll over to the nearby 1,400-year-old Yerebatan Sarnıcı (Sunken Cistern or also known as the Basilica Cistern). Take about 30-45 minutes to snap photos of the 300+ columns and of course, the eerie Medusa heads at the end.

7. Bartering time

2 p.m. at the Grand Bazaar - In order to do the bazaar quickly, you basically need to know what you want to buy before you enter in this crazy maze. You also need help if you want to navigate the 4,000+ shops, 24 hans and numerous streets in and surrounding the bazaar. Most tourists don't have the time or language skills (luckily I have some Turkish skills), so you may consider hiring an Istanbul Personal Shopper like Kathy.

If you have room in your suitcase, you might want to buy one of these
 Turkish lamps at the Grand Bazaar.

At this point, we had a little over 2 hours to go, so we stopped at some of my favorite shops with Hugh's list in hand. We were on a mission to buy gifts for his wife, sister, mother and other family members. We chatted with the shopkeepers, enjoyed our complimentary çay, and our friend bought pashminas, evil eye knick knacks, jewelry, pistachios and a backgammon set.

8. One last stop

Congratulations! You survived a jam-packed day in Sultanahmet!

Even though it's 5 p.m., if you have time, make one last pit stop at Eminönü via the tram. Go inside the Spice Bazaar and say hello to my friend Bilgi at Ucuzcular. She has the most amazing spices and a peppy attitude!

End your busy day back by the Bosphorus and take some photos of the fishermen by the Galata Bridge.

There are plenty of restaurants under the Galata Bridge if you want to
 relax and enjoy the view with your beer.

Now, it's almost time for dinner and you have certainly earned yourself an Efes beer or two!

(Note: If you are visiting Istanbul during peak tourist season, such as the summer, I doubt this schedule will work for you. However, maybe it will serve as a rough guide of Sultanahet. We didn't have to wait in long lines since it was October, and I knew exactly where to go.)

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2011: Top 10 Turkish Christmas Gifts

My Christmas shopping did not involve last-minute trips to an overcrowded mall or waiting in line to buy the new must-have toy at some megastore.

No way!

This year, just like last year, all of our gifts for our family and friends are from our travels in Turkey and a few from Singapore. I’m proud to promote Turkey as much as I can, and I’d much rather buy a gift that means something than the typical commercial rubbish.

It probably would come as no surprise that many of our Christmas gifts are related to food. So here’s a rundown of the many handcrafted, beautiful and edible items you can bring back from Istanbul like I did.

Hopefully, our family members, who may be reading this, won’t figure out what they are getting for Christmas this year!

1.       Lokum (Turkish Delights) and Baklava – Fortunately, we live near Güllüoğlu Baklavacı , and I bought a few boxes right before I left Istanbul. Lokum is a sweet, chewy confection made from sugar and starch. This treat comes in a variety of fruit flavors and traditional rose and is usually studded with nuts. This new box I picked up was pomegranate flavored – my seasonal favorite – and dredged in coconut flakes! I highly recommend it!

2.       Candied chestnuts – On many street corners in Istanbul, vendors sell freshly roasted/grilled chestnuts from their small, portable stands. Chestnuts also are shelled, cooked and cooled down in a sugary syrup like the ones in this jar, pictured. These can be found at  Güllüoğlu Baklavacı  and other high-end pastry shops in Istanbul.

3.       Dried spices and teas – If you enjoy cooking or have cooks on your Christmas list, then you must include a visit to the Mısır Çarşısı. This is one of my favorite culinary spots in all of Istanbul. My friends over at Ucuzcular, No. 51, always have what I need, and they seal the plastic bags for traveling; or you can order online and have them shipped home.

4.       Tavla (backgammon) – If you know anyone who likes to play this fun game, this is a great gift to barter for at the Grand Bazaar. I brought a dark-stained walnut wood one back for a friend in NY that also featured checkers on one side. Jason and I often enjoy playing tavla while enjoying a glass of Efes in Istanbul.

5.       Turkish towels – Turkish towels can be found at many shops, but for the best quality and service you must stop at Jennifer’s Hamam at the Arasta Bazaar behind the Ayasofya or Stephanie’s Home Spa near the Galata Tower. Both stores are owned by a Canadian and an American woman, respectively. Jennifer’s shop also features a nice selection of bath robes, duvet covers and more while Stephanie features towels and olive oil soap.

6.       Turkish olive oil and olives – From our August trip to Cunda Adası, we picked up several bottles of fresh Turkish extra virgin olive oil and jars of olives. I kept a few bottles for myself, but some lucky family members will be getting some soon.

7.       Olive wood cheese trays and bowls – Speaking of olives, I recently found these adorable cheese trays and small bowls made from olive wood sold at Kurşat, Şakayik Sokak No. 57/1, in Nişantaşı in Istanbul. This family-owned shop also features high-quality olive oil and olives from the Ayvalık region. I liked these trays so much that I bought one of each for our own home.

I love these! They also are reasonably priced at 10 tl for the boards and 7.50 tl for the bowls.

 8.       Pashminas – Last year, I bought several of the pashminas for the women on our Christmas list. These can be found everywhere all over Istanbul.

9.       Jewelry – At the Grand Bazaar, you can find many stalls that sell gold, silver, beaded and evil-eye themed jewelry. I prefer to pop into the Old Bedestan area, especially to see my friend Selim at no. 218/219. His selection is impeccable! Every time I do stop in, I can’t resist buying a pair of earrings for myself!

10.    T-shirts – This is always an easy gift to get for my friends’ children, cousins and even some of the male adults on our list. It’s hard to bring back Turkish gifts for guys so T-shirts seem to be a good option, and they pack well in suitcases.

Other popular gifts on my list are ceramics, specifically from Tarik Bey at the Çukur Han in the Grand Bazaar, and books about Turkey and Istanbul. Since my dad’s health doesn’t allow him to travel anymore, I bought him a book showing him all the beautiful and historic sites in Istanbul. This way he can still "travel."

For more gift ideas, please check out my friends over at Turkeys for Life. They recently wrote a great post about this same topic.

Even if you can’t visit Istanbul before Christmas, you can use this handy gift guide for future trips to my second “home.”

Happy shopping!
Joy

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