Showing posts with label Sultanahmet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sultanahmet. Show all posts

Thursday, June 22, 2017

Y is for Yerebatan Saray Sarnıçı in Istanbul

Hidden beneath the historical area of Sultanahmet in Istanbul is one of my favorite sites to show visitors, especially during the hot summer months.

After walking down a few flights of somewhat slippery steps, you’ll find yourself in what is commonly known as the Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıç in Turkish) because it lays beneath the Stoa Basilica, a grand Byzantine public square. The cistern also is called the Sunken Palace Cistern (Yerebatan Saray Sarnıçı) because of its gorgeous 336 Byzantine marble columns and impressive size – nearly 9,800 square meters (2.4 acres)!

Did you know that this dark chamber has the capacity to hold near 80,000 cubic meters of water (21 million US gallons) of water?

In fact, when Istanbul was Constantinople, hundreds of Byzantine cisterns were located underneath the old city and were used to store fresh water. The Ottomans used the Yerebatan to supply fresh water to the Topkapı Palace. You can still find a few cisterns around Sultanahmet that are used in restaurants or simply forgotten about.

The Yerebatan Cistern is the perfect retreat from Istanbul’s sweltering summer days. The cavernous room is cool and dark, lit only by lights along the elevated pathway and to illuminate some of the columns. Water droplets of condensation fall down on you as you’re exploring this underground treasure.
I also always imagined that the cistern would be the perfect location to fill a horror movie as well!
Did you that one of the old James Bond movies was filmed in the cistern? Not too long ago, I had to rewatch From Russia With Love especially the scene when Bond is seen rowing a small boat between the cistern’s columns?

When you visit the Yerebatan Cistern, don’t forget to look for the mysterious Medusa-like head as well!

I’m linking this post to the monthly A-Z travel guide link up organized by Fiona, a fellow Australian blogger, at Tiffin Bite Sized Food Adventures. Each month features a new letter of the alphabet. This month is the letter “Y.” Please pop on over to Fiona’s blog to read more travel stories or feel free to link up your own!

TIFFIN - bite sized food adventures -
My Traveling Joys

Thursday, March 28, 2013

If you want to see tulips and historical buildings in the same frame, go to Sultanahmet now.

Earlier this week, I had to run some errands in the Sultanahmet area. Luckily, I grabbed my good camera as I was heading out the door.

The springtime tulips I shared the other week on My Turkish Joys Facebook page are now fully open. I’ve also heard from a friend that many of the tulips in Emirgan Korusu (Park) are blooming as well. Normally, April is the peak time for Istanbul’s tulips, but it looks like everything is blooming a bit earlier this spring.

When I was by the Blue Mosque, I had to crouch down low so I could get the pastel tulips in the same frame as the mosque. 
Of course as I was doing so, I had two cute street kitties wander into the photos. I can’t resist taking photos of the abundant Istanbul street cats as seen here in the Çukurcuma neighborhood.
I almost wish I could be chilling about in the grass and flowers like this cat.
Here are a couple more tulip photos from my outing. Enjoy!
Another view of the Blue Mosque and tulips from the Hippodrome area.

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

For the past two days, it has snowed nearly nonstop in Istanbul.

I'm beginning to feel like I live back in Nebraska again!

Did I mention I don't really like snow?

Well, the snow does look pretty at times, but I don't like really having to get out and about in the city when it's like this. The traffic gets even worse than it usually is.

Yesterday afternoon, I donned my snow boots and delivered a fresh batch of pastries to my favorite coffeeshop, Denizen Coffee, in Sultanahmet. This gave me the opportunity to see what the Old City looked like once again covered in snow.

I've walked by the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya hundreds of time, but these historic sites look even more majestic when blanketed with a layer of snow.

Have a look for yourself at my Instagram photos in this post! Oh, and you can find me on Instagram @myturkishjoys. I often post photos here from around Istanbul and my travels in Turkey.

What do you think of these snowy photos?
Selling roasted chestnuts in the snow in the Hippodrome in Sultanahmet.
Fountain in front of the Blue Mosque in the Sultanahmet Square.
Firuz Ağa Camii near the tramway in Sultanahmet.
Blue Mosque covered in snow - the only non-Instagram photo.
Black bird and a ferry boat in snowy Kabataş.
The sun briefly peaked out over the snow-covered Hippodrome in Sultanahmet.
Pigeons enjoying the snow in Sultanahmet.
Here, you can see how gusty it really was in Sultanahmet.
Buses and roasted chestnut sellers in the snow in Kabataş.
Another ferry boat docked at Kabataş.
Other snowfall blog posts during the past two years:

Monday, April 16, 2012

Near our apartment here in central Istanbul, I can hear baby birds chirping.

Everywhere, in this bustling city that I love, are signs of new beginnings.

This weekend, I saw several kittens and two roly-poly little puppies. I couldn't resist playing with these fluff-ball puppies for several minutes.

But what I can't get enough of are the tulips, primroses, pansies and daisies planted throughout Istanbul. You'll see flowers next to trees, in window boxes, in the middle of congested highway medians and near metro stations and offices. Anywhere there's a patch of dirt, you'll likely find some bright blossoms.
Daisies are one of my favorite flowers!
I really must commend the city on the multitude of flowers planted everywhere.
I recently took a stroll through Sultanahmet and snapped some photos in Gülhane Park. This historical park, located near the Topkapı Palace, used to be part of the palace's outer garden. Some of the trees still date back to the 1800s. It really is lovely right now!
A soft carpet of pastel primroses in  Gülhane Park.
As you're sauntering around Sultanahmet, take a few extra minutes to stroll through Gülhane Park.
Here are a couple photos from my outing. Enjoy!
One of the entrances to Gülhane Park, which is near the Gülhane tramway stop.
Street dog resting in the flowers.
Man also resting near (not in) the flowers.


Friday, April 6, 2012

Every time, I have visitors I fall in love all over again with Istanbul!

I'm spending my days showing off this wonderful city to my American cousins, who currently live in Switzerland. I sometimes surprise myself with all the historical tidbits I've learned here and now share with others. And I used to hate studying history 101 in college!

When you have visitors, they offer you a different perspective on where you live. They notice different things. They are intrigued, excited by and even jealous of things your city has or offers.

For example, my youngest cousin loved watching the jelly fish in the Bosphorus. Sometimes, it really is the little things in life.

Off to enjoy another beautiful day in Istanbul! This time, I'm packing my sunscreen.
Ayasofya at dusk in Istanbul
Blue Mosque at dusk in Istanbul

Thursday, February 2, 2012


Surviving Istanbul's worst winter in 30+ years

Dressed in three layers of tights, two woolen hats and one winter coat, yesterday I ventured into Sultanahmet with my camera.

I wanted to take some photos of Istanbul's most-visited historical buildings covered in a white veil of snow. This was the quietest I have ever seen Sultanahmet!
The Ayasofya covered in snow!
Apparently, I still looked like a tourist and was stopped by several Turkish men while I treaded carefully on the snowy roads. No, I don't want to buy a carpet. I live in Istanbul, and I want to take pictures of the snow. Yes, the view is çok güzel.

The snow fell quickly. Then, it stopped, and the sun came out for awhile. But the snow would start up again and the wind would start blowing. In between, the snow coming down like dollops of  fluffy meringue, I snapped as many photos as I could.

Over by the Küçük Ayasofya Camii (Little Hagia Sophia Mosque), five young, local kids recruited me for a friendly snowball fight, and I built a small snowman for them. The oldest gal, about 12 years-old or so, spoke a little English and she told me they've never had so much snow to play in Istanbul.
These were some of playmates in the snow yesterday in Sultanahmet.
I enjoyed the snow and walking through the eerily quiet Sultanahmet, but I'd like the sun to come back please!
The quiet Hippodrome and the Blue Mosque in the background.
I loved the way the sun came out when I was on this colorful street.

Turkish pride by the Küçük Ayasofya Camii in Sultanahmet. 
Abandoned in Sultanahmet
Taking a break from the snowstorm at Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii. 
These kids were quite the hams for my camera.
Then, the sun came out again by the Blue Mosque.
Some local street workers put the finishing touch on this snowman near
the Sultanahmet tramvay.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012


In early January, I had a whole week to show off Istanbul to my friends. This was just enough time to give them a taste, a chance to fall in love with the city and a desire to return someday.

So, imagine only having 1 day - basically 8 daylight hours - to see as much as one could in this magnificent city that spans 2 continents. 

You might say it's impossible and certainly unfair. How can you see thousands of years of history in just 8 hours?

Well, I did it. 

In October, I put together a tight, organized schedule and showed my husband's colleague, Hugh, the top highlights in Sultanahmet in just 8 hours.

I proved it IS possible, but it's certainly not the way I recommend visiting Istanbul. Heck, even after 19 months of living here, I'm still discovering new areas and pieces of the city's history.
  
Here's how to visit Istanbul in 8 hours:

1. Arriving in Sultanahmet
9 a.m. - Take the convenient tram and get off at the Sultanahmet stop. Arrive at Ayasofya around 9 a.m. to avoid the long lines. The mega tour buses show up between 9:30 and 10 a.m. and the ticket line grows exponentially. Take 45 minutes to admire this beautiful church turned mosque turned museum. (Note: our recent guests spent two hours in awe and taking photos inside Ayasofya.)

Inside the Ayasofya - taken from the second floor.
2. Hippodrome area
10 a.m. - Walk across the square and through the Hippodrome area near the Blue Mosque. Try to imagine the rowdy chariot races, javelin games and other ancient practices that took place here.

Starting at the northern end of the Hippodrome, snap some quick photos of the Fountain of Wilhelm II, the Obelisk of Tutmosis III (dating to 13th century B.C.), the bronze Serpentine Column and the Magnetic Column or the Walled Obelisk.
The Fountain of Wilhelm II was built in Germany and assembled in Istanbul in 1895. 
3. Blue tiles = Blue Mosque
Now, you must get in line to see the inside of Sultanahmet's most visited mosques - the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii). Pay attention to the times of ezan (Muslim call to prayer) because the mosque closes to visitors during that time for about an hour. Mid-day and late afternoon are two times to avoid, but the ezan changes from day to day according to the sunrise and sunset.
Even Turkish cats enjoy sunny themselves by the Blue Mosque.
Dating back to 1609, the Blue Mosque gets its nickname from the abundant use of decorative Iznik tiles in many shades of blue and green. The tiles feature traditional Ottoman patterns of lillies, lale (tulips, which is my favorite) and carnations.
4. Playing in the Palace
Around 11 a.m., you should find yourself heading toward the Topkapı Sarayı (Topkapi Palace). If you are lucky, very lucky, you will see the infamous green parakeets up in the trees in Gülhane Park before you enter the palace's gates.

You can run through this sprawling palace and the harem in just under 2 hours. I've been there three times now in the past year and have yet to see the palace kitchen! I don't understand why it's always closed. Frankly, the harem is my favorite part, and I'm disappointed you can't pay an admission solely for this section.
One of the many ornate areas inside the Topkapi Palace's harem section. 
5. Lunch is served!
It's probably getting close to 1 p.m. and your stomach is rumbling. One of my favorite lunch spots is back by the tram, Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta, Divanyolu Cad. No. 12. Since 1920, this köftecisi has been serving up moist and delicious meatballs. Ask for a side of spicy red sauce and some rice pilaf. Sometimes, I share a side salad with friends too.

6. Cool down underground
After a satisfying lunch, stroll over to the nearby 1,400-year-old Yerebatan Sarnıcı (Sunken Cistern or also known as the Basilica Cistern). Take about 30-45 minutes to snap photos of the 300+ columns and of course, the eerie Medusa heads at the end.
7. Bartering time
2 p.m. at the Grand Bazaar - In order to do the bazaar quickly, you basically need to know what you want to buy before you enter in this crazy maze. You also need help if you want to navigate the 4,000+ shops, 24 hans and numerous streets in and surrounding the bazaar. Most tourists don't have the time or language skills (luckily I have some Turkish skills), so you may consider hiring an Istanbul Personal Shopper like Kathy.
If you have room in your suitcase, you might want to buy one of these
 Turkish lamps at the Grand Bazaar.
At this point, we had a little over 2 hours to go, so we stopped at some of my favorite shops with Hugh's list in hand. We were on a mission to buy gifts for his wife, sister, mother and other family members. We chatted with the shopkeepers, enjoyed our complimentary çay, and our friend bought pashminas, evil eye knick knacks, jewelry, pistachios and a backgammon set.

8. One last stop
Congratulations! You survived a jam-packed day in Sultanahmet!

Even though it's 5 p.m., if you have time, make one last pit stop at Eminönü via the tram. Go inside the Spice Bazaar and say hello to my friend Bilgi at Ucuzcular. She has the most amazing spices and a peppy attitude!
End your busy day back by the Bosphorus and take some photos of the fishermen by the Galata Bridge.
There are plenty of restaurants under the Galata Bridge if you want to
 relax and enjoy the view with your beer.
Now, it's almost time for dinner and you have certainly earned yourself an Efes beer or two!

(Note: If you are visiting Istanbul during peak tourist season, such as the summer, I doubt this schedule will work for you. However, maybe it will serve as a rough guide of Sultanahet. We didn't have to wait in long lines since it was October, and I knew exactly where to go.)


Friday, January 20, 2012


If you enjoy trying new Turkish wines and eating cheese, then this is the deal for you.

Every Friday, usually only during the winter months, the Four Seasons Hotel in the Sultanahmet district of Istanbul offers a wine and cheese tasting. This lovely event offers you the chance to try different Turkish wines while noshing on a splendid display of cheeses and olives. Now, this is my idea of a good time!

Earlier this month, we made a reservation and took our U.S. friends to the Four Seasons' wine tasting event. We've been before and enjoyed ourselves silly so much so a taxi was required to get home instead of the nearby tram.

When the four of us went, we tried a wine flight featuring a white, one rose and two reds produced by Büyülübağ. This Turkish wine producer apparently is known for its Bordeaux-style wines. We certainly favored the cabernet sauvignon, which has won some international awards according to the company's website.
The four wines we tasted at the Four Seasons in Sultanahmet. Of course, you can ask for refills on your favorite ones.
Just like the wine-producing island of Bozcaada, Büyülübağ was founded, by Alp Törüner, on another Turkish island, called Avşa Adası (Avşa Island), located in the southern Sea of Marmara. The winery is located in the middle of the vineyards and can produce up to 200,000 liters of wine a year. Sounds like we need another road trip! (Has anyone been here?)

There also was a wine rep from Büyülübağ that stopped by our table. At least I was able to tell her in Turkish which wines we liked more and that the wine was "çok güzel."

In addition to the wines, we filled ourselves up on the bountiful cheeses, jams and Turkish olives.
The cheese buffet included about 12 different kinds of cheeses. I was in heaven!
 I especially enjoyed sampling a rather spicy cheese curd from the Hatay/Antakya region called Çökelek served in a rosemary Turkish olive oil bath. Yum!
Please excuse the blurry photo from my phone - at least you can see what the spicy cheese curds
look like. At first, we thought this was a bowlful of meatballs! =)
Afiyet olsun!

For your own fun Turkish wine and cheese night, you must make reservations by calling 0212 402 3156. Cost is 40 TL per person for the wine flight and open cheese buffet.

Each week, the Four Seasons in Sultanahmet features a wine flight from a different producer, grape or region.

We found Büyülübağ wine available at:

La Cave, Kılıçali Paşa Mah., Sıraselviler Caddesi no. 109, Cihangir

Sensus Wine & Cheese Boutique, Büyükhendek Caddesi No. 5 Kuledibi, near the Galata Tower