Monday, January 12, 2015

Do you think you would find really good sushi in the land of Polish pierogies?

Well, yes, you can find good sushi in Warsaw! And last week, I even learned how to make sushi from a Japanese master sushi chef!

If you love Japanese food and haven't taken a sushi-making class, then you are missing out. Thanks to my girlfriends through the International Women’s Group of Warsaw, they organized a special sushi-making class with the chef/owner of Izumi Sushi, Alon Thon. Thon and his Polish wife, Alicja, own three sushi restaurants in Warsaw, and she writes a blog called FoodFashion. He recently competed in the World Sushi Cup in Japan as well. 

Chef Alon Thon spent seven years working and learning how to make sushi in Tokoyo. He told us that he got lucky and started learning how to prepare sushi right away instead of washing the dishes for two years, a job many apprentices usually do. In 2003, he moved to Poland, and in 2006, the couple opened their first restaurant. In 2009, they opened the largest sushi restaurant in Poland called Izumi Sushi Biały Kamień located in the Mokotow neighborhood.
Imagine being surrounded by lush vines, tropical plants and 100-year-old palm trees, learning how to make sushi from an expert and chatting with friends. This was the perfect activity to beat the winter blues! The Biały Kamień restaurant is located in a pre-World War II orangery/greenhouse and feels like you are almost in a jungle. I had no idea this place existed, but I’ll definitely be returning…soon!
Chef Alon Thon told us to lay down the nori first and then lightly press the sushi rice on top of the nori in order to make the maki-sushi (the normal rolls). Then, we could choose from either butterfish, crab, tuna or salmon and then add lettuce, avocado, shitake mushrooms and other pickled vegetables. However, you can’t add too many ingredients or the rolls are more difficult to roll. Rolling the sushi was the most difficult thing at first, but I got the hang of it after making a few maki rolls.
Chef Alon Thon was very patient with us and is obviously very passionate about sushi.
Look at all the sushi I made!
I was impressed with the quality of fish we used. Thon told us he gets special fish deliveries flown in every week. I don’t cook fish very often because I don’t like cod or carp, which are the main fishes you’ll find here. Salmon is the safer option.

We also learned to make sushi rolls with tempura shrimp and baked salmon topped with a teriyaki sauce. Lastly, we learned how to make uramkai-sushi, which is the inside-out style where the rice is on the outside and sprinkled with sesame seeds and the nori is on the inside with the other ingredients. I think this was the trickier one to roll up.
We ended our sushi-making class with a glass of delicious homemade green tea ice cream accompanied with hot green tea. What a treat!
Luckily, I brought my extra sushi home so hubby got to try as well. Now, he has high expectations that he’ll be getting sushi at home on a regular basis. Hah!
The group of us learning how to make sushi in Warsaw.

Note: Izumi Sushi also coordinates children’s birthday parties as well as the sushi-making classes.

Friday, January 9, 2015

As the winter winds howl outside our apartment windows, I’m thinking back to warmer days when I was wearing a t-shirt and skirt and scampering around a Polish castle.

Can you believe that Poland has more than 200 castles?

In June, I took our grandparents to visit one of these castles called Zamek Ogrodzieniec, which is located about 3 ½ hours southwest of Warsaw on the way toward Krakow and along the Trail of the Eagles' Nests. There are several 14th-century castles along this trail, built by order of the King of Poland Kazimierz the Great, and aptly named because they are located on gigantic limestone cliffs and tall rock formations.
Luckily, I brought my tripod so I could pose with grandma and grandpa for a photo. 
Zamek Ogrodzieniec is the largest castle of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland and built on the Góra Zamkowa, the Upland’s highest hill at 515 meters above sea level. The Upland (also known as the Polish Jura) consists of a hilly landscape with Jurassic period limestone rocks, cliffs and more than 200 caves. It borders the Carpathian Mountains to the south, the highland of Central Poland to the north and the Świętokrzyskie Mountains.

These limestone rock formations make the castle ruins look even more picturesque. I bet the castle looks even more stunning when the skies are blue and the sun is shining.

However, Grandma and Grandpa took one look at the rocky castle and said they would wait for me down below while I scampered around. I didn’t want to leave them alone for too long so I took about 30 minutes to explore the castle and take some photos. I didn’t even tell them that the castle is supposed to be haunted.
Like most of the Polish castles we’ve seen so far, Zamek Ogrodzieniec is a restored ruin with crumbling brick walls. The castle had many owners starting in the 14th century, but met its ultimate destruction thanks to the Swedes between 1655 and 1702. Restoration works and repairs were still happening during our June visit.
The only thing I was disappointed in was seeing all the kitschy souvenir stands selling wooden swords and cheap princess dresses, set up inside the castle. They detracted from the historic atmosphere. I would be fine with having the stalls set up just outside the castle’s walls.
I'm sure your child will want of these wooden swords sold from these souvenir stands. 
If you want to visit Zamek Ogrodzieniec, unfortunately, you must wait until April 1st when the castle reopens. And if you time your visit on Sundays, between May and September, the castle hosts a live show performed by the Brotherhood of the Knights. The castle also hosts regular ghost tours during the summer nights.

I didn’t see any knights in shining armor or ghosts, but I did have a pleasant time at Zamek Ogrodzieniec.
Here's a map of the Polish castles located along the Trail of the Eagles' Nests and some information in Polish.
Location:
Zamek Ogrodzieniec
ul. Kościuszki 66
Ogrodzieniec, Poland
Admission: 10 zl adults

I linked up this blog post to the #bloghop co-hosted by Danielle at The Unfinished Blog, whom I had the pleasure of meeting in Helsinki in November. Hop on over to meet other bloggers!

We Took the Road Less Traveled

Friday, January 2, 2015

Well, Warsaw is kicking off 2015 with some truly dreadful weather – cloudy, blustery and rainy.

The wind is blowing so violently that I think the Turkish lodos has arrived here just like for my friends back in Istanbul.

A few days ago, before this fowl weather arrived, I took a stroll to the nearby Krasiński Park (Ogród Krasińskich), home to Krasiński Palace (Pałac Krasińskich) and a wonderful park. Snow still covered the frozen ground so I wanted to take some photos before it all melted. I arrived about mid-afternoon just as the sun was setting and casting a cheery, golden glow throughout the park.
Though I had planned on arriving earlier so the snow wouldn’t look so gray in my photos, I’m still rather pleased with these photos.

The ducks and “flying ponies” didn’t seem to mind me or the snow either.


Happy New Year!

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

It’s probably no surprise that the majority of our travels and even our normal day-to-day lives revolve around food.

That’s what happens when you’re married to a pastry chef and love food, at least that’s what I tell my husband.

This year, we did quite a bit of traveling in Europe and ate well along the way. From the backstreets of Istanbul to cozy brasseries and from eating at Michelin-starred restaurants to dining at home with friends, we’ve had a lot of good meals. I’d rather spend the money on a wonderful meal than on something with less value to me like jewelry or new clothes.

The following destinations are where we had some of our Best Meals in 2014! Where did you have your favorite meal this year? I’d love to know!

Bon appétit!
Joy

In March, we spent a long, leisurely weekend in Lake Como and ended with a home-cooked, four-course dinner at Osteria Sali e Tabacchi, a cozy, Slow Food restaurant located in Mandello del Lario. Eating here was like being invited into an Italian’s mother’s home where local ingredients are key. A few of the dishes I remember: local fish in two dishes, cured Italian meats for an antipasti, braised beef with polenta, pumpkin-filled ravioli and homemade pistachio gelato. Be sure to make reservations in advance!
I never thought I’d have a good steak dinner in Istanbul, but in March our Turkish friend, Huseyin, proved me wrong. Our meal at Nusr-Et Steakhouse consisted of lokum (Turkish delight), spaghetti (thinly sliced beef), sliced-to-order lamb ribs, unlimited crispy fries and a salad. The meat used comes from the Marmara Sea region and was quite tender and juicy.
And for dessert, don’t skimp on the pistachio baklava that is flown in fresh every day from Gaziantep and served tableside with a generous scoop of Maras dondurma. My mouth is watering just thinking about this heavenly baklava!
In May, we spent my birthday in Paris. I had My Delicious Day in Paris and then later we went to Au Pied de Cochon for French oysters and dinner. This wasn’t our best meal ever in Paris, but it’s more that this brasserie holds a special place in our hearts. We first ate here in 2009 right after my now husband had proposed.
In July, I followed hubby on his business trip to London. We arrived two days early so we could enjoy ourselves and have a good meal at St. John Bread & Wine, which we first had visited in 2010. The standouts here were the foie gras on toast (I love foie!), roasted duck leg with peas and bacon and an appetizer of salt beef hash with a fried duck egg on top. All delicious! The only miss was the too-tart gooseberry pavlova for dessert.
In August, we sadly bid farewell to our fun Aussie friends with a fancy dinner at the new Senses Restaurant. This was our most expensive meal of the year at 380pln ($125) per person, but this doesn’t include the bottle of champagne and post dinner drinks we shared. You can tell that the French-Italian chef, Andrea Camastra, likes to play with molecular gastronomy here with the foams, jellies and smoke used throughout our multi-course dinner.

Our first courses included tuna with lard and corn, beetroot with goat cheese and foie gras and smoked eel with a scallop, celeriac and potato puree, which was my least favorite dish.
Next courses were a monkfish goulash with beans, kobe beef ribs with cherries and spring onions and a yogurt dessert with fresh “forest fruits.” I loved all of these dishes and wish I had more of the beef dish!
Overall, Senses definitely was an interesting experience, but I could have done without the chocolate-beet drink and some of the hocus-pocus smoke. The best part of this meal was spending another fun night with our good friends before we said goodbye!
 
Tallinn
In November, we enjoyed our best meal in Tallinn (as part of our Baltic road trip) at a cozy restaurant called Salt Restoran, tucked in the residential neighborhood of Kadriorg. It's headed by local chef Silver Saa who focuses on using seasonal ingredients, which seems to be the trend everywhere.  We ordered the seared scallops with wakame, pumpkin cream and ginger beurre blanc, a not-so classic beef tartar, veal cheeks with red wine sauce and grilled endive and crispy duck breast with roasted beetroots, plum jam and sherry sauce. I had a difficult time sharing my veal cheeks because they were irresistibly tender and delicious!
For dessert, we shared a chocolate cake with salted caramel and the pumpkin cream (panna cotta?) with cocoa.
The total meal cost was 108 euros ($132), which included a 26eu ($32) bottle of red wine and 2 glasses of Spanish cava at 6eu ($7.30) each, making it our most expensive meal on this trip. However, I feel like Salt was definitely a restaurant worth seeking out!

At the end of November, we celebrated Thanksgiving in Düsseldorf, Germany. Before stuffing ourselves with turkey, JT took us to Manima Der Laote, a restaurant owned by his friend that specializes in Laotian food. The chef/owner greeted us and he instantly reminded me of NYC chef David Chang, owner of Momofuku. I knew we were in good hands! The highlights of this meal were the very spicy green papaya salad and minced duck meat served with lettuce leaves and sticky rice.
San Sebastian 
This coastal, Spanish city is all about the pintxos! With so many good restaurants to choose from, you really can’t go wrong here. We had to escape from the drunken crowds of the Santo Tomas Festival on December 21st so we went to the Gros neighborhood across the river. Here, we got our pintxos on at Bergara Bar, a local place recommended by our pension owner. We liked this place because we could actually sit down, it was quiet enough to where we could actually converse and the food was delicious and fresh.

We ordered mushroom risotto with foie gras ( my favorite), Spanish tortilla with roasted red peppers, a croquette, a seafood “tin can” and a few other items. Bergara Bar was a great recommendation!
Southwest France
We ended 2014 with a road trip through Southwest France and enjoyed several outstanding, homecooked meals with our French friend’s families. I’m so grateful for this expat life that allows us to travel, to meet new people and to enjoy new experiences together. The French families went all out with their hospitality and with course after course of decadent food for the Christmas season.
Just some of the courses from our French meals on December 23, 24 and 25th.
Christmas part II on December 26th.
After eating like this for four days in a row, I felt like a fat French saucisson! I'm thankful to our friends, but I still feel fat!

I might have to kick off 2015 with a bit of dieting after all these trips!

Monday, December 29, 2014

Strolling through the decked out streets of Warsaw’s Old Town feels magical during the Christmas season.

The city transforms its historically-restored Old Town into a Christmas wonderland complete with an ice skating rink guarded by a mermaid, a decent Christmas market (finally!) and plenty of stalls selling hot chocolate and mulled wine to keep you warm.
Before we traveled for the recent holidays, I grabbed my camera and visited the Old Town a couple of times in Warsaw. Pretty much, any time, after 3 p.m. is a good time as the sun sets and the twinkling lights start to light up the dark skies. It’s a pretty sight to behold, but I’ll let my photos mainly do the talking.
This year’s Christmas Market, located near the Royal Castle, will be open daily through January 6th, which is celebrated as a national, religious holiday here known as Święto Trzech Króli to honor the Three Wise Men. There’s another market being held at the National Stadium, but I haven’t been there because this location seems like an odd choice and lacks the charm that the Old Town has.
I picked up several handmade Christmas decorations, a wooden cheese plate made by a Lithuanian craftsman and some of the infamous Zakopane cheese at the Old Town’s market.

It’s worth stopping by in you’re visiting Warsaw or if you live here and haven’t made it by yet. The Christmas lights seem to stay up well through January which help brighten the long, dark days of the Polish winter.
If you don’t speak Polish, good luck trying to pronounce Wesołych Świąt (Season’s Greetings or Merry Christmas). I still have a difficult time trying to say this!